I know this sounds stupid, but you wired up a "starter trigger wire" as outlined in the 3.4 swap 101 sticky (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-101-a-239002/) right?

Have you been able to narrow down where you lose power (where you're getting 0V when you should be seeing 12V)?

IG2 getting 12V with the key set to run?

Is ST1 (or pins 1 & 2 of the starter relay) getting 12V with the key set to start?

Is +B on the ECU getting 12V with the key set to run and start?

Is BATT on the ECU getting 12V all the time (even with key out)?

Lastly, it may not matter, but what COR are you using? 3.0? 3.4? Standard relay?

Sorry if it seems like I'm all over the place, but it seems like there's a lot going on and just trying to narrow it down.

 

I'm not home right now but I know I'm getting power to ig2, the two starter pins are not even though I I have wired my trigger wire. I'll have to check the others later. The plugs don't need to be inserted in the ecm to test the batt and b+ right? I did have trouble locating what to connect the b+ up. Maybe I connected it incorrectly. But I'm also only getting power to the IGN on the fuse box under driver kick panel

 

SO it looks like my B+ splices to my efi relay so im not sure whats up with that connection i think i just connected it to the efi relay on my IK2 as well as my existing body harness

EDIT: also my Batt on my ecu goes directly to my EFI fuse, and my efi fuse goes to the relay. so can i just connect both the Batt and B+ to the EFI Main Relay on my Exhisting body harness cuz thats what i did

 

So where exactly are the ground points located?

 

So is the ground under the oil filter supposed to go to the battery or?

 

I will have to check on that but i think so

 

Well shoot then, i have NO CLUE.... Im really upset at this point. I have my starter wire wired exactlly how Sac told me to do it but nothing is working. No power to the cab aside from Buzzer and Headlights however i am getting power to my Batt and B+. just none to the Starter it seems. I dont have a voltmeter anymore due to a buddy taking it back either.

 

Ground is ground....

I have:

-Intake manifold to body
- -battery to block (under the oil filter)

all with 4 gauge wires...

I would like to have 1 more put in from block to chasis but so far everything is working fine.

 

Dumb question, everything working prior to the swap? Did you do the wiring? What are the specs of each vehicle?

Sent from my iPad using YotaTech

 

I'm not sure I have one directly from my plenum to my chassis. do you mind taking a picture of that one by chance? I've found out that my 80a fuse keeps blowing everytime I connect the battery up I can't figure out where the shorts at from you guys have any ideas?

 

yes the car was running and everything was working before I did the swap the engine was just nearly toasted.it was originally of the 3.0 the new engine is from a 1998 toyota 4 runner the harness and ecm are botg from 98 comas

 

So I have found out that my 80A fuse keeps blowing, I must have a big short somewhere along the lines. Which is funny because i haven't done much re wiring in the engine compartment aside from the alternator plug. Im not really sure how to test the ohms as well as continuity because im not sure my volt meter has the setting. There was a minor slit on the alternator power wire but im not sure it was enough to even touch anything. I ended up wraping it with electrical Mastic tape as well as an electrical tape outside to assure the mastic doesnt begin to unpeel. I have power to all the other fuses in the engine compartment box as well and only power to the IGN in the dash compartment which makes since since my 80A keeps blowing. Im really not trying to have to buy anymore fuses so any advice on what i might need to do would be awesome..

Im going to post a picture of my Voltmeter to see if i have the correct one to do readings..

 

UPDATE!


Got the rig running! cant really tell how she sounds because i dont have my cat or exhaust hooked up but it seems to be good. I had to unhook my throttle cable because it was high revving at idle, not sure if i have to extend the throttle cable or something. But thank you all for the help on this. I know i have been full of questions (some probably being dumb) but i appreciate all of your help!

 

Good to hear you got things sorted out.

I didn't have any issues with mine, but some guys have had to bend the throttle cable mount on the 3.4 forward a little bit to relieve the tension on the cable enough to allow the throttle body to fully close. I can't think of a particular swap, but look around a little bit, it's been covered more than a few times.

 

AWESOME!!! Now post some pics!!!!!!!!!

 

Let me know if you still need a pic. I can take some tonight after work.

 

a picture to make sure I got all the grounds right wouldn't hurt I guess. once I go get my new alternator tomorrow and get that wired up all go ahead and post some pics!

 

Awesome! I did the Big 3 upgrade since everything was from scratch. I'll take pics and post here