Jordan Rowland

Hello all,

I have a 1990 4wd automatic trans 22RE 4runner. Looking for some more power and have been looking into the 5VZ-FE swap. My plan is to get a 3rd gen 4runner or Tacoma with a 5VZ and a manual trans from Copart and swap it into mine. I've heard its much harder to go from 22RE to 5VZ than from 3VZ to 5VZ. Can anyone give me some specifics on why that is? I've read through jasond's thread, that is stickied under this forum, several times but i wasn't sure how much of it would transfer over to my situation since I'm using a 1990 4runner and he used a 1992 truck. Also his thread is about 17 years old so i wasn't sure if people have found better or easier options on this swap yet.
So far I know:
- there are some wiring differences (just not sure what those are yet)
- will have to weld in new engine mounts (a few inches further back i believe)
- different oil pan (a 3vz pan on the 5vz i think)
- some custom exhaust work
- custom crossmember for trans/transfer case
- custom driveshafts
- aftermarket radiator/fans
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​​​​​​I'm not sure what differences there will be in going from auto to manual either. Any insight on that is appreciated as well.
Any tips, tricks, advice, info whatever would be much appreciated. LITERALLY ANYTHING. Trying to gather as much specific info on this as i can before i jump into it.

aztoyman

I posted up a super detailed swap thread here but all the pics are gone. My hard drive crashed so I lost some of the pics. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...closes-267673/

First thing I recommend is a complete running donor if you can get one.
I thought I used a T100 oil pan. I'd have to go back in my thread to see. Had to drill my 3.4 block for a dip stick too.
I modified the OEM exhaust cross over and used the OEM exhaust to the cat. Cut and weld to fit. Then universal mandrel bend exhaust kit is cheap to make the rest. I prefer the older cast iron exhaust manifolds but the newer ones should work too.
I used a TG dual case crossmember/skid plate for a 3.0 V6 truck.
I used my original radiator from my 88 pickup but a 3.0 fan on the original 3.4 fan clutch
You will have to figure out the wiring for your specific application so get EWD's for both your current truck and for the donor.
I used my original 88 pickup A/C in cab parts, condenser and fittings. I used the 3.4 compressor as it is on the 3.4 engine and the A/C amplifier from the donor. The engine idle up works with the 3.4 amplifier. I cut the crimp sleeves off my 88 pickup A/C hoses and used them plus the ones on the 3.4 compressor. I had an A/C shop just crimp on new hose as needed to fit. I used replacement 1988 truck expansion valve and dryer compatible with R134. I drained the 3.4 compressor PAG oil and used Esther 100 oil since I couldn't completely eliminate the original mineral oil from my 88's system. IF...you can have a completely clean system, use PAG oil. You will get differing opinions on the oil. I did MANY R12 to R134 conversions working as a dealer mechanic and this is just MY experience. I have been running my swap since then without issue all these years in Arizona heat so take it for what it's worth.

I used an R151F trans and dual cases. The R151F has the shifter about 4" forward of a typical R150 so my shifter comes up right under the radio. Even when I mounted the engine as far back as I could get it. So play around with location before you weld anything permanently.
I mounted my engine lower than normal and didn't need a body lift or cut the hood. The trade off is up-travel and oil pan clearance. It was good on my SAS'd leaf spring setup, but it was no good when I went to 3 link. So consider this also before welding. I used my original 88 clutch master cylinder and slave. I used the 3.4 flywheel and clutch.

I used my front double Carden drive shaft in the rear. It had to be lengthened and I had to put new spring perches on the rear axle to rotate pinion up. I used the rear drive shaft for the front. Just needed to be shortened so it's cheaper than doing the rear unless you add in a long travel slip joint. Probably a good idea. I recommend Tom Woods. Best deal I found and great service but you can go to any shop you like.
I originally used the 3.4 power steering pump and modified a stock typed hardline/hose but there is a better way for the hose. Metric to AN adapter fittings and a -6AN hose. I have the part numbers to the fitting somewhere. I now have a TG high flow pump and hydro assist.

I used the OEM air box. You have to move the battery to the other fender.
I used my original 88 truck fuel tank and pump and the 3.4 charcoal canister.

I'll answer any other questions you can think of if I can.

aztoyman

I had an SAS so IDK about oil pan and IFS if you are still IFS.
Also beware that there are early and late R150F transmissions. The later ones that came on the 3.4 engines have a deeper bellhousing and longer input shaft. I "THINK" you should use the early one from a 3.0 truck but I'm not positive. I think it matters more because of the slave cylinder being on the driver side on the later version. The early 3.0 version is on the passenger side like our 22RE W 56's have.

Get a complete donor if you can so you can get all the exhaust, emissions stuff, ECM and wiring, A/C amplifier, etc. I used a TON of parts off the donor truck (99 4Runner) and parting it out paid for my swap and more. Searching for the PROPER parts from a bunch of sources is going to suck. Even if the donor has a bad engine, you will be better off because you will have all you need and parts to sell.