I do have a pro comp 4” full spring lift on my 4Runner.

I did not have to use a body lift. Plenty of clearance for me.

I think the notched pan is for an IFS truck/4runner or one with the front cross member

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f162...03/index3.html

There is an ok pic I took from the passenger side wheel well of the oil pan front dif orientation. In post # 60 pic 9

 

First tank of diesel 26-26.5 MPG
2nd tank of diesel 23-24 driving like a mad man turned up the ALDA” no turned back to stock location.”
Just put the 3rd tank of diesel in.

I am going to try to drive good. But it is hard since I like to hear the turbo spool and I can’t get over the fact my ole ˟˟˟˟˟ box can go 80 +
Mixed in town and highway use no trail yet

 

We this alternator lasted around 120 miles?

No clue what the heck is going on.

All new cables from batter to alt positive and ground as well…

Stopped charging on the highway last night.

Belt is good and tight
Alignment is perfect

 

16 hole days

 

Does it have to do with operating rpm's?

 

No, most all gm 1 wire alternators need to at least be at 1000 RPM to excite the regulator once this is done it will keep charging until it stop rotation.

This last one would start charging once I hit the end of my block 500’ or so and keep charging until I shut it off.

Running down the highway last night it stopped charging .

 

That really sucks! I still think you have a curse, maybe see a priest? I've had bad luck with reman alt, starters etc and won't waste my money or my time having to pull/replace crap. I just buy oe or new parts now on. I swear every reman part I have used in the past has failed. If they are new, then you are just cursed......

 

dang... maybe put new brushes in it yourself this time... obviously the reman company is incapable.

 

1st one bearings
2nd not charge out of the box
3rd diodes went out

 

great thread, i really like the diesel. subscribed
what mpg are you expecting/getting?

 

i would like 30ish but i cant drive good for that long. i am hopping for 26-28 consistintly

 

I see around 27 steadily out of mine. I drive it pretty hard. I am hoping for that to increase when I rebuild the injectors.

 

Well I did so good for the first 200-250 miles but I could not drive like and old man anymore.
This last tank 26.6 MPG keep in mind I have 33x14.5x15 trusx tires and stock 4.10s

I am curious at what I will get with my plowing tires 234/75/15

The first half tank via the fuel gauge was 240. Before it hit the half tank mark

 

I am have started to convert my oil cooler lines to JIC fitting.
I had the hoses made up. and the oil cooler taped and now I am waiting on 2 more fitting to relocate my oil cooler.
I have a oil pressure gauge in my 3 gauge pillar but I also want a low oil light on the dash so If I blow a hose I am alerted right away to shut it down.

 

JIC is probably better. That's what we mainly use at AGCO. I think it would be less prone to failure in this position than an o-ring since o-rings get hard and brittle after many high heat cycles.

 

What kind of epoxy is that? How much was it to have the hoses built? Thanks

 

J B Weld the 2 hose and 4 adapter ends $176.00

 

HOLY CRAP!!! I got a brand new oil cooler and lines for that much. I got stainless braided 5/8" line and swivel 90 degree infinitely reusable ends so if I ever want to, I can cut the hose and just move the end to the new location. Did you get hydraulic lines with ends crimped on?

 

I had them use the best oil rated automotive high heat and pressure rated hose and crimped ends as well.
I believe the hoses where 50-52 a hose and the metric to JIC end adapters where 18-20 apiece.

The 2 adapters will turn and seal right into the Mercedes oil housing.

And the other 2 were put into the oil cooler after I drilled and tapped it.

 

I'm in the middle of this swap and the oil cooler lines are one of the last ?s on the list. My plan was to bring the mercedes lines to a hydraulic shop and have them replace the rubber section with a new longer section, depending on where I end up mounting the cooler. Is this possible, has anyone used this approach? No adapters needed, just rebuild the existing lines.