I just extended my lines with barb fittings and oil rated hose but im looking into replacing them with hydrolic hose from tractor supply so the parts are genaric and local.

 

Cut a slice In the metal collars from the stock hoses and remove the stock hoses, then you can replace the hose with 5/8 Lola hose and regular hose clamps. No need to go to hydraulic hoses and fittings as you will never see over 80 psi. Should cost about $40 for all of it.

 

some pics
Oil cooler mounted temporally until I put my plow on to see where it needs to be permanently

 

Nice hoses, where did you find the adapters to fit to the oil filter housing?

Thanks
Dmarsh

 

Kundinger fluid power in town here.

 

Lola? Never herd of it before. I used hose and fittings from tractor supply worked out good. 2 - 36" 1/2 npt hydrolic hoses were $16 a piece. 2- 3/8 npt to 1/2 npt for the filter housing to hyd line were $5 a piece. 2- 90* brass fittings and a small brass pipe to off set the lower hose to clear the motor mount $8 at home depot. Then 2- 1/2" barbed to 1/2" female fittings for the Cooler side $10 . So I'm at $60 and the hose is rated at 3500 psi. I do see an average of 90 psi on a cold start up and the gauge maxes out at over 100 psi during the winter. Ive tried a few combos of hoses with barbed fittings and have had 3 big blow outs so far always at the hose clamp (side facing away from the barbed fitting. Also reg hose is just not durable enough to be in the engine bay with all the vibration.

 

Lola is hydraulic return line,but I agree it is no where near durable enough to be in an engine bay. I can easily see 90psi on moderate acceleration on mine. I would never trust hose clamps to an oil line. I have a trashed block in the shop as proof of that.

 

I got my Autometer mini warning lights.

One for oil pressure and one for coolant temp

Now I just have to rework the thermostat housing for 2 sending units
And drill and tape the oil filter housing cover.

 

I will have to agree on the oil pressure as well. At start up I idle at 75-80 at running temp at idle 15-20 PSI at high way speeds 70-80 MPH I am between 70-95 PSI depending on how much my foot is in the pedal.

 

I am thinking of mounting the oil cooler mounted in the hood cooled by a hood scoop. And then send the air to cool the turbo as well?


Any thought ?

 

I think the air might be a little too warn to do any good for the turbo. But I have thought about the oil cooler in a hood scoop. So looking forward to what you come up with. Subi scoop would be cool.

 

Make it #4
Brand new not a remand

Ok another alternator shot in the A$$



WTF

 

Very busy weekend got a lot of things done and fixed.

Friday rebuilt the front solid axle due to leaking axle seals. Bought a marlin rebuild kit.
Saturday replaced drivers caliper and pads, clean and adjust the rear breaks
Sunday did the complete exhaust turbo back. all welded and heat wrapped front the turbo down about 34” to keep the heat soak from going into the oil pan.

It is to quite now all I hear is the tires going down the street.

 

front bumper

 

I like the swap so much I bought a second Mercedes

I picked up a full parts car
1985 Mercedes 300TD 122 K

For great price

 

only 122 K? Ill give you $600 for it.

 

sorry this om617 is for the land cruiser i want to build

 

oh cool... what land cruiser? if it's a 40 series or a 60 series i would really like to see the build up of that. after I get done with my current project I hope to build one of those two with a diesel. I'm really looking for a fj45 troopy but those are very hard to find here in the US.

 

I'm hopping an 80 (1995-2000)

 

that's a good choice too... I just personally really like the older stuff especially for expedition use.