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so, I don't get it. you swapped to a taco 5 speed just to get bar'd, then swapped back to your r150. but in order to run your r150 you had to move the exhaust because of the slave cylinder collision issue?
why didn't you just put the r150 case behind the taco 5 speed?
why doesn't the taco 5 speed have slave cylinder collision issues.. I wasn't aware there was a difference from the new manual transmissions to the old..
Since the exhaust on a Taco is on the passenger side the slave is on the drivers side. On the old style 150's its the opposite. The transmissions are very similar but not the same, especially the bellhousings.
To run the Taco trans you would need the exhaust on the passenger side, and to run the old style 150 you need the exhaust on the driver's side, which is where you need it anyway of course for transfer case clearance, etc.
p.s. do you still have a pair of those 10k resistors leftover from your swap? all I've got left on one is the resistor mod and I'm starting another swap tomorrow
Finally found a replacement fan I stumbled upon at the local Pick N Pull sitting in the back of a Mazda pickup. I eyeballed it from memory and got lucky that it was the right one.
Anyway, I pulled the old one off and it was way worse than I thought. Thought that I would post this up and see if anyone has an idea as how this happened. I can't remember ever hitting anything that would cause this, or ever hearing the LOUD clunk that this would cause.
Well almost a year since I have updated this thread and I didn't realize that I left it with the fan still broken. That has been fixed for a LONG time and its funny that is the way this thread was left because i am going to swap the ringed 3.0 fan out tomorrow for a 3.4 fan with no ring.
I just finished up my SAS and the steering box was pushed forward about 2.5" and now that ring want to eat my power steering line. I could reroute the line (and I probably still will) but changing the fan should give me the clearance that I need.
I swapped the oil pan to the T-100 pan and pickup and thought that I would update to show some pictures for future searchers.
The stock T100 oil pickup went in perfectly without any further mods to the windage tray. Hole is from using the 3.0 pickup.
Side views
Doesn't really fit in the 3.4 Swap forum but I will post up some pics anyway.
Still have some painting to do and some trimming to do on the front sheet metal.
We are going to reinforce the front frame by running some tubing through it next week. I think that we are going to try to clean up the bumper area as well and make it flow better. I didn't put the front bumper back on because of that.
Looks great. I didn't wanna go back to read the rest but....What kind of axles are those? the outter looks like Toyota but the diff housing is different.
Don't want ^ Now I'm thinking I should change my 10 year old, 90k mile timing belt. SAS looks great. I don't even go to the SAS forum so I didn't realize it your swap was going down. What a beast.
So I decided to bite the bullet and change out the oil pump. I don't want to have to mess with it again after this and if that bolt comes apart again, I will be repurchasing all the timing components all over again.
Rock auto had the Aisin pump for $85. That and some oil is worth the peace of mind for another few years.
When I did mine, I loosen the two bolts on the tensioner. I had the most trouble with the right cam pulley.
I'll be tough to find just the front seal cover eh?
You'll want to make sure the hydraulic tensioner is compressed and that you can stick something in the slot on the side to keep it compressed until you're ready to tension the belt. Toyota says to use a 1.27mm hex wrench, or go get yourself one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o02_s00_i00
I know I had some issues getting everything lined up correctly with all the pulleys on, and I think I pulled the idler pulley (the top one between the 2 cam gears) and was able to get everything lined up on the two cam pulleys and the crank pulley; pay attention to the lines on the Toyota belt and that they line up to the various dots or other marking on the pulleys and backing plates. It's not too bad, just take your time.
Got every thing fixed. I replaced the oil pump, water pump, thermostat (jiggle at 6:00) and all the idlers and tensioner. Bought an OEM kit off eBay and the oil pump from Rock Auto (aisin). I replaced the balancer bolt as well as Toyota says its not reusable. A new oil pump seal, pickup gasket and all new felt seals for the top and bottom covers, and a new lower #1 cover.
Anyone doing a timing belt should notice that Toyota makes two different crank pulley bolts and both need to be torqued to 217ft.pds. NOT the 181 (or something) that the older manuals call for. Toyota revised this after issues with the bolt walking out. Coincidentally, I talked to a guy a couple days ago that use to have a 97 Runner (stock) that this happened to. The crank bolt fell out, pulley walked off and destroyed everything in the timing belt area.
Bolt for the 96-98 is P/N: 90105-16031
Bolt for the 99 and up is 90119-16006
Both come with a sealer on the threads but I admit I added just a few drops of Locktite as well.
All said and done its was just a tad over $600 for everything including new coolant (Zerex Asian formula) and oil.
What a mess but glad its over.
I ended up making a tool to hold the crank to get to 217ft. pds. on the balancer bolt and rented/borrowed a torque wrench from Autozone that went to 250 pds. Very crude as I had ONE cut off wheel and nowhere near a means to drill a hole in 1/4 plate large enough for a 19mm socket to go through. Welded that to a piece of 1/2 steel pipe for running natural gas line that I has lying around. Its ugly but worked well.
I pulled a dummy move and got the belt on fine with the lines on the belt in the proper spots with the matchmarks on the cranks and cam pulleys dialed in. Spun everything and noticed that the belt was now a tooth off, but the matchmarks were perfect. I thought that this meant that something was wrong so i took it all apart again, compressed the tensioner in the vice and redid everything.
Same result.
The guys in the Taco forum helped me out and pointed out that this was correct for the belt to "skip" a tooth. Feeling stupid (but happy at the same time) I reinstalled the belt for the third time and put it back together.
I hate posting my incompetence but maybe it'll help someone down the line by reading this. The marks on the belt are only for initial setup and will not stay on their marks as the motor rotates. Just make sure the matchmarks on the cam and crank pulleys do!!
I found it easiest to get the belt on by installing onto the RH cam pulley, then the left, and then have someone put a socket on the RH cam pulley and turn clockwise slightly to put pressure on the belt and that gave just enough slack to have it slide onto the crank pulley with minimal pulling and cussing. Anyway, do what you will but that worked for me.
Now back to finishing the SAS stuff. Just need an Elocker harness and to cut and weld the front driveline up.
The belt will take forever to line up with the marks on the belt. line up all the timing marks on motor, set the belt, rotate crank pulley 2x then check to see that all marks on the motor line up.
07-10-2011, 12:41 AM
Don't want ^ Now I'm thinking I should change my 10 year old, 90k mile timing belt. SAS looks great. I don't even go to the SAS forum so I didn't realize it your swap was going down. What a beast.
