looks really good! Let me know when you're ready for a/c, although at this point it may not be till next year.

 

Great news, dntsdad!

>For example, where the hell can you drive for 15 minutes at 25 miles per hour??

Two words: jack stands. Even easier if you have cruise control.

-Jeff

 

Thought about that. thats what i did when I was testing my speedo sensor and trying the get the wiring correct. That is what i will end up doing probably.

 

I need some help on this. I dont think that I understand completely. If I read this correct. I need to let the motor warmup to at least 176.

Then I need to let it cold soak. this can be letting it sit for 8 hours, or I can just let it cool to close to the outside temp +/- 13 degrees. So if its 85 right now, I can get the motor to 72-98 degrees and skip the 8 hour soak? this the way anyone else read this?

I am just trying to elimnate the need to wait 8 friggin hours between cycles!!

 

Also, one more thing. I am trying to cover my bases here and make sure i dont have an issue that I am unaware of. Everything looks right on my EVAP canister but I read somewhere that this line just vents openly to the outside. I essentially have it running down the fenderwell and then it just is cut off.

Is this correct? Or is this wrong?

 

LOL. Maybe. I am so frustrated with all this that I cant bear the thought of another task that I know NOTHING about!! Evacuate, hi pressure, low pressure, tigers, and bears.....OH MY!!!!

Once I get everything else going that will be next though. No pain, no gain!!

 

Got the truck on the jackstands in the garage again and I went through the drive cycles to the letter THREE TIMES!!!! and still no catalyst monitor test.

I gave up on that and began to let it cool for the EVAP test. I dont know if everyone realizes how damn long it takes to cool. Now I know why they say to wait 8 hours.

at 1:00 temp was 191. Now, at 7:30, its still 104.6. IAT barely got into the below 95 range a few minutes ago. Been sitting in the garage. Took the cap off about 3:00 thinking that would help it cool.

Damn frustrating stuff. Had to post a vent!!

 

Ok so no real progress to update but a few thoughts and questions.

I am needing to get back to the ref for approval with the manual setup now but the EVAP monitor will not run no matter how many time I follow the drive cycle above.

I think that I have done it 25 times now.

My question is I left all the tank stock. Never touched anything. I assume everyone else did as well since I have never seen anything about changing any tank components.

Can someone, or preferably a few people, confirm that they have not altered the tank, or anything involved with it, and the EVAP monitor test HAS ran and is complete?

Of course you would need a scantool to check this.

I am getting really frustrated!!!!

my local smog guy says that I can have two monitor incomplete and still pass but the ref is saying that he wont pass it without all of them ran.

I just want to confirm that it is possible with the setup that I have now and I am not chasing my tail.

thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

C'mon guys!! Someone can walk out and check their EVAP monitor test for completion.

 

Ok nevermind.

Apparently Toyota engineered this thing to where you have to have it all hooked up correctly for it to work!!

Somehow when I removed the EVAP box to install the clutch master I must have forgot to reattach this hose that runs from the gas tank. This was causing the monitor test not to run because it knew it wouldn't pass. I woke up this morning with the thought of my son saying that he noticed that the gas cap didnt WWHHHISSSHhhhh when it was removed anymore. I had forgotten it but I went to check the lines and sure enough there it was laying there under the EVAP tank.


Threw it back on the jackstands and "drove" it to the drive cycle in the Toyota bulletins and got joy in about 10 minutes.



So even though this was a ridiculously stupid mistake and further oversight on my part, I am VERY glad to have this done and ready to get back to the REF and finally pass this so I can move forward on the dual cases and final exhaust.

 

OK so back to the smog ref today. Waited for about an hour and the guy comes out and says that the gas cap is causing a fail. ˟˟˟˟!!!!!

Now I am thinking it will be another who knows how long before I can get back in there. he then says there is a Napa right around the corner and the next appointment didn't show, so just go grab a new cap and we'll try it.

So I run over there at MACH3 and get a new cap. About 15 minutes later I am pulling out with my new sticker attached.

WoHooooo smog legal 5 speed. Not the driver's side drop that other are getting away with but I will take it. Also, to boot it was $8.25 for the whole inspection and that fulfills the smog check for this registration period for the next two years!!! Thats a deal!

Onto the next stage........

 

Awesome news! Congrats!

Now I gotta get off my butt and finish my 4wd conversion...

Jeff

 

OK not a whole lot to update but I have been getting my dual cases together and ready to go in. I have never been in a transfer case before so everything was a learning experience for me. I love Marlin's products, and the guys there are FIRST class to talk to but the instructions for the their products suck for lack of a better term. I did use them but relied heavily on the MUCH better instructions from TrailGear.

I originally tried to do this with my crappy Channellock brand snap ring pliers. That was never going to work as they are nowhere near strong enough. I made a trip to Marlins after work since its right on the way home and picked up these. Much better!!! If you ae going to do transfer case, or transmission, work, these are well worth the $25.






To interest to fellow 3.4 swappers, I picked up this adapter from Marlin as well. It screws to the speedo cable and provides the correct pulse for the Taco ECM's. It was fairly cheap and hopefully will work well.








Then it was onto pulling apart my donor case to make the crawl box. Again I had never done this before but i have read my butt off so I felt like I could handle it. There is a crapload of stuff in here, but nothing that was overly difficult to grasp. Again, relying on the instructions from Marlin and especially Trail Gear really helped though.




I have two cases here. One stock 2.28 case and then a case that already has Marlin 4.7 gears in it that I bought used. The "marlin" case had oil on it so I decided to tear it open to reseal it all up good. I was much more careful with this one and kept everything organized much better this time since I knew everything was going back into this one, rather than just the crawl box parts.




I bought 5 gallon of the Purple Power cleaner to clean all the cases with and dumped it all into the parts washer. I am always leery of things that are "safe". Biodegradable, non-flammable, etc. is like buying fat-free cookies and actually having them taste good. I was skeptical but for about $30, I decided to risk it. THIS STUFF REALLY WORKS!!!




Wear your damn gloves though. This stuff takes everything off including skin. There were NO cuts, nicks, etc. on my hand. This is all from the cleaner stripping my skin.




Some random pics during reassembly. I'll skip the narration.




















And then all done and put together.






Now I just waiting on a crossmember, the v6 adapter plate and its back to the 3.0 R150 and dual cases!!!!!

 

I'm running the same set up as you but with auto trans. Would my stock 3.0 speedo cable work on the T/case?

 

you need a signal for the ECM, and also if you have electric speedo.....which i do. This allows the stock cable drive to be converted into electronic signal for the ECM.

If I was to have a vehicle with a cable driven speedo, I would change it to an electronic speedo and use this adapter.

Thats just me though.

 

Ok so for a variety of reasons that i will not bore everyone with I have not been working on this, but I am back at it again trying to finally get this thing completed.

For review, I currently have a Taco 5 speed in there and I need to get the 3.0 5 speed back into its home. I wanted to do this today but I didnt have any help available so I though F it. I am going to give it a shot.

I decided to remove the transfer case first instead of wrestling the whole unit out. Getting the transmission out alone (without a tranny jack) would be a chore in itself.

Other than getting drenched in gear oil the transfer case came off easy enough.

I go strap the jack to the tranny like I had done in the past and of course I cannot find a single strap anywhere. They either were stolen or the kids lost them. After cussing out the garage for a bit I noticed an old chain hanging on the wall. I used a long bolt and a tightening point and chained the tranny to the jack.


I was really nervous about losing it to one side or another but it came right out without a problem.

While I am in here, and one of the reasons that i have been stalling on getting back to this, is the dang crossover. My welding skills are nonexistent but yet I just couldnt rationalize sending almost $250 to have someone flip this crossover when the pics look so easy. I finally decided last night that I am just going to try it myself. If I destroy it I am only out my time. I was never going to send a core to TOS anyway so i had an extra crossover so I will pay that cost to them if I cant get it done correctly.

I started to remove the crossover and had issues from the get. The first bolt I went to stripped. I have a set of inverted Torx so I tried to pull the whole stud and that snapped off as well. You cant tell too well from the pictures, but that baby just gave way and was almost round.


I grabbed my trusty harbor Freight body saw and went to work.



and after about 45 minutes from first putting a wrench on the bolt I had this.


The rest came out easy enough..........I guess. Actually there were all a female dog but none of the other ones stripped out like the first one so that was good.

the crossover before I hack it up tomorrow


Without the heatshield.

 

Ok so i got the nerve up to try to do the crossover myself. I used Jason's thread that is stickied here, an some others and studied the heck out of them over the past few nights to where I though that I had a game plan. I still have my buddies welder over here, and although its on;y running on flux core right now, its still nice to have. It has saved my butt a few times.........like today for sure.

Started off the day by grinding the flanges off the crossover. Its funny how when someone posted that you think....ah, no big deal. It took ME a LONG time to get them all apart using a combination of a 4" grinder, a cutoff wheel, my airsaw with a hack saw blade in it, and a die grinder.

I took my time but still went through the pipe in a few spots. I wont affect anything but my goal was to not do that.

Here it is all apart. Like Jason, I left the small tube attached to the big flange. I came down at the exact correct angle to meet the downpipe.



I am doing this with the motor IN THE TRUCK and the tranny removed. It was a real pain since the really isnt any way for someone to help hold things or anything. The good thing is that you can see how things fit immediately rather that HOPE it fits later. I decided to pull the bellhousing from the tranny and stick it on the back of the motor so I can see the clearances immediately.


I want to use the stock downpipe to ease passing future smpg inspections to I decided to bolt that up to the remaining flange so that I could gauge that as well and check clearnace in real time.



I started on the drivers side and got this first tube in place. There is about an hour of grinding, fiddling, cussing, etc. to this point. I am fairly happy with the fit at this point but this small tube keeps falling out cause it didnt fit tight at all. I finally got pissed and tacked it in place after I was sure that was where I wanted it.
Also, notice the small extension that I needed to add to the length to get everything good. I bought 1 7/8 pipe from Autozone. 2" slipped over the pipe and was a bit too large (although it could have been filled with weld easily) but I opted for the 1 7/8 and grind the stock pipe and the edges a bit. I barely fit in, but it only needed to barely slide in.


I fiddled, grinded, filed and such for another hour or so to get everything fitting to where welding it up would be as simple as possible. I ended up with this.




Tacked the passenger side.


I forgot to take pictures of it all tacked together and in place I guess. It all fit pretty well but then I was stressing about if it would come out. It took somw wiggling, more cussing and some time but it did come out finally. I then put it back in and then back out again just to be sure before I welded it all up. This will NEVER come out in place. The tranny will have to come out if I ever need to R&R this thing.

I then took the whole thing over to my brother in law who is an EXCELLENT welder/fabricator and TIG welded it all together for me. Damn thing looks factory......at least the welds.




As I said earlier, having the welder here had saved me a few times and this time more than any other I think. Yesterday, the stud nut stripped out on the exhaust manifold and I had to tackle that today. I welded a nut on there and thought I would just back it out. I was the strangest thing. I could thread it all the way back in and then out to a point and then it wasnt moving any more. I cranked on the welded nut and it twisted the stud till it broke again. Now I scared, and had about an inch of useless stud sticking out. I welded another nut on and really welded it this time and it twisted the stud apart again.

Now I had about 1/2" sticking out and one more twist apart and I was going to have to pull the motor or at least the manifold since the was no way a drill was getting there. I even came inside to check the price of a new gasket and when I saw that it was $46 I was getting pissed. I decide to Google "broken exhaust stud" and found a video on youtube when a guy heated the stud with a torch and pushed a candle on it. Apparently the candle wax gets sucked into the threads acting as a lubricant. So I went out and really, REALLY welded another nut on the stud, and layed my little propane torch against the stud letting it heat up while I ransacked that house for a candle that my wife wouldn't notice I took. We have one in a flower thing that I cut the bottom off, and replaced. Now its just a little shorter but still there.

I was concerned that my little propane torch wouldnt heat the metal enough but I had nothing else so I have it a shot. No pictures but I suggest you wear glove cause the wax is HOT and hell and I burned the hell out of my hand as the wax poured onto it.

This is a shot of the bolt/stud heated with the wax on it. You can see the splatter on the white inner fender.


I then heated it up again, and applied more wax. A LOT spilled


I then crawled under and the stud came right out and I mean RIGHT OUT. Not finger loose, but little pressure on a ratchet was needed. I cant even express how happy I was!! Very cool trick!!!!

Tomorrow my goal is to get the crossover heat shield back on. I want to do this to help with the heat, but also to hide the welds and the tubing I had to add for an extension for future inspections. It should look factory after it gets some mud back on it again.

After that the tranny, dual cases, etc.

 

Crossover looks good.

One of those studs sheared off on one of mine. Got lucky drilling it out. It was completely frozen, ez out didn't work. Managed to chip enough of the left over stud out to start a tap through to clean the threads up. Almost a nightmare situation.

 

Back at it again today cause I may be too hungover for the whole weekend so I figured I better get as far as I can today.

Is started by attempting to get the stock heat shield installed on the crossover. I began by cutting the pieces that were not going to fit anymore. I forgot to mention that when the crossover was cut up, I had to flip the flex part around. So what was the drivers side is now that passenger side. This meant that the stock heatshield would have to be cut.

I ended up only needing to cut these pieces off.



I then just simply folder the ears back together using a pair of pliers and some vice grips to cinch it all together tight.







Ended up with this.




Ended up running around this morning as well picking up some new parts. New seals.




I also went to Marlins and then to Trail Gear (because Marlin was out of slaves) for a new throwout and a new slave.




Oh ya, I also have all these new parts sitting here waiting to go on.

New crossmember




V6 adapter, mounts, shifter, etc.




And I was going to use this Davez twin stick but now I am going a different direction on the shifters but I cant share that yet because I promised to keep it under wraps for a while. For sale Davez twin stick!!




All done and in it's new home.

 

Been working on the truck while school is still out for Christmas vacation. Its great being a teacher and getting so much time off!!!!

and oh ya.....if you try to hot wax trick loosening bolts WEAR GLOVES!!!! tore the skin off my hand. Not too bad in the picture but a real pain to work with cause it wants to rip open with each flex.





Not as bad as when i caught my arm on a chain link fence a few months ago though.








Got the transmission in and checked the crossover placement and everything looks like its going to work. Its a bit close but I never get closer than about 3/4" to the transmission or anything else. Pictures are not great but they'll do.







That red stuff is leftover wax.....not blood




I went to install the starter and saw that was going to be a problem. I am using all the 3.4 clutch components (except the 3.0 throw out) so I opted to use the 3.4 starter as well to match the flywheel. I have read that the 3.0 will work but didn't want to mess with it. The problem is the bellhousing and the starter are both threaded (receiving the bolt) so the bottom of the starter would have to be drilled out. I have never read this one before so i wasn't aware of this issue.

I used a 7/16 bit. Then it all went together perfectly.

Remember its the BOTTOM bolt hole that gets drilled!!!!!!







My shifter for the tranny has always been more sloppy than Paris Hilton and rattled like crazy so I ran over to Marlins and picked up a few new parts to fix that while it was out.




Pretty easy to install. Pry the old one off and pop the new one on.





and then the bushing.





I got the bright idea to clean my carpet by taking it all out and running it through the washing machine. We have one of those front loading ones that you are suppose to be able to but like 20 pairs of jeans in so I though a Toyota truck carpet should work. Washed OK, but it cold so it would never dry outside, so I ran it through the dryer. BAD, BAD idea. Took me an hour to clean all this out!!





Onto the transfer cases.

First I installed the V6 adapter. I am partial to Marlin products but as you will see I used a lot of Trail-Gear stuff on my transfer case install but mostly because Marlin just is out of items all too often. The dual adapter is a Marlin MC-07 and that is the only thing that I would have used. Lots of moving parts in there and anything moving I will stick with Marlin. I got a GREAT deal on all this TG stuff; too good to pass up so I went with it and nothing here uses a bearing or really moves so I went with it. Being local and knowing a few people that work for TG helps sometimes. I will say that everything fit well and worked as it should.

Installed the V6 adapter.








23 spline coupler and seal adapter installed into the rear of the transmission




I was going to use a twin stick shifter but I really didn't like the idea of losing the cupholder, cutting the hell out of my console, etc. I have been talking for months to a guy at Pirate named Rory from RADesigns that has been designing a triple shifter that is all front mounted for guys that don't want to cut, or possibly have a bench seat. I received it from him and this is a very nice piece. Smoothly shifts the rear case!! This is the reason that I have been dragging my feet on getting everything together is that I knew that I wanted to go triples and didn't want to have to take everything back apart. If anyone is thinking of going dual shifters, I would suggest giving Rory a call or PM him at Pirate4x4 and grab a triple from him. the cost difference is negligible between a new twin and the triple. Here is a link to a discussion on his shifter at Pirate.



The piece for the rear case.




and the main shifters





The center shifter is a new Trail-Gear shifter that is not going to work like that. As you can see, it bends to the side so I had to fix that. I marked the direction to bend and started heating with my little propane torch.





Propane wasn't going to be hot enough to have any "control" over the bend so I opted to cut it and bend it and then reweld it together.









Setup with the linkage installed. I'll adjust when they are in the truck.





Cases getting ready to go home.




I didn't have any help so I got these in by myself. Lining up the spline coupler was a bit of a pain but doable FYI.

Installed




I have a Trail-Gear crossmember and 2 of their "Bomb Proof" mounts and it all fit pretty well I have to say. I am concerned about the vibration but hopefully with a manual transmission it wont be much of an issue.

I left all the bolts loose because the crossmember bolts are all rusted to hell so I ordered new ones from Toyota of Dallas. When they arrive I will tighten everything up.









Getting the shifters in the truck and making it look as factory as possible is my goal. Why I am not sure, but the stock shifter on the transmission was not shifting properly in to its lower position of 2nd, 4th, or reverse. The Rubber boot was holding it forward to I had to cut it as well and bend it forward. Black line mark where I would cut and bend slightly forward.




I cut it, bent slightly in the vehicle and then rewelded it back together.

You can see the cut here.







I want to keep and much of the factory sealing system as possible which is going to be a real pain. I am hoping to reuse the console box and everything to keep everything looking factory, quiet as possible and keep wind and heat out.

Started with this.




and then started cutting to make it fit my needs. Started by cutting the metal which would essentially be replaced by the metal mounting plate of the triple shifters. I had to clearance out the sides and rear parts of the floorboard for the shifters to travel.







I didnt get any pictures but I also then cut the rubber and the rear but left the length to seal up the sides.


the transmission shifter was now hitting the left stick when in 2nd gear so it was going to have to go forward a bit more but I was concerned that moving it more was going to make hit the stereo every time I shifter to 1st, 3rd, or 5th. I really didn't have a choice so I went for it.

I cut the shifter again and bent it as far forward as I could without hitting the radio and then welded it back. Then it all fit pretty well.

You can see how much I ended up bending it. Hopefully this is going to work out.






Everything installed and back together. If I wasn't concerned with using the factory plastic or having it look somewhat factory I would be done here but that is not what I am looking for.




I was even able to use the factory rear mounting hole for the rear holes in the triple mounting flange. they lined up perfectly.




the metal of the mounting plate was a bit too long so I had to cut about 3/4" off to get it under the factory shifter housing.




That's about where I am right now.

I need to finish all this up, route the wiring back to the transmission, and then get the exhaust all reattached and ran to where I decide I want to to exit.