LoLz! That would be so damn funny, and it would be nice if that's the issue. Keep us in the loop.

 

wow.. no offense but you guys are really making this more complicated than it needs to be. I left the 3.0 cor alone. The only thing i had to do was solder the Fc ecu signal to the signal wire that goes up to the cor and it works.

 

I would agree I had my issues with the whole COR. But I solved my issue by switching over to the 3.4 COR which a few people have as well. Just trying to help the brother out on his issue. But yes in theory it should be straight forward.

 

haha.. yeah in theory.. and in theory i should be getting laid every saturday night... but.. that ain't happening... Good luck guys.

 

"I set my standards low, so I'm rarely ever disappointed"

 

The problem becomes the fact that it is wired correctly and isn't starting. But this is getting put off again as my Lexus just lost its alternator and is shredding some wires on the drivers side front tire. So I have to get that all taken care of before working on this. Can't give to much attention to one car as the others seem to get jealous.

 

Well plugging in the fuel pump didn't do it. Yet I have made some great progress and need to run it past you guys. The L wire off of the fuel pump. I found that if I connect it to the L wire off of the computer it only works while cranking. But if I connect it to the W-R wire then it is switched power from the key in the on position. So then when the truck is running the fuel pump would be on. But if I connect it to the L wire then it would die soon as its done cranking.

So I would connect it to the W-R wire correct? Or Both L and W-R?
Another thing is the L wire off of the COR and Computer is only putting out 10 volts where as the W-R is putting out 12.3 ish. Need to get some gas in this thing and see if she starts up. Looking like she will after this one wire gets connected.

 

im a confused.

I will have to check my wiring notes. I can get them to you tomorrow. The grn/yellow from the 3.0 dashside connector should go to the 3.4 grn/yellow.

Then hook up the 3.4 Cor Relay like I have it on my little write up. I think the Blue or L fuel pump wire isn't connected to the harness at all since it doesn't exist on/in the 3.4 harness.

 

Hmmm. My L wire is also on the 3.4 harness and goes to the computer labeled as FP. When I connect it the Fuel Pump comes on. I connected it. And the pump just ran and ran but never started. Full of gas. Has me a little puzzled.

 

I dont get it. You hooked the wire that runs to the fuel pump directly the the FC wire from the ecm and the pump started?

Wire it like this:

 

www.n0cturnal-labs.org/philes/misc/toyota/yota-pdfs.rar

I've attached all my documentation above for my swap. Download it and check it out. This may open up some ideas for you. If you don't have Word installed you can download the viewer here...
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en

going over my notes the " light blue = FP (Check Connector) Unpinned From Connector"

 

Yes. Off the top of my head that is correct to how I wired mine. The 86 and 30 are connected to a W-R wire. The 87 is a L (has red dots) wire. And 85 is a L wire. The 87a wire is W-B and like DemonKid says is not attached to anything. I attached my L from the fuel pump to the L wire and it only worked in the "starting position". So then I attached the L wire from the fuel pump to the W-R wire and it funs the fuel pump every time the key is in the "On" position.
As I have Macs at home I don't know if I can view it but will try. Here at work they are blocking the site. Judging by my results with the blue wire I can see why you did have it unpinned. By the way pm'ed you.

Working on my Lexus again this week. Fixing some little stuff (TPS) will get back to the 4Runner later this week. Thanks guys

 

Yes. Off the top of my head that is correct to how I wired mine. The 86 and 30 are connected to a W-R wire. The 87 is a L (has red dots) wire. (THIS SHOULD BE THE WIRE TO THE FUEL PUMP ITSELF FROM YOUR EXISTING VEHCILE)

And 85 is a L wire. (THIS IS WHERE I THINK THAT YOU ARE WRONG. ACCORDING TO MY DIAGRAMS, THE FC (LEAD OFF THE ECM (FUEL CONTROL I ASSUME) IS WHAT ENERGIZES THE RELAY SINCE THE OTHER SIDE OF THE COIL INSIDE THE RELAY IS GETTING POWER FROM THE W-R WIRE FROM THE EFI RELAY/FUSE. I THINK THAT IF YOU HOOK UP THE GREEN/YELLOW WIRE FROM YOUR ECM TO 85 ON THE RELAY, EVERYTHING WILL WORK CORRECTLY.)

The 87a wire is W-B and like DemonKid says is not attached to anything. DONT EVEN PUT ANYTHING ON THE 87A LEAD

I attached my L from the fuel pump to the L wire and it only worked in the "starting position". So then I attached the L wire from the fuel pump to the W-R wire and it funs the fuel pump every time the key is in the "On" position.THATS BECAUSE YOU ARE BASICALLY BYPASSING THE RELAY AND RUNNING POWER STRAIGHT TO THE FUEL PUMP SINCE THE W-R IS HOT WITH IGNITION.

Take a look at this:
You are not using the separate ignition circuit with the B-L wire. We are just tying the W-R together across terminals 1 and 5 of the relay which is fine.

 

Well? What's happened? Been watching and reading this for awhile and you disappeared..... Is it running, and what was the wiring prob?

 

I haven't been out there but I will be out there this weekend. Been working on my Lexus (seeing as it is my DD, kinda has to be running.) Then OT at work. This is one of the first and last weekends I will have for 3 weeks. Will update soon as I have some results.

 

Well she Runs, Idles, and sounds like a race car (due to the fact that I have to put the manifolds on. the issue was a loss of voltage through my combination meter. The voltage gauge was causeing it to drop for some reason. I have yet to put the truck in gear, but the truck starts and idles great. Still have to clean up the wiring and put the dash together and drop the truck off for exhaust work.

 

I have a 93 Toyota P/U that I put a 3.4 L engine from a 1997 T100. I used an OFF Road Solutions conversion kit and things went fairly well. The problem I am having is that when I plug in the plug for vapor pressure sensor on the EVAP canister, the engine dies like fuel starvation. I am absolutely sure I have the correct EVAP canister for my VIN. When I remove the plug from the vapor pressure sensor switch, the engine starts right up and runs well. I am out of good ideas on what is causing this. Does anyone have a suggestion?

 

Well welcome to Yotatech. I feel your question would be better answered in your own thread. A little more information would be nice as well. Where are you located? Do you need to pass emissions? If not I would leave it undone and run it that way as ORS is gone and I don't know how they did their wiring.

 

So getting parts together to finish up the exhaust, so the shop has all the parts. As for the O2 sensor. I have a 2001 I found 1 O2 sensor plug but I thought these engines had 2 sensors. Anyone know for sure. Gotta buy the new gasket for the exhaust manifold today. Cleaned up the wiring for its final resting position. I wanna get this exhaust done so I can leave it running and get a complete check out that everything is good.

 

WTF!! No updates on this!

The new Call of Duty is coming and then I know that you will never finish this thing after that!!!!