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the 3.4 flywheel has more surface area for the clutch disk. You can go the route of a performance 3.0 clutch but match it with the 3.0 starter. If you want the bigger 3.4 flywheel then get a matching clutch plate and pressure plate but will need the 3.0 throw out bearing regardless and the pilot bearing needs to be for a 3.4 and starter should also be from a 3.4. I went with the 3.4 clutch components and its fine. Others went with 3.0 performance clutches. Its your choice. As far as the 3.0 tube and stick, it will read acurately as it was designed for the 3.0 pan. Just bend and shape as needed and weld in the support. Or see if you can find someone parting a t100 2wd with 3.4
Ok so:
A) a performance 3.0 clutch like a unit from Marlin and reuse my 3.0 flywheel, 3.0 throw-out and 3.0 pilot as well.
B) a stock 3.4 clutch/flywheel, throw-out, but 3.0 pilot.
Essentially then, the 3.0 stock clutch that i already have/had in the pickup is not going to work then. Either way I am spending money......if that's the case I'll just buy 3.4 stuff and the 3.0 pilot.
Ok so:
A) a performance 3.0 clutch like a unit from Marlin and reuse my 3.0 flywheel, 3.0 throw-out and 3.0 pilot as well.
B) a stock 3.4 clutch/flywheel, throw-out, but 3.0 pilot.
Essentially then, the 3.0 stock clutch that i already have/had in the pickup is not going to work then. Either way I am spending money......if that's the case I'll just buy 3.4 stuff and the 3.0 pilot.
you need the 3.4 pilot either way and 3.0 throwout either way. you got it mixed. Those 2 items dont change.
you have a picture of that Rob. I priced all the stuff from toyota fora t100 tube and stick and thats $45 bucks id rather not spend.
So your 3.0 tube read accurately? Its just a matter of getting it sturdy then because that no problem. I was mainly worried that its accurate.
thanks
No, I don't...I can see what I can do this weekend. Yes, it read accurately, since as 22 said, you're using the same pan. Make sure it seats all the way in that dipstick tube boss that you drove into the block. All you need to do for a bracket is bend something around the top of the tube and bolt the other end to that stud that's right nearby.
Ya i made this really quick this morning. I haven't welded in a LONG time so this was my "warmup". Luckily, I have lots of black paint. I wish I had the resources and machinery (and know how) that Cadman has to machine all those nice looking brackets.
Loving all this time off. A whole week and the great thing is that I have another three weeks off in 3 weeks for Christmas. Couldn't have had a better time to finally find a donor as far as time available to work on this goes. However, the bad is the costs are adding up and that competes against Christmas shopping.
Anyway, got some more little things done on the motor before it goes back in place. Still waiting on a harness so it isn't going anywhere till I get that and swap it. Figure its much easier to do on the stand in the garage rather than in the truck. Have some other things to do on the truck anyway so we will start getting to those.
Finished the bracket for the dipstick and installed it. I really could have helped myself by thinking ahead a bit. I made the bracket come perpendicular to the motor which really made it difficult to get a socket on the manifold nut to tighten it. I ended up having to cut the heat shield a bit and even then it was really tight and even still I have to use a swivel to get a short socket on it.
So that was done at least so on to the next task; flipping the fuel lines. The return line was simple. Since it doesn't have to be a hard line I figured that however i could do it the easiest would be best since I am going to be joining some hose anyway to run to the truck return back to the tank. I spotted a bolt hole that secures the wiring harness on the back of the intake and figured that would be best.
The fuel line has two brackets on it and I only needed one to make everything secure so instead of having it just hanging there unused, I cut it off with some tin snips.
I had to unplug this hose and almost forgot to hook it back up. I cant imagine troubleshooting that after the motor was back in.
The small bracket on the line has a bend in it and that bend was causing it to sit against the intake.
I figured after vibration on trails and normal driving this could cause the line to wear so I decided to flatted it out and make it stand up vertically and away from the intake. Probably not the most important thing, but better safe than sorry. The fix was easy. Bracket....meet Mr. C
After that, everything fit well with loads of clearance.
Now though that vacuum line is in need of some help. It is sitting on the fuel line and I am not liking that fact that it will be rubbing it. I could just imagine a vacuum leak in 2 years and having to find that so I cut a small piece of hose off my donor Runner and stuck it in there. My son will be out and on his own before that rubs through and leaks. He can deal with it them
I also switched the rotation of the fuel feed line. I didnt take pictures but Evoltra's sticky in this section has a good illustration of how it goes. Pretty simple actually. Unbolt the line from the back of the fuel rail, flip it 180 degrees, and retighten it up. I didnt get as lucky with the feed line as far as finding a natural hole to secure it so I will have to make something later because I don't really like it just sitting there unsupported, especially a hard line with its added weight.
Ok so onto the oil pan. Here I deviated from the usual things that I have read and hope that I didn't screw things up. If anyone has any reason as to why what I did will not work properly, PLEASE let me know so I can either research it, or change it BEFORE the motor gets dropped back in.
First was to get all the old sealant from the bottom of the block. Started with a razor blade and got tired of doing that so I used my small wire wheel on the drill.
Using the drill I went to this in about 3-4 minutes.
Now for the change of plans. I have read on every thread to use 3.0 pickup, baffle, and pan. I didn't like the sandwiching of the baffle and the dual layers of sealant. Ya, I know that there are millions of Toyotas out there without oil pan leaks but this just seems like NOT the right way to do it. I decided to try the 3.4 baffle instead as it will not need to be sandwich because it fits INSIDE the pan. However there is the problems that the pickup will not fit with the 3.4 baffle so I'll have to address that.
For that I turn to one of my favorite tools. The cheapie body saw from Harbor Freight that I have had forever. Love it cause I can buy hacksaw blades and cut them to fit. A box of hacksaw blades will yield me enough blades to last me years.
For those of you that have been inside the oil pan area, you know that the 3.0 baffle has a hole in the middle for the leg of the pickup to mount. The 3.4 does not have this hole as the 3.4 mounts different. So we'll have to make one.
Next problem is that the other mounting leg won't sit flat because of the bend in the leg so I took a little of the corner.
Now the pickup tube hits the mounting bolt making the flange where is meets the motor (where the gasket is) not seat correctly. I thought about heating the tube and flattening it a bit to clear the bolt head but decided that would surely restrict oil flow. However minor of a restriction that would be, it can't be good so I just left the bolt out. Everything is still good and tight and I don't think that one bolt will cause any issues. Still had to trim the baffle a bit for the tube to clear it. I put a little Loctite on the bolts holding holding the baffle on so they should be good.
Terrible, blurry picture but its all on and tight. 3.0 pickup and pan, but 3.4 baffle. Again anyone see a problem with doing this??
The bolts are really nasty and covered in sealant and even soaking in the parts washer with paint thinner did not really help so I took the wire wheel on the drill to them to clean them up.
Started with this.
After about 15 seconds, I had this.
Only 18 more to go!!
After a bit they were all ready to go on. Spic and Span!
After all that was done decided to get the 3.0 motor mounts on even though it isn't going in soon. Drivers side went on without issues but when I got to the passenger side I did have a problem.
I have read I think every thread on the 3.4 swap here at yotatech, and also marlin, pirate, ttora, and various other sites and do not remember ever reading any issues with the mounts. Everything I remember said that they were a direct bolt-on. My issue is that it hits what I assume is a water drain for the block. There is no way to get the bottom mounting bolt in. The top bolt is in and threaded finger tight although its not seen in this shot and of course since it wont pivot over, none of the bolts holes line up.
I was about to grind the mount just enough to be able to mount it on the block. Obviously, it would only have to be a small amount of material to be removed. However, before I did this I want to make sure that I have everything correct or am i missing something?
The 3.0 brackets, insulator, and stabilizer come off the block as a unit and directly onto the 3.4 correct? Was I suppose to just change the stabilizers and insulators and keep the 3.4 brackets? Anyone else have this issue?
Other than that, everything went pretty smooth today. I think that I am done with things to swap that should be done with the motor on the stand. Am I correct with this? Anyone think of a "wish I would have done that with the motor out" moment that I have forgotten or not done.
Also, Cadman......if you read this, I am curious what you think about dropping the motor in with the stock crossover still attached to the motor. You know I have to make that work temporarily, but I was wondering if I should attach it after the motor was in. Any opinion? I doubt that most people have had the stock crossover on besides Cadman, but if anyone else has a thought on this, please chime in.
You're not the only one who cut a hole in the baffle plate. I saw it one of the other threads. I just cut off that extra leg on the pickup and have never had a problem with it in 58,000 miles since the swap.
As for the interference with that drain plug, you're not the only one with that problem, either, but I can't for the life of me remember who had the same issue. It might have been UKrunner, but don't quote me. I seem to recall that they just trimmed the engine mount to fit. Don't quote me on that, either
I used Permatex Right Stuff for the oil pan gasket material. Make sure you don't over-torque the oil pan bolts. You'll twist the heads off pretty easily. Don't ask me how I know.
I dont think it was me. At least I dont remember seeing a drain valve. I used the 3.0 mounts because the junk yard just cut straight through the 3.4 mounts with a plasma torch.
Also, Cadman......if you read this, I am curious what you think about dropping the motor in with the stock crossover still attached to the motor. You know I have to make that work temporarily, but I was wondering if I should attach it after the motor was in. Any opinion? I doubt that most people have had the stock crossover on besides Cadman, but if anyone else has a thought on this, please chime in.
I have a 1" body lift and there was just enough room to install the OEM cross-over with the engine installed and raising/lowering the rear end of the tranny. Getting it back off was another story. If you don't have a body lift I would install the cross-over on the engine before dropping it in. You do need to do some minor bending of the brake hardlines, but its not that severe. The flange on the catalytic converter also needs grinding because it hits the upper control arm mount. It was still very close after grinding, but everything only needed to be installed long enough to pass the BAR referee. I'll post a pic of the cat flange.
I didnt have an angle grinder otherwise I would have attempted to keep going with the stock crossover. Instead I spent $250 on the worlds crappiest exhaust. I am absolutly disgusted with the job done on my exhaust. There is not a single flex joint or flange until the rear muffler by the rear wheels. I'm sure it will crack as soon as I hit snow.
Oh well, my stock crossover is now cut up, rotated to point down the sides of the tranny and I have a join below the tranny on the drivers side, this goes into a pipe along to the muffler.
Any pics you need of the completed installation? I'll be under my rig in about 30 minutes to finish removing the trans. Waiting for the garage temp to get above freezing.
I have a 1" body lift and there was just enough room to install the OEM cross-over with the engine installed and raising/lowering the rear end of the tranny. Getting it back off was another story. If you don't have a body lift I would install the cross-over on the engine before dropping it in. You do need to do some minor bending of the brake hardlines, but its not that severe. The flange on the catalytic converter also needs grinding because it hits the upper control arm mount. It was still very close after grinding, but everything only needed to be installed long enough to pass the BAR referee. I'll post a pic of the cat flange.
I have a 1.5" lift that i just received from 4Crawler. I havent even taken it out of the box yet. Are you saying that with the stock mounts (no lift) you think it will fit, but with the lift it will not? If thats the case, I''ll put the lift on after the motor is in.
Originally Posted by UKrunner
Any pics you need of the completed installation? I'll be under my rig in about 30 minutes to finish removing the trans. Waiting for the garage temp to get above freezing.
Man and i was whining that it was "cold" here yesterday! What a baby I am because I had to put on a sweatshirt. Oh well, I have the referee to deal with and you have subzero temps. i'll take the referee!
I cant think of anything specific but I would like the see the clearance against those brake lines if you have a good shot.
Thanks
I think that I may start a few posts on other boards about those coiled brake line and try to figure out why they are like that. I am sure there is a reason as that is more material and multiply that by however many of these vehicles were produced and that is a lot if money; so Toyota did it for a reason. They built the ABS for a reason though too, and I am ready to take all that out so I'll see what I can find.
I already did that for you. It appears its for flexing and length. Flex to provide an area where the stress can be placed over a larger area of line, thus increasing life expectancy, and length to balance out pressure and flow between the circuits.
My cell phone data cable appears to have died so I cant take pics for you. I have a modified setup so its not representative of the stock crossover. I have 0.75 inch clearance from the brake lines, 2.00 from the fuel line and 3.00 from the frame rail. It's a 2.00" exhaust. Theres maybe 1.00" from the firewall insulation. Everything seems cool enough - I tested it with a thermocouple, and theres plenty of room for flex. I mounted a webcam in the engine bay, put the car in 4lo and floored it. The engine tilts over but theres still 0.25 inch clearance. I judged it to be good enough.
11-26-2009, 12:06 AM
so I'll see what I can find.
