I guess I'm not sure which problem you're fighting. You say you hear the starter "whirl". Is the starter in fact turning? Or just the solenoid engaging?

If the solenoid is engaging, then that indicates that you have STA all the way to the solenoid connection of the starter.

Is the starter turning the motor? That needs the large current-carrying wire from the battery B directly to the high-current terminal of the starter.

 

I hear a whirl, not sure if its the fuel pump (kinda sounds slightly different) I have power from teh large power cable to the starter. Starter is not turning nor is the engine. Need to check the STA pin in the start position. Also going to trace the wire from the ignition to the starter pin see if anything is hapening there. Might be snow boarding again this weekend. Next week its suppose to be nice again so I will get in the garage next week.

 

I'm not there so I can't tell what you're hearing. Others hear the fuel pump, I don't.

You need to verify that 12V is on the solenoid terminal of the starter when the key is in the START position. Because you have the high current terminal wired with constant 12V, that is all that can be left. If 12V appears on the small terminal during START and you don't get starter rotation, then something is wrong with starter, motor is locked, or something else.

I had a similar problem to what you describe. I made sure that "STA" went everywhere it needed to go except, at the time, I didn't realize that STA was on the driver's side as in my earlier post. Once I connected the solenoid terminal directly with the rest of STA junction in the kick panel, she fired up.

 

Checkin' in. DO you get a "start" yet?

 

No, not yet, was blizzarding for 2 days this week, and now work is sending to alberquerque, New mexico for a few weeks. So it will be awhile before I get to get out to the garage.

 

the wire you grounded here is not a ground, you ran power back to the main fuse box (red wire) and then grounded it (original power wire)

If I am wrong, someone feel free to correct me, just an observation

 

The red cable I ran is not a ground it is power from the battery on the other side of the engine bay. It replaces the old cable that went from the battery that used to sit there.

By the way sorry nothing has happened with this. Work has had me out of state for over a month and a half and then a recent death in the family has had me out of state again. Looking forwared to working on this again. So close yet so far.

 

i think he's talking about the black bundle that comes out of the same place in the fuse box and looks like it is grounded to the fender wall. looks like stock to me. sorry for your loss. i lost my mom unexpectedly around this time last year. losing family is so hard. looking forward to seeing you make some progress again!

 

You grounded the old cable that is in the picture also. I see that you ran the red to the battery. I am talking about the old cable attached to the fender well. Sorry to hear about your loss.

 

Hmm. I will have to double check that. But I did cut the old cable that went in then put a lug on the red cable and put it where the old cable was.

 

Out in the garage this weekend tracing starter wires and such. Someone ran their car into my garage so I didn't get to do as much as I wanted due to the fact I had to clean around the garage door and hide all my tools. And by the way ColoradoToy that ground in the picture was removed a long time ago that picture showed the new cable but before I had removed the old cable.

 

the 3.4 starter signal wire runs in the loom that runs to the front bottom of the engine then run up to a plug on the fenderwell on the 3.4 vehicle. On the 3.0 it goes into the engine wire harness and to the ecu. So run a new wire from the starter relay to where the starter wire runs to the fender well or run a new wire straight to the starter.

the afm sent a signal to the cor to turn it on with the 3.0 As does the maf from the 3.4 look at the both ecu ewds and trace them. This way, your fp isn't running the whole time your key is on.

 

Thanks that is the point were I am at as of now. Unfortunately I left my diagrams at home today.

 

Ok progress today was good. I got the engine to crank over. Such a sweet sound. All my starting issues were the fact that I didn't splice my connector into the starter. Really kinda pissed it took me this long to see that I forgot that. Still doesn't start now cause the fuel pump isn't getting power. Where did you guys splice in the Fuel Pump?

 

i'm having the same issue with getting the fuel pump and the stock 3.0 COR Relay to work correctly. you can do this to get fuel to the engine...

green / yellow = FC (Air Flow Meter) GROUND this. This should activate the pump with the ign turned on the second click. however the pump is always running which i know isn't correct.

or you can

light blue = FP (Check Connector) (Fuel Pump) If you connect with
Hot wire the pump will come on. Doesn’t seem like Relay is clicking – Hooked up to hot switch with IGN on and seems normal. But doesn’t seem correct.

 

Ok I will check that out. I'm half way tempted to hot wire the fuel pump.

 

Ok. So I went out and tried to get the fuel pump going. No luck. Anyone got any ideas?

 

first jump the fuel pump wire so that you know its operational and functioning correctly.

If it comes on with direct power then just come out of the ecm trigger wire that turns it on and go through a relay (stock 3.4 COR is good) to control it.

I didnt even mess with the stock 3.0 COR. It just seemed entirely too complicated and the 3.4 setup is simple.

 

did you try both methods? do it from the 3.0 dash harness side. Not the 3.4 engine harness side.

 

You must be refering to the drivers side kick panel where the other fuse box is. I found I have power to all the appropriate places. Other then that I couldn't seem to find where the fuel pump wires come up on that side. I did try the methods you said but they didn't seem to work.

Thanks guys for the help. She is getting close.