I think that it is. Also, there wouldnt be a forum if it wasnt!

Should be a fairly straight forward swap with what you have. I would spend a few days reading here though before you make up your mind.

 

Well I think that the rear spring had something to do with the rear brakes. We removed the rear LPSV and the anti lock system during the swap so it must have came from there. Maybe it was holding he rear line. I dont know.

Anyway, back at it yesterday when the flywheel arrived. I ordered all new bolts from Toyota for the flywheel as they are torque to yield like head bolts are, and not suppose to be reused. Part number is 90105-10138 FYI. The stock 3.0 bolts a bit too long and the auto bolts were a little too short to be safe anyway.

Also, the bellhousing bolts were too short for this tranny, 3 of them anyway, so I ended getting all new ones as well. Here's the part numbers for those. Need three of each.

Remember all the above is for the Tacoma 5 speed in case anyone is searching this in the future.






I was also really happy about the "new" Toyota flywheel. I ended up taking the stuff flywheel and slave back and buying a Aisin slave from Trail-Gear, which is about 2 miles from my house. Really nice to have Marlin and Trail-Gear within 4-5 miles of home. The thought of bending hard lines to the slave was something that I wasn't looking forward to so I went to my local speed shop, and picked up a -3 Teflon lined stainless flexible line and the fitting to make it go together. The new Aisin slave, the turned Toyota Flywheel and the new line and fittings were a few bucks less that I had in the Chinese flywheel and the Kragen Beck Arnley slave. Good deal all around!!





Clutch on. This took a while because I had a hard time keeping the fingers lined up, while tightening the bolts for the clutch cover. It seemingly always shifted and when everything was torqued it looked out of center. I think that we did it 4-5 times before we were happy with it. Also, the FSM shows measuring the fingers with a SST that I do not have, so we left alone and hopefully it will be OK.





Next was the transmission itself. This thing was MUCH harder to get in than the auto. I have taken the auto off this 3.4 twice and installed once. Every time it was a piece of cake. Went right on, and came right off.

We fought the manual for a couple hours. First we had the jack wrong. he ramp of the jack would hit the sway bar and therefore not allow us to get close enough to stab it in.





Pulled it all the way back out and turned the transmission around but then because this transmission must be shorter, my jack wouldnt get it high enough, so we had to deflate the tires.





Jack correct.




From here the flange for the brace that attaches the downpipe to the transmission bell housing was getting in the way. Also, we were constantly against the O2 sensors and I didnt want to break one and have to buy another. I could never maneuver around it so after my frustration level was at critical mass, we opted to remove the exhaust.




After that it was about another 15-20 minutes of jacking the front, back, truck, and making slight adjustments and it FINALLY slipped in place!

Bolted everything up and all was good. Went through and hooked up the starter, ran the wires, etc. and moved to the clutch master.

Everything ended up fitting perfectly. It tight but plenty of room.







Only issue this far is the two rear drivelines we have are either just too long, or just too short. I am going to make a bracket to relocate the mounting of the carrier bearing to get us by. We will have to have a new driveline made when the dual cases go in anyway, so i just need something to get us by to get to the ref.

The shifters went in with just mild trimming for the TC shifter but again, that is just temporary so we did not spend much time on making it nice.

Fix the driveline today, and then on to repinning that wiring harness.

 

Lookin' good, Jason! Congrats on getting the tranny and tcase in. I'm wrestling my transmission and tcase back in today so it's very sobering to read your post.

Keep up the good work,

Jeff

 

Ok guys, took Saturday off to watch my niece's swim meet and give some blood. I was back at today with the daunting task of rewiring the ECM. It really wasn't that bad but definitely got my brain spun around a few times.

Another member here and at Ttora made a conversion diagram. I would love to give him credit but I don't want him to get 100 requests for the same thing, so I will let him chime in here if he wants to make himself public. I just don't want to take credit for all his hard work. You cannot simply take his work and make it work for your swap, but it does make some of the functions a bit more clear. There is still a TON of research and diagraming to be done on your end.

This is what I started with.




I then labeled all the plugs with a super fine tip Sharpie. This really paid off HUGE when I stared moving the wires form the auto plugs to the manual ones.








Then to remove all the wires from my donor plugs. Pry up the locking tab. They WILL NOT come out if you don't unlock these as most of you know.




I like to use a pushpin to release the tab. It's nice cause it has its own little handle. Anything small will work however; a safety pin, paper clip, etc.




I then striped the plugs.








Onto the truck. I went through the diagram on more time to make sure everything on the auto ECM side the diagram was indeed where it says it should be. Other than one pink wire saying the EWD that it should be pink/blue, everything was as it should be. I almost got too excited and pulled all the wires out of the auto plugs like I did the manual. that would have been a nightmare as there are a few instances of the same colors including the auto trans wires. I slowed down and decided to swap them one at a time and double check every step.

Virgin auto plugs.




Checking everything against the diagram.




The first one I took from the auto plug and moved to the manual.




Well, first failure. I got about 7-8 wires on this plug.




I then realized that they should be on this one.




So I swapped them to the correct plug.




One a side note, with all the confusion over the COR and whatnot, I figured I would take a picture of the harness. The is the plug going to the stock 3.0 COR. The blue wire shown is the feed TO the fuel pump. This is the wire that should GET power FROM your relay to engage the pump on.




A finished shot. All the relevant wires are switched over to the manual plugs.




After I hooked the battery back up, I looked for smoke and saw none. I then had to hook up the clutch switch so it would start, and the clutch cancel switch. I did all that, crank the key, and it fired up instantly. I don't have any exhaust on still at the downpipe so I shut it off after 5 seconds or so.

Hopefully tomorrow the exhaust gets back in and I get the rear driveline in and see how it runs. All told, from start to finish it was about 3 hours or so. Not too bad but without the few mistakes that I made I could do it a little faster now.

Also, took me a while to figure out the backup switch. I kept looking for something on the auto harness that would plug in. There isnt anything that will plug into the switch on the manual trans. I moved the switch from my original R150 transmission to the Taco trans. The switch is in the large park position switch on the passenger side of the transmission. There is a B/Y and R/Y wire at the plug. When those are jumped, the backup lights come on. I'll have to dig out the plug on my original 3.0 harness and hopefully salvage that plug and wire it up to the 3.4 auto harness position switch to get that to work properly.

I figure out the 4x4 switch tomorrow as well.........hopefully.

 

Awesome, Jason! Really glad it started right up without any added drama. Glad I could help. Good job on that wiring, too! Must be a huge relief to have that finished with.

Jeff

 

Well minor update. Got all the little things together and drove it around the block a few times tonight. We are having to rig some brackets to hold the center carrier bearing up for the driveline. This one will come out and a new 1 piece will go in after this gets through the ref so i dont want to spend any money on a temp fix.

Good news is that I didnt get any codes during our drive but that was only about 4-5 miles total.

Clutch feels good but it does make a slight hummmmmmmm when engaged. I'll have to post up a video later.

Ref appt tomorrow........fingers crossed.

 

That's great!

Not sure what's up with the clutch noise, guess we'll have to wait for the video to evaluate it. But very glad you didn't get any CELs!!

Good luck tomorrow!

Jeff

 

Any update, Jason? How'd things go with the CARB referee?

 

Well we went yesterday but he ran out of time in my allotted appointment time of about 45 minutes to inspect everything.

He also mentioned that some of my monitors may not have tested yet so I stopped by a local smpg shop and th guy was nice enough to plug in his OBD2 scanner ( I dont have one yet) and sure enough the Catalyst and EVAP circuit have not ran tests.

I found out that for a regular smog check, you can have up to 3 systems not active to still pass, but for a referee visit they all have to have tested and reported correctly.

I wasnt able to get all the conditions correct for the test to run last night and I am out of town all next week camping so it'll have to wait until the following week.

SO for future reference, make sure all your monitors have run before going to the ref.

 

the evap stuff will only test when you have ... over half or 3/4 tank of gas i believe. So make sure you're topped off.

 

Have not had a chance to get back to this. ya I read that in the FSM. Have to drive 9 miles at 45mph to engage to cat monitor as well. Damn hard to find a 9 mile stretch that you can drive 45. Freeway I guess. Around here though you may get shot for going that slow.

I do not have a OBD reader so I dont know when the test has run. I need to get one.

 

Man....over 10,000 views of this thread!! WOW!!

Anyway, still have not done much on this but I did have my son take it over to the local smog shop to see if the monitors had run yet and the damn EVAP monitor still hadnt run apparently. Cant understand why. I followed everything to the letter. I wonder if it could be a leaky gas cap causing that or something stupid like that.

Anyway, the smog tech told him that I have a P0400 code which translates to a "P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow".

What stumps me is that as far as I can tell there is no EGR physically, or electronically. I wired this myself and studying the Toyota electronic diagram makes no mention if the EGR and the pinout for the ECM also shows no EGR pinout.

A little history. Originally this was an auto and I am using the auto harness. I have since swapped to a manual and changed the ECM to a 97 RUnner, 3.4, 4x4, manual ECM. I swapped the pins function for function and everything runs perfectly. I was having trouble getting the Cat and EVAP monitors to run their tests but apparently they have now, but this code is stored. There is no check engine light on either.

Any ideas on what is going on here? I dont have a OBD2 scanner either so I cant check anything myself which is frustrating. I guess I am going to have to break down and get something.

Anyone recommend a good OBD2 to USB cable that will go to my notebook? I like the iPhone app but almost $200 for the wi-fi adapter is ridiculous. Like to stay at $50 or so.

 

I use one I got off of eBay a few years back. It is called an ELM327 If you do a search for OBD2 ELM on eBay you will see a bunch of stuff. I just saw a few for approx $30. Try to get one that is direct USB and does not use a serial to USB adapter. I have quite a few apps, but there is a pretty good free one at www.scantool.net

 

Ok I ordered the ELM327 from Amazon for like $40. It comes with some software but I am looking to make sure it will read and state the status of monitors. I still think that my EVAP test has NOT ran yet but want to check to make sure.

Does your software do this?

 

Short answer, No.

My software is older (it's called santool.net). It does have a "tests" button on the interface screen, but it does not work. Does the tool you ordered come with the OBDWiz software? OBDWiz was the evolution of the free version that I received, but it it a few years newer in development. I think it does have this capability, but search to make sure.

I do have a few others Palmer Engineering, etc. I'll look to see if they can probe to see if the EVAP tests have run. I would be curious to know if mine have run as well.

 

Jason,

For the last few years I've been using the system sold by OBDDiagnostics.com, which DOES support monitoring the Evap test status. Screen shots here:

http://www.obddiagnostics.com/ScrnShot/Winscreen.html (see 4th screen shot, Status of On-Board Non Continuously Monitored Tests, for proof of evap system monitoring.)

The complete system is about $100/shipped, it's a good system. If the one you ordered can't do what you need it to, I'd suggest giving this one a try.

Jeff

 

You got me thinking, and I just went out and tried the PCMSCAN from Palmer Engineering and it did have the tests. Here is a screencap of the results from my 97 T-100 5vzFE ecm.

 

Hey Guys. This is what I bought. Hopefully it is not a turd.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

Monch......the apps that you have.......willing to share?

 

That is the exact same thing that I purchased, except it looks to be a newer model that has the USB cable permanently attached to the unit. Mine has a removable cable (which was always falling out until I taped it)

I PM'ed you.

 

Ok so getting the OBD2 scanner has been a bit of a fiasco. I ordered via Amazon and waited 4 days to get it Thursday only to open a preschool DVD to practice reading sight words. I am pretty good with sight words so I called them and got everything worked out. Amazon is pretty awesome I have to admit. They shipped a new one next day for free, and the item had gone on sale like 30% off so I got that price as well. All told the thing cost me something like $35. Good deal. Got it all connected and everything works fine. I have gathered about 6-7 OBD2 programs and some work and some don't. I think that i has to do with this being a USB connector and not the older style serial, which my laptop doesn't have anyway, or ANY laptop made since Windows ME i think.

Anyway, I had a trouble code stored which was P0440. The local smog guy told my son it was P0400 which was a EGR trouble code. This had me staring at the ceiling at night since this doesnt have an EGR at all. Luckily, he told him wrong, or my kiddo wrote it wrong. I have been waiting like a kid at Christmas to get this thing so I could confirm that code, or disprove it as an error. So glad that it appears to have been.

Regardless, I had this P0440 to deal with. I started thinking that maybe it was an old code from a prior vehicle since I bought this ECM used so I opted to clear everything and start from scratch. Code went away and has not returned but getting the drive cycles to trigger the monitor tests is about impossible.

There is awesome OBD2 monitor info attached

I have to run drive cycle 3 and 5. Very frustrating since they are extremely difficult to meet. For example, where the hell can you drive for 15 minutes at 25 mph?? I guess I need to find a huge parking lot somewhere and make a 100 circles.

Anyway, the scanner works good. The software seems elementary but does what I need it to. Display codes, erase them, and show monitor readiness. It also does live data such as fuel economy, temp, RPM, etc. For review, .

Whenever I get the monitors to run, I'll get to the ref and then onto the next step. the dual cases!