aztoyman

Been playin around with the position of the 3.4 in my 88. I don't want a body lift. Don't really want to cut the hood but , I would if I had to.

Got the engine mocked up in the truck with the trans and t-case at original height.

Engine sitting just low enough to barely close the hood. Now the trade offs.

Had to remove the steering stabilizer. A/C adjuster hit it. (I could drop the bracket down if I really need to run it)

My 3" TG springs go flat when the bump stop hit the frame for 5 1/2 " uptravel from normal ride height.

The front diff will clear depending on how far back it will move when the springs compress.

The problem is the drag link. At max stuff I will need to limit my up travel to 4" to 4 1/2 " or it will hit the front of the pan.

Steering box is already moved through rad support. Can't go rearward or exhaust will hit.

Alt hits steering rag joint at full belt extension. A shorter belt should fix this.

A/C comp sits about halfway below frame rail. May be a bitch to change but looks do-able.

I had already trimmed out my fenderwells (not for tire clearance) for better access to my 22RE which make everything look really good at this point with the 3.4. I can actually get to everything.

Need opinions.........worth it to lose the 1 1/2" up travel? EDITED 7/4/13 DIDN'T REALLY LOSE UP TRAVEL. My steering would have hit the frame rails before my bump stops hit the frame.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

cut the hood and run a scoop.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Indeed.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Yes. ^^

aztoyman

I stuck a magnetic level vertically on the front face of my crank pulley. The engine angle is almost parallel with the radiator. Very SLIGHT rearward tilt.



If I raise the engine it will be tilted backward in relation to the rad. Fan would be closer at the bottom.



I'm kinda liking where it sits. I'll do some more measuring and THINKUN before I weld it in.



I'm taking plenty of pics. Once I figure out how to post them I will.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

ALL that trouble instead of just cutting a hole in the hood?

Doesn't seem worth it to me.

If you want proper engine height without a hood scoop/cutting the hood or a body lift, hit up Toyotafiberglass.com and talk to Slacker about a hood

aztoyman

All that trouble? The whole swap is trouble if you really think about it. But, it's fun to me. Stuff I like to do.

All I did was set the engine down in the frame on some blocks and clamped the t-case crossmember in place since the bolt holes didn't line up anymore. Looking for an idea where to mount it. That's it. Have to fab mounts anyway. Thought I'd post up what I found.

Cutting a hole in the hood IS easy. I'm not much of a body man. Welding, bolting or bonding on a scoop, blending it in and painting it is more work for a guy like me than fabbing up some mounts.

I don't have the money to buy bolt on kit parts to make this real easy. I'm using everything I can salvage and modify to fit from my donor vehicle. I haven't even been able to find any 3.0 parts to help with the swap so I'm making use of what I have.

I haven't spent a dime from my family budget. This is all from trading and selling parts.

With help from this forum and experts like you guys, I'm going to make this happen. Hopefully I have something to contribute when I'm done.

kiyobrown

Scoop isn't expensive. It bolts down. I painted mine black. Not a big deal. And why does your crossmember not line up anymore? I did a 22re- 5vze swap. I used stock crossmember holes when I swapped my w56 for an R150f.

Check last page of my build thread for link to scoop.

7m4x4dude

Never knew the 5vze had clearence issues in the pre 89 body style. I slipped a 7mge into my 87 with no issues with the hood or crossmember. Tho my rad install was very close. Electric fan was the only option.

aztoyman

If I had no exhaust crossover I could probably slide my engine back enough for the crossmember holes to line up.

ORS said I would have to move my engine forward about 3 inches and that is about right.

When I swapped my W56 for the R151F it was a direct bolt in. The shifter locations were way different but, everything else fit perfect.

kiyobrown, you used same crossmember? Exhaust cleared firewall? What year truck?
Got any pics or info on your scoop?

7m4x4dude, I have lots of room in front of my engine. Plenty of room for fan and shroud.

aztoyman

Found the hood scoop info. I like it. Going out to the garage to raise er up a bit.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Take some dang pictures man, we're simple folks who like pretty pictures.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

with a 22re to 5vz, You get the 3vz v6 transmission t case, crossmember and drivelines. From there you cut the motor mounts off the frame and move them back about 4" on the block part of the mount.

aztoyman

THAT's where my crossmember issue is. I wouldn't have an issue with the R150F. I'm running an R151F with a R150F bell housing.

The 22RE mounts are cut off and the new mounts will be further back.

Vasinvictor I am taking pics. I'm old and had to get my daughter to come over and get me setup for an image host. Got it figured out now. Pics will be coming.

By the way, I raised up my engine and was going to mark the hood for a scoop and it still clears. I just had to cut down the throttle cable bracket.

I'm going to do some more measuring and make sure my suspension won't hit at full stuff.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Why did you cut them off? Just the engine mounts had to be cut and moved. PM deathcougar as I helped him with his crawler swap using the turbo transmission.

aztoyman

Yeah, I cut off the 22RE mounts? They sure don't line up with the 3.4.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I mean the crossmember mounts. That way all you had the do was cut the mounts apart. Bolt them to the mounts on the motor and attach the motor to trans. Slowly center and lower the motor till the mounts touch the box part of the mounts on the frame. Then get some tacs on the mounts, unbolt them from the motor mounts and remove the motor so you can finish the welds.

If you do it like this the transmission/transfer case don't move allowing you to retain your turbo trans position and drivelines.

aztoyman

Man I wish. I tried that. I used a cutoff wheel on my die grinder and carefully cut my mounts off "the box" thats left from the IFS. Keep in mind I don't have 3.0 mounts.

The exhaust crossover is converted to the drivers side and tucked in pretty good. It still contacts the firewall with my T-case crossmember in stock location.

The crossmember is about 2 3/4" forward and the exhaust is about 1/2" from touching fire wall at the closest point. Right in front of A/C and heater.

I fabbed up some mounts to set the bottom of front half of my oil pan even with the bottom of the frame rail. I now get full suspension travel without hitting my oil pan and my hood closes. I had to cut off what was left of the IFS "box" to use the 3.4 mounts.

Tomorrow I am going to pull the engine and "clearance" my firewall with a hammer in the tight area. I'll bolt my mounts on the engine and set it down on the frame rails and see how far I can slide it back.

I am taking pics and I now know how to post them. I promise to post up. Thanks for all the input!

aztoyman

Ok heres some pics I've been promising.

Here's where my crossmember sits. About 2 3/4" off.



You can see I'll be dog legging my shifter. The hole with the blue seat will be covered. It is for a forward shift case. Not using it anymore. You can't even see my rear case. I wanted to run a triple shifter so I don't have to cut the floor back more but, I don't think it will clear the tunnel.

If it were a R150F, my shifter would be located about where the blue seat is. So the 3.0 R150F with an adapter for gear drive cases would have been the way to go if I didn't already have my 151.



Here's where I need to "clearance" my firewall. I marked the area with a sharpie. I have plenty of room in the center and will be putting my heat shield back on. I will be wrapping some other areas and yes finishing my welds.




Plenty of room up front. Just need to find a 3.0 fan.



Trimmed off the cruise control part of the throttle cable bracket and the hood closes.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Dumb question, are you using a V6 or 4cyl crossmember?