When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I encountered a clutch problem while out in the mountains last week. My clutch was not fully disengaging causing all sorts of noise. It was intermittent with no rhyme or reason. Fortunately we were able to limp home. I had replaced the clutch, pressure plate, bearings etc. a few months ago. I investigated the master and slave cylinder. The fluid was black and there was a small leak at the reservoir. I replaced the master, slave and rubber hose and filled with fresh fluid. All OEM parts. Everything seems to be working just fine. Clutch is smoother than it has ever been. The fluid was filthy and full of rubber chunks, so the seals were shot.
Hey cascade, I had similar stuff going on with my 83 a few years back. I replaced everything like you did with Aisin parts, had chunks of rubber coming out of the fluid too. A few months later it started getting weak, so I bled the clutch again and got more chunks. Turned out the rubber was the liner in the soft line on the firewall. Just a heads up.
Hey cascade, I had similar stuff going on with my 83 a few years back. I replaced everything like you did with Aisin parts, had chunks of rubber coming out of the fluid too. A few months later it started getting weak, so I bled the clutch again and got more chunks. Turned out the rubber was the liner in the soft line on the firewall. Just a heads up.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I replaced the hose this time, will probably go with a stainless braided hose next time.
Finally took care of something that had been bugging me for some time. The throttle linkage was always a little cock eyed and sometimes would not always return all the way creating a high idle. A tap of the accelerator usually got it to settle down. I decided to take it apart and turns out the plastic bushings were non existent causing the bell crank to flop around and bind at certain positions. I could not find replacements so went with oil impregnated bronze flanged bushing from Grainger. Part number: 11Z264. It worked out great. Nice throttle response and it snaps back nice and smooth.
Big update time. I installed the Old Man Emu suspension package. Ended up with the heavy duty springs in the front and medium duty in the back. Originally had the heavy duty in the rear as well, but ended up taking a spring out-it was too tall and stiff. I used a procomp adjustable drop drag link. The stock link bumped into the u bolts. It works ok, hard to adjust it to get the steering wheel to center. I got it close and gave up. The alignment shop could not get it centered either. Also did new tie rod ends and got an alignment.
I cut the shackles off with a sawzall and carbide blade. Made quick work of that. The bolts were seized and would not budge. I cut the u bolts off with a grinder, same thing the nuts were rusted on tight.
Looks great. Out of curiosity, what bumpstops did you go with and how do you like them so far?
I believe those are the stock bump stops. At least that is what was on the truck. I just cleaned them up and put a coat of black paint on them. I haven't had a chance to fully test them. I'm way deep into a windshield channel repair and new floorpans.......
Hey Cascade, check out my album, I had to do the windshield flange and floor boards too...I was lucky enough to find a cab in Duvall that I was able to cut chunks out of the flange and the pillars and welded them back in. The guy also let me cut the floor out from rocker to rocker and I cut out the sections I needed. Was that you a couple of years ago that I gave break light housings or something to in Shoreline.
Hey Cascade, check out my album, I had to do the windshield flange and floor boards too...I was lucky enough to find a cab in Duvall that I was able to cut chunks out of the flange and the pillars and welded them back in. The guy also let me cut the floor out from rocker to rocker and I cut out the sections I needed. Was that you a couple of years ago that I gave break light housings or something to in Shoreline.
Hey 206yota, good score on the donor cab. Nice work putting it all back together. I bought a shrinker stretcher and have set about making my own replacement patches. Definitely a learning curve but I am making some progress. I started a thread over here to show my process and ask questions: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...cement-309335/
And no, you did not give me any tail lights, mine came from Taiwan.
Rear end update time. Brakes, bearings, seals and new gears!
I replaced the brake shoes and hardware. And had the drums resurfaced. Driver side had a broken spring and another missing! Parking brake bell cranks were seized up and inoperable. Everything had an extended soak in the parts washer. A little lube and the parking brake works great!
Also did the wheel bearings and put in new seals. The old ones were not leaking, but were pretty crusty looking. The bearings were ready for replacement. Went with Nachi bearings and Toyota seals.
I had developed some drivetrain noise especially on deceleration and coasting. I thought perhaps the pinion bearing was going out. Lacking the tools and time, I decided to send the differential to Zuk at gearinstalls.com. He broke it down and reinstalled new 4.88 nitro gears and Japanese bearings. Turned out the pinion bearing was ok. The coast depth was too deep. I highly recommend Zuk for any gear work you may need done. His prices are fair, communication outstanding and service was quick. He took tons of photos and documented everything in great detail. I'm sure I could have found a local shop but the documentation was worth it to me.
Old brakes Crusty old seal All rebuilt. New pads, springs, hardware and cylinders. New bearings New seal New gears Pattern Pattern Rebuild Specs All put back together!
This will be a two part post. I tackled the rotten floor pans due to a leaking windshield. The driver side was much worse than I had thought. The dynamat insulation was actually holding the floor together! It was a big project and am pleased with the outcome. It's not perfect by any means but it matches the rest of the truck.
First order of business was to remove the fenders and have a look at the cowl and area below. Rust on both sides near where the firewall meets the floor.
Rust
Rusty metal removed and ready for patching.
New 16ga metal welded in
Same situation on the passenger side
Condition of the driver's side floor. Gross.
Interior stripped.
I used dry ice to remove the remaining factory insulation. It worked like a charm. It did very little to the dynamat. For that I found the pulling the foil off first. Then heating with a heat gun and scraper to remove the bulk of it. Then went back over it with head and scraper. Then finally a wire wheel in the die grinder removed the final residue. It was very labor intensive but ultimately successful.
Patching the passenger side
Driver's side rust
Damaged area removed.
New 16ga sheet metal all welded in.
New seat brackets. 1x2 steel tube with reinforced mounting plates with tapped holes.
Epoxy primer and seam sealer applied to both top and bottom.
Interior got a coat of Rustoleum low gloss black tractor paint. Underside got several coats of spray on undercoating.
Awesome workmanship, that flooring looks great. I had to do the same for my seat tracks, as I had a lot of rust along the tracks for some reason. Congrats
Sep 28, 2019 | 06:38 PM
