2001 5vz-fe Swap into a 93 4Runner
#181
oh you have an 87. Try this then...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...fusion-193839/
This guy has an 86 which is closer to your year, i'm running a 92 truck.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...fusion-193839/
This guy has an 86 which is closer to your year, i'm running a 92 truck.
#183
oh okay the Avatar threw me off for a second.. Then do this. Take a test light and probe the fuel pump relay. Once you hit the Grn/Yellow wire on the COR the pump should activate.
Oh and this is going to sound stupid, but at this stage anything is possible. You might have blown the ECU fuse in the engine bay fuse box. This will cause the fuel pump not to come on. I blew my ECU fuse, and took me a few to figure out why COR didn't have power.
Oh and this is going to sound stupid, but at this stage anything is possible. You might have blown the ECU fuse in the engine bay fuse box. This will cause the fuel pump not to come on. I blew my ECU fuse, and took me a few to figure out why COR didn't have power.
#184
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Very true about the fuses. I have been checking all of them to make sure they are still good. As far as I know the COR is still going because I can hear it clicking. The fuel pump relay is supposed to be under the drivers side kick panel correct?
Last edited by yodathespian87; Jun 7, 2010 at 03:24 PM.
#186

Check Page 6 on this Thread. But any how that's the hole / location of the stock 3.0 COR. Remove the COR, and take your test light. If you touch a test light to the grn/ylw wire on the COR the pump should come on.
#187
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Yeah I was looking at that earlier today. I was talking about the fuel pump relay. I heard that it is on the drivers side kick panel. I was looking by the fuses down there but didn't see anything. The TIS diagrams just show a bunch of power window stuff down there. Thanks Demonkid for the help.
#188
Hey Yoda I think that you are confusing the location of the two different years.
The 89-95 COR is above the ECM in the passenger kick panel. ON the 96+ models its in the driver's kick attached to the bottom of the fuse panel.
COR=Fuel pump relay
Cant remember if you have the whole donor vehicle there or not. If so, grab it from the bottom of the fuse panel and just use that. IF not, I would still just use a Bosch sytle relay readily available at any car stereo/security shop/Best Buy and hook it up. Should work fine.
Man I feel your frustration.
Jason
The 89-95 COR is above the ECM in the passenger kick panel. ON the 96+ models its in the driver's kick attached to the bottom of the fuse panel.
COR=Fuel pump relay
Cant remember if you have the whole donor vehicle there or not. If so, grab it from the bottom of the fuse panel and just use that. IF not, I would still just use a Bosch sytle relay readily available at any car stereo/security shop/Best Buy and hook it up. Should work fine.
Man I feel your frustration.
Jason
#189
Originally Posted by dntsdad
first jump the fuel pump wire so that you know its operational and functioning correctly.
Which wire are you talking about, the L-B wire or the W-B wire? Because yesterday I found that I have a blue wire from my engine harness with 10-12 volts when the key in turned on that is a blue wire.
The wire TO THE FUEL PUMP. It is grounded at the tank of course, so applying 12+ to the feed wire should turn it on. Its really no different that any other simple electrical circuit such as a light, an amplifier, or a CB radio. Constant ground and switched power to turn on
I want to say a blue wire(L) if my memory serves. W-B is almost always ground in a Toyota as far as I know. Follow the blue wire coming from the sill area into the kick panel and then into the output of the COR. As I have said, I never used the 3.0 COR so I cut the blue wire at the 3.0 COR and soldered it to the output of the 3.4 COR.
If it comes on with direct power then just come out of the ecm trigger wire that turns it on and go through a relay (stock 3.4 COR is good) to control it.
As of know I still have the 3.0 COR.
I dont know how to do it with the 3.0 COR. Evoltra's thread had a write up I though. Again, the 3.4 methods is so simple a caveman could do it so I do not see the reason to put any effort into figuring the 3.0 out. Maybe I am missing an advantage however. I am NO expert by any means!!!
I didnt even mess with the stock 3.0 COR. It just seemed entirely too complicated and the 3.4 setup is simple.What was the difference that made it complicated? Mine seems to be working fine.
The 3.0 COR had to run through a few different circuits or something. I cant remember now but to simply acticate a fuel pump, in a one wire switching system, the 3.4 COR was just too simple. There were enough difficult things along the way on mine, so a nice easy solution was taken and seized.
first jump the fuel pump wire so that you know its operational and functioning correctly.
Which wire are you talking about, the L-B wire or the W-B wire? Because yesterday I found that I have a blue wire from my engine harness with 10-12 volts when the key in turned on that is a blue wire.
The wire TO THE FUEL PUMP. It is grounded at the tank of course, so applying 12+ to the feed wire should turn it on. Its really no different that any other simple electrical circuit such as a light, an amplifier, or a CB radio. Constant ground and switched power to turn on
I want to say a blue wire(L) if my memory serves. W-B is almost always ground in a Toyota as far as I know. Follow the blue wire coming from the sill area into the kick panel and then into the output of the COR. As I have said, I never used the 3.0 COR so I cut the blue wire at the 3.0 COR and soldered it to the output of the 3.4 COR.
If it comes on with direct power then just come out of the ecm trigger wire that turns it on and go through a relay (stock 3.4 COR is good) to control it.
As of know I still have the 3.0 COR.
I dont know how to do it with the 3.0 COR. Evoltra's thread had a write up I though. Again, the 3.4 methods is so simple a caveman could do it so I do not see the reason to put any effort into figuring the 3.0 out. Maybe I am missing an advantage however. I am NO expert by any means!!!
I didnt even mess with the stock 3.0 COR. It just seemed entirely too complicated and the 3.4 setup is simple.What was the difference that made it complicated? Mine seems to be working fine.
The 3.0 COR had to run through a few different circuits or something. I cant remember now but to simply acticate a fuel pump, in a one wire switching system, the 3.4 COR was just too simple. There were enough difficult things along the way on mine, so a nice easy solution was taken and seized.
#190
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Thanks Dntsdad I was confusing the years. Reading through all these threads again I'm starting to mix up some of the info.
Thanks so much guys I will check this out next week unfortunately. I'm heading back to Vegas for my brothers graduation and mini vacation.
Thanks so much guys I will check this out next week unfortunately. I'm heading back to Vegas for my brothers graduation and mini vacation.
#191
DTS: how do you have the 3.4 COR wired up? I just ran to autozone and cross referenced the toyota part number to. Autozone 19997 "Relay" 5.99 out the door. I just unpinned the stock connector so i can plug it up and test it.
#192
Demon
Assuming you have the factory harness for the relay:
I went the two W-L wires to ignition(Like all the others)
L-O to the fuel pump (output of the relay)
G-Y from the ECM
If you do not have the factory harness:
Applying this to a standard Bosch style relay from any audio shop for $5

85 > from the ECM
86 and 30 > to ignition (W-L)
87 > to the wire to the fuel pump
Again, I happened to have the whole donor vehicle here so i used the stock 3.4 COR. If I wouldnt have, after looking at the EWD, I would have simply used a Bosch (not a cheap ass Chinese) relay.
Here is a diagram for the 97 RUnner:
http://home.comcast.net/~dntsdad/TR1ec5VZ97.pdf
On page 3 & 4 (72 &73), it shows how simple the circuit is.
I'll bet that relay that you are buying is nothing more that the same thing as a standard Bosch, just in a different casing to plug into the Runner/Tacoma fusepanel.
Yoda: I am realy feeling sorry for you that you HAVE to go to Vegas
Assuming you have the factory harness for the relay:
I went the two W-L wires to ignition(Like all the others)
L-O to the fuel pump (output of the relay)
G-Y from the ECM
If you do not have the factory harness:
Applying this to a standard Bosch style relay from any audio shop for $5

85 > from the ECM
86 and 30 > to ignition (W-L)
87 > to the wire to the fuel pump
Again, I happened to have the whole donor vehicle here so i used the stock 3.4 COR. If I wouldnt have, after looking at the EWD, I would have simply used a Bosch (not a cheap ass Chinese) relay.
Here is a diagram for the 97 RUnner:
http://home.comcast.net/~dntsdad/TR1ec5VZ97.pdf
On page 3 & 4 (72 &73), it shows how simple the circuit is.
I'll bet that relay that you are buying is nothing more that the same thing as a standard Bosch, just in a different casing to plug into the Runner/Tacoma fusepanel.
Yoda: I am realy feeling sorry for you that you HAVE to go to Vegas
#193
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 654
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Great information there guys. Yeah "HAVING" to go to Vegas has long lost its luster as I was born and raised there, 19 years. As I don't have the 3.4 donor vehicle or the 3.4 COR. So the signal wire from the ECM is the FC wire right? On Evoltas thread he was saying that he ground that one out. By the way great to know I can just go get a Bosch replacement relay.
#194
Yota: I got it working! Woot! Woot! I will display my findings as a sticky. It's pretty simple with the 3.4 relay i couldn't figure out the dual power, and no grounds. But I got!
I will probably post it in the morning...
I will probably post it in the morning...
#196
cool. Eager to see what you did Demon.
Yes, Yoda. The FC (fuel control i assume) from the ECM is a ground and is what triggers, or energizes, the relay cause the circuit to close and thus applying voltage through the relay to the fuel pump. Thats what it appears to me anyway. I cant see it any other way but I have been wrong many times before.
Yes, Yoda. The FC (fuel control i assume) from the ECM is a ground and is what triggers, or energizes, the relay cause the circuit to close and thus applying voltage through the relay to the fuel pump. Thats what it appears to me anyway. I cant see it any other way but I have been wrong many times before.
#197
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51469010
Check it out.
Check it out.
#198
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Thanks for the link. Iwas out at the 4Runner yesterday to do the COR G-Y wire and behold it was already soldered up correctly under there. So now I have to figure out why its not working... And what the other wires go to/ come from as I need to make sure those are correct.



