2001 5vz-fe Swap into a 93 4Runner
#141
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Well went out to the garage after work, took a look at the wires and everything looked pretty good. So gave it a shot, heard the fuel pump going. (This time I decided to push in the clutch and turn the key, that sure helps out!!!) Heard bubbling, I'm guessing from the EVAP tank outlet on the passenger side inner fender (I have it uncapped)But I have no starter! I routed a line from the starter to the STA pin, but do I need to route a line from the EFI relay to the STA pin?
#142
There was a large black/white wire in the passenger kick panel.
I ran my own 12 gauge wire to the starter into the kick panel. I could never figure out the routing of the 3.4 starter wire by looking at the manuals and couldn't remember from taking the Runner apart.
There is a small black/white wire off the STA terminal of the ECM (E13....I think).
I joined all those together and it worked fine.
I just jumped my clutch position switch wires since I now have auto. Truck thinks the clutch is in.
I ran my own 12 gauge wire to the starter into the kick panel. I could never figure out the routing of the 3.4 starter wire by looking at the manuals and couldn't remember from taking the Runner apart.
There is a small black/white wire off the STA terminal of the ECM (E13....I think).
I joined all those together and it worked fine.
I just jumped my clutch position switch wires since I now have auto. Truck thinks the clutch is in.
Last edited by dntsdad; Jan 13, 2010 at 03:41 PM.
#143
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Well I still have manual. I looked specifically for the manual 3.4, the large black wire with the white stripe. I noticed it went under the 4Runner. Somewhere by the transmission the is a grouping of wires. But I spliced it with the small blk. and wht. wire. But I find it hard to believe that that small wire to power the starter.
#144
3.0 COR

Was mounted in that empty hole

3.4 COR

I unplugged the 3.0 relay and ran the blue wire from the 3.4 COR to the blue wire on the harness going to the 3.0 COR.

Was mounted in that empty hole

3.4 COR

I unplugged the 3.0 relay and ran the blue wire from the 3.4 COR to the blue wire on the harness going to the 3.0 COR.
Last edited by dntsdad; Jan 16, 2010 at 08:38 AM.
#145
Mine had a large black/white wire in the kick panel in one of the ih plugs.
I ran my own starter wire from the starter to the kickpanel.
Grabbed the small wire from the STA pin on the ECM.
Joined all those together and soldered them up.
Seems to work ok as it did start.
I ran my own starter wire from the starter to the kickpanel.
Grabbed the small wire from the STA pin on the ECM.
Joined all those together and soldered them up.
Seems to work ok as it did start.
#146
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oh ok. I don't have a 3.4 COR relay but it sounds like I got the 3.0 to work. As for the B-W wire I will connect it up with the starter wire and see what happens. Going to work on the hood a little more today. Put some more bondo on it and need to sand that.
#147
k ive tried to keep up with yall in the whole wiring deal tryin to learn what i can before i start the 3.4 swap....i failed. my heads about to blow up.
im so lost idk if i can find my way home.
im still looking for the harness but i want to know what to do when i get it and start wiring it up.
is there a 3.4 swap manual for dummies??
how much would it cost for somebody to wire it up or do you think it would be a waste of money?
any info would help.
Thanks,
Scott
im so lost idk if i can find my way home.
im still looking for the harness but i want to know what to do when i get it and start wiring it up.
is there a 3.4 swap manual for dummies??
how much would it cost for somebody to wire it up or do you think it would be a waste of money?
any info would help.
Thanks,
Scott
#148
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
This site is as close as you are going to get with a 3.4 swap for dummies. The mechanical side is easy as for the wiring I'm trying to make that as easy for readers to understand what I'm doing but there are plenty of folks who are willing to help. As for someone doing it for you there are a few folks that are free lance in that department. And prices for that seem to range from $400 - $800+. When you print out the diagrams and learn where each wire goes and that it matches the 3.0 diagram its pretty much a connect the dots thing. i personally do everything myself to save money cause I don't have any. If you don't have a problem spending the money, then it may be easier for you to spend it. Though I encourage you to try to do it yourself. 
As for my project sorry I haven't posted. Been working on my Lexus. With cold weather, and numerous projects this one took a back seat for a bit. I will hopefully be getting back to it later this week.

As for my project sorry I haven't posted. Been working on my Lexus. With cold weather, and numerous projects this one took a back seat for a bit. I will hopefully be getting back to it later this week.
#149
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Went out to the 4Runner for awhile. Here is what I have found. I have power to the starter yet it won't spin. I have a group of wires hanging from my transmission. I can hear the fuel pump whirling away when I have the key turned and a bunch of clicking of things over in my passenger side. I need to splice in my VSS or get a 3.4 VSS. Need to splice in my brake booster connector. Need a exhaust sensor. But this power to the starter yet no starter is weird. I was looking at the Haines manual and checked my starter, and according to Haines, It could be my neutral position switch, clutch cancel, or something else. And I canceled out the clutch cancel switch. I'm leaning with the neutral position switch as it is likely one of those wires hanging from my transmission. Yet I jumpered them to the wire I thought and nothing different happened. Any input?
#151
The large diameter cable to the stud has 12V all the time as it's a direct connection from the battery. The "trigger" is 12V to the smaller connector when the key is in "START" position. That's also the STA circuit that runs to the COR, ECU,etc.
Do you have power at both starter connectors at appropriate times and no starter spin? If that's true, then missing a motor to ground or frame to ground?
Do you have power at both starter connectors at appropriate times and no starter spin? If that's true, then missing a motor to ground or frame to ground?
#152
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
I have power to the starter, but as for the ground from the starter or ground from the engine. From the engine I would have to double check. My guess is that it is a painted or "dirty" ground. I will check that out. Good reminder.
#153
I could never find the starter trigger wire in the 3.4 harness.
I ran my own wire from the trigger for the starter; joined that to the STA terminal and the large black/white wire on one of the plugs in the kick panel.
Good call on the grounds GJCruiser. I over grounded for sure. I have a 2 ga ground from the battery to the block, a 2 ga from the block to the frame, and a 4 ga to the body from the block, and a 4ga from the bat to the body.
I still dont think that would cause to have nothing when engaged. Maybe a week spin, but nothing??
I ran my own wire from the trigger for the starter; joined that to the STA terminal and the large black/white wire on one of the plugs in the kick panel.
Good call on the grounds GJCruiser. I over grounded for sure. I have a 2 ga ground from the battery to the block, a 2 ga from the block to the frame, and a 4 ga to the body from the block, and a 4ga from the bat to the body.
I still dont think that would cause to have nothing when engaged. Maybe a week spin, but nothing??
#154
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Yeah dntsdad you do run a seperate wire to the STA pin on the ECM. Then I connected the large Blk. and Wht. wire back up to it's self as I had cut it awhile back. My dad had also suggested ensuring that the battery is charged enough.The amperage may not be enough to turn it over. All things I should check and rule out.
So close to getting it going! And yet so far.
So close to getting it going! And yet so far.
#155
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Ok. So looking at the grounding wire, it's good clean and snug, the battery passed the head light test and looks good. Then tracing my wires I noticed that I have the blk. wire from the alternator to the STA pin on my ECM. Why I don't know. But my guess is I did this before I read all my diagrams. So now where does thins guy go. And then I just splice in the small wire at the starter and hook it up to my STA pin at my ECM right. Here are some pics.

The wire from the alternator runs through here at the front and bottom of the engine.

Here is on the passenger side, in the engine bay. That brown connector is the 3.0 starter wire, I need to splice the STA pin into the 3.4 connector wire, Correct?
The wire from the alternator runs through here at the front and bottom of the engine.
Here is on the passenger side, in the engine bay. That brown connector is the 3.0 starter wire, I need to splice the STA pin into the 3.4 connector wire, Correct?
#156
I am a bit confused but I think that the black wire from the alt going to your starter circuit is wrong.
That large black/white wire in your kick panel should get "hot" with the key turned to start. If you ran a wire yourself from the starter trigger terminal (the small one) into the kick panel and joined the black/white wire, the wire you ran from the starter and the STA terminal, it wont start?
That large black/white wire in your kick panel should get "hot" with the key turned to start. If you ran a wire yourself from the starter trigger terminal (the small one) into the kick panel and joined the black/white wire, the wire you ran from the starter and the STA terminal, it wont start?
#157
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
See I didn't do that. The blk. wire from the alternator I have no idea what he does. Now need to check the diagram. The small wire I need to splice to the STA pin. Is my guess thats why I hear it whirl but not engage. The starter wants to start but the syleniod (not spelled right) is not engaging.
#158
If its engaging, getting power to start, then i think you have a bum starter.
In the 3.4 harness that black/white wire ran across from the battery side from the starter relay. SInce you dont have that maybe thats what it is. the old starter wire.
In the 3.4 harness that black/white wire ran across from the battery side from the starter relay. SInce you dont have that maybe thats what it is. the old starter wire.
#159
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From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Ok, checked out the wiring to the starter and its all correct I don't have the alternator hooked up to the starter. I was comparing it to the diagram and the only thing I didn't do was hook it up to the fuse box. This has me baffled.
#160
I would grab a meter. Ground it to the starter body and see if you have voltage at the large lug and the small one when the key is turned to start. If so, you have a bad starter I would think.
Also, check that you have voltage at the bl/w wire in the kick panel along with the STA terminal.
that should get you going I think.
Also, check that you have voltage at the bl/w wire in the kick panel along with the STA terminal.
that should get you going I think.



