irab88

iTrader: (4)

after zero compression in cylinder 3, #3 plug fouled with oil, oil leaks all over, and coolant in the oil, the 22r-ec* has to go.


I decided on the 3.4 because of the large amount of information, parts, and help available. I've researched engines ranging from the 5cyl Mercedes diesel to the lexus v8.

no supercharger for now.

the lineup will be:
5vz-fe - 3.0 bellhousing - r151f - 2.28 - 4.70

I already have the bellhousing and motor mounts ordered. the bellhousing is from a 88-95 3vz-e - r150. this gives the correct length and bolt pattern. the mounts are chilkat relocation mounts and brackets.

engine bought from another board member in a totaled 4runner. he took the trans for his 5spd swap, I bought the rest

list of things that need to be modified or changed (notes for me, mostly)

fuel:
-rerouting forward of the firewall
-relocation of the filter to the fender

air:
-stock filter, no relocation
-hole into fender
-might go cai, might not

battery:
-new tray, current location
-might have to move my bus bar setup for the evap canister

electrical:
-more research needed
-see about gm alt upgrade

mounts:
-chilkat relocation brackets
-re-work the cross member and transfer case mount

shifters:
-will have to relocate. engine sits 3 inches forward

driveline:
-new driveshaft lengths

exhaust:
-custom, or piece something together with stock parts
-quiet muffler, cat
-re-worked cross pipe
-heat matting-shield on firewall

cooling:
-3.0 lower t-stat housing
-new radiator?

hood:
-might need to trim
-add louvers for a bit of cooling

clutch/flywheel:
-3.4 clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and pilot bearing, 3.0 (or 2.4) throwout bearing

air conditioning:
-remove, for now. not converting to oba (already have a nice electric pump)

oil pan setup:
-oil pan part number 12101-65012
-15104-62070 Pickup tube
-Dipstick - 15301-62060
-Dipstick Guide - 11452-62060
-Dipstick Guide O-Ring - 96721-19010
-Union - 90405-10033
-(basically 90-95 3.0 4x4)


that should be all for now, I'm mainly creating this page for my benefit, to seek assistance and ideas from others, and to post issues that weren't addressed in other threads.



*the 'c' on the end of 22r-ec denotes California emissions. those engines have extra sensors, a different ecu, two oxygen sensors, 4 vacuum control valves, and about twice as much wiring as its 22r-e counterpart.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

On it! Best to ya!

Hadmatt54

On the wiring note, you need the detailed wiring diagrams for your truck as a starting point. Once you determine what year of engine you are going to go with, you need to get the detailed wiring diagrams for that year, including dash harness, body harness diagrams, because you will need to know what circuits you can eliminate. For example if your truck does not have an integration relay (back of interior fuse panel) in the body harness, and the donor vehicle does, you need to be able to wire around it. It can be done, I did it when I installed the 2.7 Taco engine in my Samurai, but I guarantee you are going to see wiring colors in your sleep by the time you are done. Another thing, try to stay away from transition years where Toyota makes innovations. For example, my 3.4 is from a 2000, 99-2000 was the year that the 3.4 went to coil on plug (cop) and the wiring diagrams needed were both 99 and 2000 even with these one of the major dash to engine harness connectors 1K1 was not correctly identified on either set of wiring diagrams. I ran into this on my 2001 2.7 which was also a transition year. The performance of your engine is directly related to the amount of time you put into your wiring. Lots of people will tell you you can do a swap with 6 wires or 10 wires to be connected and you might get your new engine to start, but getting an engine to start, run like it was meant to be there, without codes....that's the goal of an engine swap and that my friend is wiring!

aztoyman

I installed the same engine, trans, t-case combo in my 22RE 88. Lovin it!


You will be better off getting a complete donor vehicle if you can find one and have room for it. I got a lot of stuff off it and parting it out paid for my swap and got me duals, and other goodies. There is a TON of things you can use from a donor vehicle that will save you a TON of parts chasing.


I used the 3.4 flywheel, clutch and starter with a 3.0 TO bearing. I could have used the original 22RE/W56B TO bearing if I wanted. Looks different but same dimensions. I posted up pics and specs a while back. Used my original W56 slave cylinder too. You can run a 3.0 flywheel and clutch if you want. I think you "might" have to use a 3.0 starter?


I had to go with a V6 cross member. My trans shifter ended up under my radio so I had to put a dog leg in it to clear. Also installed Marlin's short throw shifter and Davez triple shifters. I really like this set up.


I had to run a shorter belt for my alt to clear my steering shaft. Check clearance before you drop big bucks on big alt.


I used stock 3.4 A/C comp and had two hoses made cheap to connect to my original 88 A/C system. I did use the A/C amplifier from my donor truck and I also converted to R134A.


I used my original style 3 row brass radiator. Cools fine in AZ heat. I did have it serviced though.


I took plenty of pics for others doing the 22RE to 3.4 swap. Just let me know if you need any posted up.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the tips. i'll try to find a 96-98 engine to keep things simpler.

as for putting time into wiring, i totally agree. wiring is kinda my thing

i know, but there's a large possibility that i'll be moving in about a year, along with a lot of travel

awesome, thanks. that's what i'll use.

yep, i figured. i have a super awesome custom setup from radesigns, and i'll be modifying the tunnel anyway to get the tranny up an inch or so

i saw the thing about the belt in a few threads, thanks for confirming.

i won't be using a/c for now, until i get the engine done. then i'll take it in to have it hooked up/charged. i need to get my current r12 discharged, though

original? from the 2.4?

i'll be browsing your thread a lot, and ask some of the more 22r-e to 5vz-fe specific questions.

thanks a bunch!

aztoyman

A year is plenty of time to part out a donor. I had a rolled 99 4Runner donor. Stripped everything off it in a weekend. Had the shell hauled off. The parts sold super fast. Mainly because I didn't ask too much for them.


I was surprised at what people wanted and how far they came to get it. Stuff I never thought would sell did. Even door gaskets, seat belts, little stuff like switches and clips, door innards, you name it.


Having everything you need from the same vehicle will save you a ton of headaches. You will use a lot more than you think from a complete donor. Especially swapping from a 22RE.


Get a donor vehicle, you won't regret it. Your swap will go smoother, faster and cheaper.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

where would i go to look for a donor vehicle? and what is a fair amount to pay? the only vehicles i've bought so far still have their airbags tucked in...

it's a great idea, and i'm all for it, so i'll take my time searching.

also, i found out about some minor and major differences between jap and usa 3.4's, namely the exhaust manifolds and intake pipe

aztoyman

I didn't know there was a difference between Japan and USA models. I did end up with two engines and transmissions so I have spares. My 99 4Runner had a manual trans and throttle body and cast iron exhaust manifolds. I also have a 2002 4Runner engine and auto trans. It had fly by wire TB and the newer style exhaust.


I got lucky and got the 2002 eng and trans with wire harness and accessories with only 40K miles on it for $750. I sold the trans with the wire harness for $850.


I traded my 88 Suburban straight up for the rolled 99 4Runner 5 speed with 125k miles on it. The guy that wanted my Suburban found it listed on CL for $2400.


I have seen complete wrecks listed on CL from salvage yards and private owners from $800 to $1500. Local auctions also have them.


I just saw a complete high mileage 3.4 listed for $1200 with nothing with it. I think it's too much.


I saw running T-100's for under $2000. I'm in Tucson so they are never rusted out.


Scrounge around and find a complete truck. If you cant find one at least try to get a complete engine with accessories, harness and computer. Exhaust manifolds and cat would be great. Intake piping and charcoal canister. All the wiring you can get from the body harness if you can. The diagnostic connector, main harness connector, any connector hooked to the ECM, and the A/C amplifier. Main power relay and COR.


This is just stuff off the top of my head. If you don't get it with your engine you will have to find it and it needs to be correct for your engine.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

I know you are on the east coast and it is a totally different market from the west coast but you might pm deathcougar. He buys and parts out 3rd gen 4runners all the time. Josh would be a great brain to pick for donor truck prices..

Hadmatt54

My son and I bought a running 3rz 97 4Runner that was running for $200.00. Stripped it in a couple of days and made our money back plus more for the parts we sold and took what was left to the scrap dealer. If you are patient and keeping checking Craigslist or the classifieds in your area you will find one of those deals.
The Japanese engines don't have EGR ports in the heads, so if you use one of those with a domestic computer and harness you will bring an EGR flow code which will fail emissions testing if your state has such!

irab88

iTrader: (4)

damn, now that i've searched craigslist a bit more, 4runners are plentiful, and i know i can make some money back even selling for cheap. and i don't mean junk runners, either; maybe 1 dent and a fresh tune up for $2k...

soon...


edit: my truck is historic, so no emissions

JBurt

You might also try copart.com. My neighbor gets all his cars through them. I don't know what it takes to register on their site to be able to bid on cars.

I did a quick check and saw a tacoma on there with a rear locker that goes up for sale on the 10th (the rest is pretty mangled though). Do you have a mileage limit?

irab88

iTrader: (4)

i want to stay under 200k, but as always lower is better. i've been looking at ones with less than 150k

Hadmatt54

Here when Toyota recalled the 90's Tacomas, what Trucks they did not replace the frames on they bought back from the owners and a single salvage yard received them all. My 3.4 in my pickup and my 2.7 in my Sammi both came from scrapped Tacos and the salvage yard here was selling everything you need for a swap for $500. Granted we had to strip everything we wanted for the swap, wiring harnesses, relays etc., but they pulled the engine and transmission and loaded it for us. Check with your local Toy dealer and ask where all of the recalls went in your state. You might find a deal.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

even if you find a complete package even if it has over 200k, you can always get the swap done. Run your high miles motor till it goes bang and replace with a long block down the road. The biggest thing is finding a complete package.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

2000 4runner, sr5, 2x4, bad auto trans, 220k miles, $2000

is that a decent price? does the engine have to be from a 4x4?

RBX

I'm not the authority on this....but.
I a 4x2 4Runner is a 4Runner minus the front diff and t-case(output is different). Other then that It's the same frame and wheel package. no idea on the price. Does the owner have any service records?

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

If you still need it Ian, I have a darn good running 3.4L with 125K on it!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f189...runner-277503/

irab88

iTrader: (4)

pm sent...

irab88

iTrader: (4)

motor mounts



and i have my donor 4runner. thanks brian