That shorter bellhousing from thailand does look interesting, I had not seen that yet. I already purchased an actual TOYOTA bellhousing.
This way using the r154 housing I know what clutch components to use ie fork and stuff.
I would worry about which pressure plate would clear the inside of that one. I would have to get the part and then piece together a slave system that works too.
It would be a easier option though.
If I had not already ordered everything I would consider it.

I wanted to stay away from the newer r150 so no need for adaptors and all that. Right for some, just not for me.
The jeep input might be out of most DIY's reach, but if they can take it to the local transmission shop and get just that step done cheaply.. thats the goal.

I'm going to build a website with step by step photos/videos of some of this pretty soon.

 

I am almost positive that r150f bellhousing can use the stock r150f clutch components and a 1JZ flywheel, that is always the easiest part it is always made for some toyota application to bolt up to it, and we already know you can bolt all that stuff up using an r154 bellhousing, its just the input shaft will be short, hence the custom bellhousing and then this also converts to push vs pull which is more desirable.

I can tell that because you can see that the R154 bell is a pull type clutch setup (fact) and the R150f bellhousing in that picture looks like the v6 r150f push type thats already in your car. I would not be surprised if they made it to bolt on with all your stock r150f parts, just get a more heavy duty clutch/pp if your application calls for it.. turbo etc...
also I am pretty sure you can use any of the R series clutch discs on all the R series trans as they have the same spline count or you can use a push type w58 clutch from a 2jzge or 7mge same spline count, and one of the pressure plates 3vz or 1jz should bolt up to a R series flywheel. I am sure if you message them they will tell you the exact combo they built it for and they race their stuff so its probably a combo with good aftermarket support.

If you trust the trans shop to tear that down and maybe do some upgrades its not the worst way to go, I just feel its the most complicated since you probably spent the same amount on the r154 bellhousing. You could always sell the r154 one, they are always in demand.

 

'race their stuff' is relative. I doubt they have 'raced' a r150 attached to a 2jz anytime recently. The quality of that cast doesn't look like something I would want to purchase. That is just my personal opinion. They don't have a website, only a Facebook not a good start for me. Especially if something is incorrect with the product. Hard to get your money back from those guys. When I was in Thailand the last few times at the factories I was a little concerned with some of the mechanical products they were producing. That is not a good representation of the country as a whole for their work, just the factories I visited.


I might buy the part anyway just to check it out.

I do agree with you however, that it is a more direct fit. Especially if it allows you to retain all of your original clutch components and just get a more heavy duty pressure plate. That would be a lot cheaper.

I think I am going to make a bell housing here fairly soon, that solves all these problems. Any custom fabrication I am doing for this swap, I am also converting into solidworks so that I can recreate anything for those who want it. CNC'd parts or cast parts.

 

scrib'd ...not many of us MD'rs in here.

 

I just meant by raced that they usually pick a combo with aftermarket support. like for the custom 1uz stuff they use 3sgte patterns which is widely available and you can get upgraded discs and pp, you know its not like a corolla pattern where the clutch setup wouldn't hold anything. I would think the same with this one except its prob a v6 or 1jz pattern. I think at the end of the day it would hold the engine and trans together.

Good luck whichever way you decide to go, the input shaft swap should work fine also.

 

8784 runner
How if your front diff clearance with the rear sump?
My 2jz is sitting in the car right now with a rear sump and it sits too high for it to clear the front differential. I think if I put the front sump back on all I will lose is the steering stabilizer, but it should sit lower.
I know its not entirely applicable because your a solid front and I'm IFS but I think I would rather weld a new stabilizer mount than anything else.

Did you have any issues with the oil filter hitting the steering column?

 

Ifs you should use the front sump from the gs or aristo. rear sump is for solid axle.

 

If you put the front sump it will fit right in like it was made for it. I wanna say you won't have an issue with the steering stabilizer. I personally took a look at a 2nd gen 4runner that had a 1jz non vvti in it. I'm pretty sure I remember it being very very tight but no mod needed to work, again that was with a 1j not a 2j.

As for clearance on steering. I do recall thinking that the a/c compressor and the power steering box wouldn't want to play nice together. When I dropped the motor in the a/c comp was not on the motor but it def looked like it would not fit. I know you didn't ask about that just throwing that out their for any one else. As for the steering column, I do not recall seeing a major issue with the oil filter and the steering column. I didn't put much notice or thought to you cause I 100% plan on using a remote oil filter which I would also suggest to you. As tight as it's gonna be I would like to free up any room where I can especially with something such as that. Driftmotion as the setup for $90 you just need the hoses to hook it up.

So I assume you still have your front sump?
You should start a build thread I would love to see what you have going on?

 

Captainslow, go to your search select it to look for titles only and put in Tims 1990. It pulled up my last post in his build when I put that in. Shortly after I started mine he drove his runner down to my house to check it out. Take a look at his build I'm sure you'll find something useful for your swap.

 

Yeah I just found that thread. Good stuff in there.
I will be starting a build thread as soon as I can upload all my photos. I'll link you to it once it is up.

I'll look at his remote oil filters, I like that idea. Right now I can tell it won't fit with the stock filter location. I still have my front sump, I'll just have to put it back on. Bummer. I dropped the trans and motor in at the same time and for those following this thread is used an AX15 input with a r154 bell housing and my stock r150f trans and it worked. I had to get a different pilot bearing, and cut 1/2 inch off of the ax15 tip.

Well now I will have a rear sump with the turbo drain drilled out and ready for someones supra swap that will be going on craigslist.

I thought Tims 1990 swap he had to pull out the stabilizer...? My swap is going to be a tiny different because I'm committed to leaving the transmission in its stock location and just making the front end work with whatever I've got for room. I already cut the front bar out.

What radiator are you planning on using? I think I'm going to size it up a tiny bit and use a push fan of some kind.

 

He might, I thought for sure I remember looking at it under his truck but I could be mistaken it was over this past summer.
And so you did pull apart your stock trans and swap the input shaft!? That's awesome if it worked out for ya.
I also like the idea that you were able to drop in the entire assembly motor and trans. I thought about trying it and I might end up doing just that, but if for whatever reason I need to get to the clutch or inside the bellhousing I want to be sure that I can separate the motor and trans with out moving or unhooking anything from the motor.
As for the radiator, most likely ill half to do something with radiator and electric fans one piece, when I had the motor in there was really almost no room. My biggest thought on that right now is hoping I won't half to modify the front end at all and leave it looking stock.

What clutch are you using?

 

Yeah I swapped the input shaft, and by that I mean I got someone to do it while I watched. I took a lot of comparison pictures I'll try to post them soon. I actually got a photo from inside the bell housing so you can see the fitment of the ax15 shaft into the pilot. It fits really nicely after taking .5 inch off the end of it.

You should be able to separate the motor...? I don't understand your issue. I'm leaving the trans in the stock location so I will still have room around the back, and not have to deal with changing anything else. Tomorrows plan is to build the mounts and have it sitting in the car.

I'm using a F1 cheapo ebay clutch kit. I found out they were clutch masters house brand so I went with a kit w/ lightweight flywheel as well. I think it was the stage 4, just so I could get the heavy pressure plate. It came with a 6 puck disc that I will re-ebay, because I needed a 10 spline disc due to the ax15 input.

I really want to leave the front looking stock as much as possible... but the desire for a plate style ARB or equivalent bumper is winning me over. Especially because I think that would make it easier to find room for the intercooler and radiator. I'm in the market for something aluminum..

 

Finally got the majority of the parts I needed. The only major thing left to get is radiator and electric fan. I was thinking I could put the stock one back in with a hogh enough cfm fan behind it.
Atleast with what I have now I can bolt the trans and motor together with the clutxh and flywheel on place. Should be getting transfercase back soon. So for the most part ill be able to do the drivetrain in the truck monus the driveahafys which I will half to get made.

 

sorry if we have already covered this, but how close is your positioning to be able to use the 22r driveshafts? I know a guy on here did that.

I finally got around to getting photos online, here is my ax15 input against the old one still in the trans

 

Sorry for the delay, but I missed of missed the email that you posted on the thread. I don't mean to question your research but your new input shaft looks substantially longer. The older input shaft that's in their is only roughly 1/2 to 9/16 too long. Your new one looks like the splines May bottom out on the pilot bearing. I would double check your info just to be sure.
As for the drive shafts. I'm already planning on having to get some made or at least modified to fit. I do recall reading another similar build to mine that he had to cut the floor back a little for the shifters to fir. His guess he said was that it punched his drivetrain back roughly 2 1/2 inches. I logged on to post a update and few pics. I'm not to far from being able to drop the motor trans and transfer case in so I should have a solid answer for ya I. The next week or two.

 

The flywheel is driftmotions lightweight 11.5 pound that I'm using. I'm putting there 6puck stage 3 clutch for a R154 with it. It's def overkill but I wanted to make sure it would not be my weak points when it comes time for hole shots in the mud or a little drag race off the red light. I'm also using new ARP flywheel bolts with it. The head on them is 1/2inch star pattern. Torque specs I used: The ARP bolts, 63ft Lbs. I snugged them flush torqued to 35 then again to 63 using red loctite on threads and under the head along the lock ring of the flywheel The stock bolts, you would snug them down then torque to 36Lbs. Mark the head of each bolt and turn another 90 degrees The 12mm bolts to bolt the clutch to flywheel get torqued to 14Lbs. Also I thought this was funny. I didn't receive a clutch alignment tool so I had one in the garage I've used for my previous runners and pickup and low and behold it was the same spline count.

 

Here is the transfer case. My Dad was nice enough to rebuild it for me. He's retired as nothing better to do and it only cost me a 30 pack for him to do it. I bought a minor rebuild kit for it from trail gear along with there double shifter kit and the input gear to work with my Tacoma transmission. I thought of putting a doubler on it but decided I don't really need it for terrain I have available around here. I do like the idea of having free range of hi low and 2 and 4wd.

 

This is the picture I used along with a YouTube video to put the hub assembly together with all the washers and snap rings in the right order. It's actually fairly simple just make sure you have a pair of flat headed snap ring pliers and it will be a breeze. Also just FYI so people don't get ahead of them selfs. The hub assembly gets put on the clutch before it's bolted to the flywheel, I kinda found that out after the fact.

 

yeah they definitely fit fine. It's mostly the angle of the photo. The spline lines up perfect with the clutch disk, you can see it here through the r154 massive access holes... this was before the any components were there obviously and before new flywheel bolts.. just a test fit..


just had to take a little out of the pilot part of the shaft and it fit perfect..


mated on the ground...



in the car on the custom mounts we made... stock trans location, 2jz, FRONT sump. ha. I made that mistake of putting a rear on. Front sump clears the IFS perfectly. everything back together here and the hood closed with no body lift...

 

ha yeah. This pissed me off seriously. I had to drive 20 minutes to find a vise to put it together. I lacked the tools to make this work easy...