hey yoda! maybe we should just turn this into a cod thread? sure are taking your time with this, aren't you?!! my speed sensor was a mechanical vs. the electric from the taco, so i had one wire from the speedometer to the ecu (you want to connect that one), and then three that came from the taco's harness and didn't go to anything. i removed the connector housing down by the tranny, then taped off the ends and folded the wires back into the harness to hide them. the one from the speedo to the ecu is the important one. the ecu power thing is wierd; you should have had a wire in your 4runner's dash harness that supplied power to the 3.0 ecu, which you would have just connected to the corresponding plug (after splicing on the correct connector)on the 3.4 ecu. i did all of my wiring, but its been awhile(13,000 miles) and with the difference in model years, i'm not sure how much help i can be to you, but feel free to pm me if you need to. i don't come here as often as i did when i was doing my own swap; maybe some day i'll finish my own thread!

 

Yeah I do like my COD. This has taken quite awhile for a few reasons. I bought the Lexus and got it going. Bought the second 4runner and been stripping it out/ chopping it up. Sold my pickup after fixing it. So I have had a lot on my plate. And do like camp, and watching football, and drinking... Onto the wiring.
I have connected anything that matches across. Power to power. speedo to speedo. But when I checked my constant power, there was no power. So my friend told me to go from the EFI fuse to it. so tomorrow I'm going to route a wire that way and see if that does anything. Yesterday I put on my hood scope. The tape didn't stick how I wanted, so riveted it down. And put some bondo down. Need to put a little more and sand it. out.

 

i was just screwing with you about how long you're taking. the only reason i got mine done in the time that i did it was it was the only vehicle i had. i had a loaner, but still felt quite a bit of pressure to get it done. good luck with the power.

 

Yeah I'm in no real rush though I would love nothing more then to have it driveable. So that I can move on to my next engine swap.
So I took apart the fuse box and cut the old power cable out. Looked at the EFI fuse saw that the constant power was a B-G wire. Which is what is to my constant power on the ECU so I will have to check the quality of the connection. But its so cold outside (another snow storm, and football is on) So thats it for today.

 

i dont know how you got your wiring diagrams.. but i printed mine out from toyotatechinfo.com and then lined them up and taped the appropriate ones together.. makes the visual a lot easier.

 

Yeah I did that and then I took 4 sheets of paper and labeled all the wiring out by each connector and drew lines from the appropriate connector to the corresponding one. I will post pics when I can. If anyone has there diagram that they made so I can compare that would be great.
And here is how the hood scope looks right now.

 

E5- Connector
1. L-V =Batt to IH1 B-G =Constant power to ECU
2. B-L =IGSW to IK2 B-R =IGSW
3. G-Y =FC to G-Y =Circuit Open Relay To Air Flow
4. X
5. X
6.V =W to IH1 V =Check Engine Light
7. B-W =STA to Stater
8. GR-B =MREL to IH1 B-R =Power To Ignition Coil
9. Y-G =TPC to IK6
10. X
11. W =SIL to OBD2 W =SIL
12. X
13. X
14. X
15. G-W =STP to IH1 G-W =Stop Light Switch to ECU
16. W-L =+B to IH1 W-R = Switched Power
17. Y =PTNK to IK6
18. X
19. X
20. X
21. X
22. X

E6
1. X
2. R-Y =R to IK2 R-B =Park Neutral Switch (Reverse)
3. V-R =2 (2nd Gear?) to
4. Y-G =IDLO to IK2 BR =Data Link Connector to Ground and IH1 Y-B = From Cruise Control ECU to Check Conector
5. X
6. L-W =ODMS to Nothing (ADD)
7. Y =OILW to Nothing (ADD)
8. R =OXS to IK2 BR =OXS
9. R-W =HTS to IK2 BR
10. L-O =ODLP to Nothing (ADD)
11. X
12. LG =L (Low Gear?) to
13. L-B =ACT to IH2 B-R A/C Amplifier To Engine ECU
14. X
15. X
16. X
17. R-G =TFN to IK2 W-B = Neutral Position Switch
18. L =4wd Detection Switch
19. L-R =Low 4 Detection Switch to IK2 GR =Low 4 Detection Switch
20. B =
21. X
22. G-O =SP1 to IK2 =G-B =speedometer
23. X
24. BR-Y =OD1 to IH1 Y-B From Cruise Control ECU to Check Connector
25. L-Y =AC1 to IH1 L-B =A/C Amplifier To ECU and Transmission
26. X
27. X
28. X

IH1
1. W-B- GND for the transfer case
2. X
3. V - To Check Engine Light
4. X
5. G-W- Stop LightSW to ECU
6. L - FP In check Connector
7. L-B - a/c amplifier to ECU and transmission
8. B-R - Anti Lock to Check Connector
9. Y-B - From cruise control ECU to check connector
10. B-G - Constant power for ECU
11. X
12. W-G - Ground for ECU
13. X
14. B-R -Power to ignition coil
15. X
16. W-R - Switched Power
17. X
18. X
19. X
20. G-L- Speed sensor
21. X
22. B-W- Starter to starter relay
23. G-Y - Circuit open relay to air flow
24. X

IH2
1. X
2. G-W - Transfer Oil pressure Sw
3. X
4. X
5. L - a/c amplifier to engine ECU
6. B-R - a/c amplifier to engine ECU
7. R-W - trans. R-W
8. B-BR - trans. B-BR
9. X
10. G-Y - ADD indicator SW to 4 wd light
11. Y-L - Oil pressure sender
12. X
13. G-L - Vehicle speed sensor
14. Y-G - Water temp.
15. B-W - a/c amplifier to engine ECU
16. X
17. X
18. X
19. G-R - trans G-R
20. B - ignitor to a/c amplifier

There is also the body Harness pin out I have yet to put on here.


Here is the wiring diagram I'm going off of.

And another of the same thing.

 

this may help.. i ended up takin a sheet of paper, just labeling the pins that were actually used on the body plugs. No pins that are empty cause thats confusing. So once you identify what those write the pins of the 4th plug that goes from body to ecu and identify those. Once i had those. I went down the list of the wires that were identified and took tape and wrote down the id and pin # and labeled each of the wires i had. Once all the wires were labeled for the ecu plug and body plugs, i started to join the common wires between the body plugs and ecu plug wires. once those are joined, i repined the 3.0 body plugs from the the 3.0 engine harness with the matching wires from the 3.4 plug *some of the wires you cant repin, wire gauge is different so i joined them with solder and then used heat shrink on em. Use a high lighter pen to "cross out" the wires you have matched and are sure on. I believe some of the power wires get joined from body plug to ecu plug AND engine harness. That may be your issue. I had the print outs from the 3.0 ecu ewd and 3.4 ecu ewd and followed the wires on both. Any questions man just pm me i just finished a 97 3.4 into a 91 truck.

 

Yeah, I'm not re-pining any of the connectors I cut the connectors off of the engine harness and are attaching them to the body plugs via solder. Then taping and heat shrink and what ever else I need to do to keep them protected and some what organized. I will keep editing the diagram post to be up to date and correct. As for the power issue I have found that I have the power hooked up right so next time I'm out there I have to check the EFI wire that I am reusing in the body harness and make sure it's the same all the way through. by the way does my diagram above make any sense to you guys? It's kinda hard to relay the info to a type-able format.

 

if you repin the wires you can you save yourself a lot of time for soldering. its really easy to do. a lot cleaner. Your lines crossing everywhere gives me a headache.. i cant' imagine how it makes you feel.

 

Ok so I have been on vacation for a few weeks and then the weather here is crazy cold. So this hasn't been getting any attention. So I need to work on my Lexus and then I will return to this.
As for re pinning the connectors I already had cut wires from the yard so just went that route.

 

Ok, it has been to long. Well I got out of work early due to the great weather I said I need a few hours. Was out working on the Lexus and then headed over to the garage. I connected my grounds and my wiring looks complete. So I plugged in the battery and turned the key. I had lights to the dash, the buzz, then I heard a click over on the passenger side. Anyone know what that might be? Nothing happened when I turned the key, but I got a double click over on the passenger side. I have my ignitor, MAF sensor, and a few other parts over there. Just trying to think what that may be I noticed I also didn't hear a fuel pump going..Hmmm. Any input?

 

looking good man , maybe the clicking you hear is the COR relay. You also said you dont here the fuel pump .

 

Ya COR relay is mounted above where the pass speaker would be. Heater relay is up there to i think....or is it just a fuse. cant remember.

I took mine out. I am going to try to use the 3.4 cor as it seems a simpler design....basically just a normal relay.

 

I'm not familiar with a "COR" so is the click normal? Howe did you guys get the fuel pump to work?

 

What i did tonight is unbolt the COR and its bracket from from the body. Its a 10mm bolt right by the heater relay. Unplug the actual relay but dont disturb any of the wires. The take the blue wire going to the relay and strip about an inch or so of insulation back and connect the blue wire coming from the 3.4 COR to it. Wrap that and solder/shrink tubing/tape

This engages the fuel pump perfectly.

 

Ok thats great to know. But I still don't know what that is. If so I'm drawing a complete blank. What does that stand for? Thanks for the help. You get yours going yet?

 

COR is circuit opening relay. best I can tell its a fancy name for fuel pump relay.

The 3.0 COR intergrates through the MAF i think or something like that. We wont have that anymore with the 3.4 so I decided to get rid of the 3.0 COR and just use the 3.4. There is a pin out of the 3.4 ECM that goes to the COR to engage the fuel pump (A-14 on a manual ECM and G-4 on an auto ECM) that wire from the ecm just is the ground signal to the relay to energize the coil and therefore close the relay sending power to the fuel pump.

HOnestly I think that you could use a regular diode protected relay from any car stereo shop and use that to engage the fuel pump. If I didnt have the donor Runner here and could easier rob the COR from it, thats what I would have done.

Got mine started tonight but still have too many loose ends to let it run for much longer than a few seconds.

 

Oh ok. I am running the 3.4 MAF, so I will have to check that out. I'm just trying to get it to the point where I can have it run for a few seconds. Till then its following these random wires.

 

Update about above. It doesnt run with the MAF. It is the AFM that is in the same circuit as the COR. It seemed complicated to me so i just scraped it all as i have said, The 3.4 system is about as easy as it gets. Hell, a caveman could do it!

Check out evoltra's thread i think and search that thread for "COR". A good discussion there about the COR is in there that I referred to and used that info to junk mine.