Diesel Swaps Diesel engines

My OM617 inside build page

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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 04:51 AM
  #81  
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Be careful to make sure you get as much of the oil line coming from the oil filter housing to the gauge in the dash.

Also get the oil cooler and line as well…


Do not try to take off the lines you most likely will strip them. Take it out as a hole assembly. If the threads do get buggered up I found a fix online to repair the threads.

Is you have to buy an aftermarket OE oil cooler you will pay 400-800 dollars.

I will be using an aftermarket one once I am happy with the swap. I just don’t wat to spend the extra 300-400 on the good one until I am %100 happy with the turn out.
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 04:58 AM
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Well I filled up the tank Wednesday, and an average is 26 MPG between city and highway driving. I have a heavy foot and I am driving it like I stole it “ kind of”

I am having a hard time keeping my foot out of the engine bay. On this tank I will try to keep the pedal of the floor, but I still am liking the sound of the turbo spooling as I am accelerating.

I have also read if you keep your boost below 3-4 psi is where you will get your best fuel economy.

But as it sits when I am on the high way at 80 MPH using my GPS speed APP on my smart phone I am at 15 PSI for boost.
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 08:12 AM
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2 bad GM CS130 case 1 wire alternators in a row.

Ist one bearings went out on the 3rd. warranted at the parts store. Put the new rebuilt one in and will not charge at all.

Yes all wires are good and did drive on the high way with the lights and heater on to try to get the field to ignite to charge.
Going to try lucky number 3 later tonight.
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 2003mikem
2 bad GM CS130 case 1 wire alternators in a row.

Ist one bearings went out on the 3rd. warranted at the parts store. Put the new rebuilt one in and will not charge at all.

Yes all wires are good and did drive on the high way with the lights and heater on to try to get the field to ignite to charge.
Going to try lucky number 3 later tonight.
Did you piss off a witch doctor? Maybe a curse? Seems like you cant get a break.

Last edited by Transplanter; Jul 6, 2012 at 10:08 AM.
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:26 AM
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No I’ve been cursed all my life. Just for an example I bought a new 65” HDTV best buy delivered it and set it up and then I noticed there was 2 holes in the front of it from a tow motor.
Also I just had a new HTPC built for me and in the first 3 hours the mother board smoked, had my PC geek fix it the new mother board did the same thing ,bad batch of parts He then went with another manufacture. All is good now

I am the exception to the rule that extended warrantees are a waste of money. Hell if I could buy one on my wife I would. If she becomes defective I would just exchange her. LOL
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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hey thanks for the info on what to get. going to help me a ton tomorrow. It does sound like you might be cursed. lol. that shouldn't happen. or maybe everything you own was built on a friday.
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:16 PM
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nathan- go with the 83 over the 85 if at all possible. The 85's had a trap oxidizer on the exhaust and some other crap on them.
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 04:04 AM
  #88  
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3rd alt is good this time, will see how long it lasts
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 04:17 AM
  #89  
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Getting closer to doing the exhaust and the new oil cooler.
So far I have 400 or so miles and I love it.

The 4runner likes to cruse at 80 on the highway very good. But I am hitting 10 psi for boost at 80 and when I get on it she hits 17 PSI
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 05:11 AM
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 02:18 PM
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If I were you I'd back the boost down a tad. Stock they run 10 max. Its been shown 12 is about the safe max and 15 is really pushing it. The stock rods are the weak link. Just my $.02
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 02:23 PM
  #92  
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It is set to stock
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 02:24 PM
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You are fine where your at Mike, these engines can support just over 300hp on stock internals. Been runnin the bejesus out of mine for a year now at 21psi and if was gonna throw a rod it would be in my lap by now.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 02:36 PM
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The Om617 mb repair book says the over boost protection kicks on at 15 PS I. And it dose kick on and shut down fuel about 2 seconds after it hits 17 PS I.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 2003mikem
The Om617 mb repair book says the over boost protection kicks on at 15 PS I. And it dose kick on and shut down fuel about 2 seconds after it hits 17 PS I.
The overboost is there to save the crappy mercedes transmission, not the engine. So enjoy without worry, just keep an eye on the egt gauge.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 05:38 AM
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Thanks pyrojoe22 I also used the same pipe off the turbo. Part number 122001 it fit great. I ordered it from summit .

And it spools faster than the POS pipe I had running out the wheel well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEP-122001/?rtype=10
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 08:48 AM
  #97  
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I wanted to ask you guys about this downpipe.
The v band clamp and flange are the same?
Thanks
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 09:02 AM
  #98  
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No you will need to weld directly to the flange that bolt to the turbo.

See pyrojoe22 post # 279 its towards the bottom of the pics.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f162...7/index12.html

I am have the rest of my exhaust down at a shop, but they wanted to much for the front pipe. So I helped them out
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 2003mikem
It is set to stock
I didn't realize you had the overboost set up in there still. Glad its running good.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:15 AM
  #100  
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Front diff

2003Mikem great job on your build, you did a good write up on it. I have a question, did you have problems with the oil pan hitting the front diff and did you have to put a body lift on it? if I missed this in the threads I am sorry. I have a truck similar to yours I got for 300 and I am going to do this swap now instead of the 4.3.
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