So after i bought my 16" aluminum wheels (16x8's) i noticed they were REALLY heavy to be aluminum(they're for sure aluminum....not steel) althought they are lighter weight than my 15" steelies.

My buddy still has his stock 2006 Dodge 20" wheels, and they're LIGHTWEIGHT!!!!! super lightweight...and they're 4" bigger in diameter than my 16's...


i was just wondering if anyone knows of any Lightweight Aluminum wheels, mine might be Alloy's, like a mix of aluminum and steel, and his stocker's might be solid aluminum?

all i know is that i was thinking of getting some spacers with a different lugpattern so i could run his dodge wheels on my Toyota 4runner, just because they're THAT much lighter.

 

with roads in okc area you don't want light weight wheels i-40 going through downtown is a crater field I'll stick with my steels.

 

Could be the Toyota wheels are a cast aluminum alloy, while the Dodge rims might be forged:
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alloy_wheel

 

I've seen 6 lug Rays TE37 wheels before on yotas. I've got the 15" 4 lug ones on a car and they're something like 8.5 lbs. a 15" 6 lug version for our trucks would most likely weigh a lb or two more to take the extra weight but still very light. Any forged aluminum wheel is going to be lighter than a cast alloy. (and forged ain't cheap!)

 

AHH yes that is probably the reason...my 16's are Ultra's so they're Cast Alloy's...not forged.

i'd like to have a set of Ricer wheels on my 4runner, like Volks...but they're insanely expensive lol

 

Yes, I do. I own some. But, you got one thing right, they can be spendy. They're called 2-piece, or 3-piece, aluminum racing wheels. Many different kinds are sold, by many different companies. Some have cast aluminum centers, some have forged aluminum centers. All are very strong, and VERY lightweight compared to one-piece aluminum wheels.

I used to have some one-piece cast aluminum alloy 15x10 AR-39s, and they were pretty damn heavy. Solid as hell though, super tough wheels.

I recently bought some different used 15x10 aluminum wheels to replace them after they got jacked. I found out after buying these that they were 2-piece racing wheels with cast aluminum centers. That's not all good though, even though they're SUPER LIGHT, and I scored them SUPER CHEAP. Let me explain. Though they are very strong structurally, they are very prone to damage because the bolted-on piece(actually pieces, a front and rear piece welded together after being bolted on to make one-piece)that makes up the rim of the wheel is made of a relatively light gauge spun aluminum. Which is thin to save weight(~1/8"), and being spun metal is very malleable/ductile. So it's VERY easily bent when struck by a foreign object. On the flipside, it's VERY easily bent back though too. Basically, they're meant for the track not the trail. They would DEFINITELY not be optimal for hardcore rock crawling, or any hardcore wheeling, except stricly in the sand/snow/mud.

When I bought these ENKEI 15x10s they looked llike crap. All scratched and bent up around the edges from being wheeled. A pair of pliers and a couple cans of spray paint later...good as new(ish).

Front. Sprayed with gray hammered finish Rust-Oleum(then left out in the rain for 6 months).

Back. Sprayed with flat black.

 

If those Dodge wheels are the 'chrome clad' 20's, that a lot of them came with stock, they actually have a plastic face glued to the wheel. You can see the seam between the two pieces, where the wheel weights clip onto the outer edge on the face. Dodge also made nearly identical, all aluminum wheels for those same trucks.

 

yea His aren't the chrome clad ones..lol


my old AR outlaw IIs were pretty lightweight, i would steal them off of my '86 thats at the house...but they're 15's not 16's


That's interesting about the 2 and 3 piece wheels though thanks!!!!!

 

I got mine off CL for $250. They had some 33x12.5 Wildcat EXTs w/25% tread on 'em too.

ENKEIs aren't cheap. They were atleast $1200 new for sure, probably a little more.

 

How come you want light weight? strength is the way to go

 

they're plenty strong, i've seen more steel wheels get bent, than aluminum wheels break or crack

 

I agree. I didn't want lighter/weaker wheels, but that's what I got. I didn't even know what a 2-piece wheel was untill I got those home and checked 'em out closer.

But, I did get a real good deal on 'em. So I'll give 'em a go, and we'll see how long they last.

I'll always run aluminum wheels regardless though. Steel's not worth the extra weight. Cast aluminum is strong enough.

 

yea, we're not in heavy arse Diesel pickups....we're in Toyota's lol

 

Hey Mudhippy I just scored the same rims Enkei super light and yeah 2 piece... I was running centerlines but came across these for 200 with used 35s on them.. And for some reason there lighter then my centerlines on 33s.. Gonna try them out see how they do

 

Have you looked into a set of racelines the 17's I had were alot lighter than the 16" tacoma wheels I had.

 

I have actually been looking at Racelines, heard alot of good stuff about em!

 

The design of the wheel is more important to how much it weighs than whether it's cast or forged.

in fact, if the exact same wheel design was used and two wheels made to that design, one forged and one cast, the forged wheel would be heavier. This is because the forging process makes the metal more dense. The advantage to forged wheels is strength and ductility, not necessarily weight. Forged wheels are tougher and will typically bend before they'll crack. Cast wheels aren't as tough and more prone to cracking if damaged.

The Enkei RPF1 wheels I put on my Subaru are cast and are lighter than most forged wheels out there.

On my truck, I wouldn't be so concerned about weight. Strength is more important. A good, solid set of cast aluminum wheels will do me just fine.