motoriderbc

Daytime running lights.
It's a resistor pack to lower the output of the high beams for the daytime running light system.

neoworm0

Thank you. I guess I will put it back in then. Cheers.

Tragic Drive

Great job on your swap . Downey makes a nice stainless steel clutch line that's included with their headers, You might be able to purchase this separate . Your battery hold down looks way better than mine and I haven't had any problems in 3 or 4 years so you should be good to go.
I love your trucks stance its really nice.

neoworm0

Thanks. It's essentially done, minus the exhaust. I'm just finishing up a bunch of non swap related wiring before I turn the key. I'm pretty happy with the way it looks so far.

JonnyBoy

So have you fired it up yet?

neoworm0

You must have been writing at the same time I was. No, I haven't. I am finishing up a few things in the cab first. Probably fire it up in the next few days.

JonnyBoy

Sweet! You'll be grinning from ear to ear for the next 2 weeks after that.

neoworm0

I managed to get the interior wrapped up today. Tach mod is done. I redid my locker switches and mounted the OBD II plug.

locker switches:

[IMG][/IMG]

OBD II plug under the radios:

[IMG][/IMG]

Then I dismantled the harness that runs to the tranny. I removed a couple plugs that weren't needed and then loomed the remaining wires in heat resistant convoluted tubing. Then I wrapped that in high temp fibreglass wrap.
Routed it between the crossover and the bellhousing and down the length of the tranny and tcases.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I'll have to extend the pigtails on the O2 sensors to reach the plugs. I'll do that when the exhaust is done. I had to extend the speedo sender plug about 12" as well.

I went to splice in the reverse light switch but realized that the plug for it and the tcase position switch left with my 3.slow. I knew I forgot to cut something off. Luckily the reverse light plug on the 3.4 harness was the same so I cut it off and used it. The tcase pos. switch plug on the 3.4 is different though. I'm going to have to source another plug I guess. I might just replace both ends with some generic plug.

I hooked up the battery and everything appears to have power.

Well I just need to fill it with fluids and bleed the clutch and then I think I'll see if it runs. Should be nice and loud with no exhaust!

neoworm0

It Runs!!!!

It fired right up after I fixed a fuel leak. I turned it over with the igniter disconnected just to circulate the oil. Got out and smelled gas.

Turns out the aluminum fuel line connectors that ORS provide don't seal worth a damn. I wasn't surprised actually. I looked at them before installing them and didn't think they were going to work. The chamfer is totally wrong to mate up with the stock fitting. Not impressed.

I ended up rerouting the 3.4 line down closer to the firewall so it could reach the hard line from the fuel pump and hooked it up directly. No more leak.

It reaches but it is stressing the line more than I would like so I am going to have to figure something else out. I might just make a longer hard line.



However, she seems to run good. Oil pressure gauge works and the tach does too. All the electrical seems good. Once I get an exhaust on it I can really start looking for bugs. Here's a little video complete with a redneck yell of Joy.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85OaYL4yxLo

Godzilla

Congrats! Sounds like a helicopter without the exhaust

JonnyBoy

Very nice! Sounds pretty wicked with open collector, huh?

neoworm0

Ya we were joking that maybe I should just skip the exhaust. LOL.

mt_goat

I had the same problem with the first set of fuel line connectors ORS sent me. They were steel though, then he sent me a set of blue aluminum and they worked good. You sure you tightened them enough?

neoworm0

Mine are blue anodized aluminum and they were definitely tight. When I removed them you could see that they were bottoming out and the chamfer wasn't contacting. They are machined totally wrong to mate with the stock lines.

When I removed the 3.slow I had to cut the fuel line off. I bought a new line already but I am going to use the fittings from the old one to make an extension that will replace the junk that ORS sent me. That should work out fine.

In retrospect the harness and the crossover are excellent but the rest of the kit I could have done without. I didn't end up using a lot of it. Hindsight is always 20/20 though.

Can't wait to get an exhaust and go for a spin.

neoworm0

Well I just tried to pull it out of the garage and it won't go in gear. I think I had the clutch in right the first time. I don't understand how there is so much conflicting info on which way the stupid thing is supposed to go in. Anything else it could be?

I followed the directions in the link that Jonnyboy posted. Jonnyboy if you read this, does your's work?

JonnyBoy

Posted in the other, but in case you see this one first: Yes, my clutch is working fine and I've had it up to 4th on the road goin 45, even roasted a tire on accident.

Only thing I can think of is bleeding.

neoworm0

Allright, I'm in a better mood today. Man was I pissed yesterday! Ok clutch round number 3 today.

Also, I've been researching the exhaust a bit. I was hoping to put the cat in the original location that it was when I had the 3.slow. However, from what I've read it seems it needs to be located in close to the same distance as it was on the taco. Is this in fact true? Looks like that might put it on top of my crossmember next to the tcase.

mt_goat

Do you have a 1 or 2 cat model 3.4? It is important to have the front and rear O2 sensors and the cat/cats in about the same distance as they were on the donor, especially the front O2 sensor . The location is not very important for the rear O2 sensor or cat/cats if you use a URD simulator box. http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPat...folnmr9mra6de0 In fact, you could run with no cat at all with that simulator and still have no CEL throw (P0420), or so I've heard.

Keep the O2 sensors as close to 12:00 noon as you can, at least between 9:00 and 3:00 to keep moisture off them during warm-ups.

neoworm0

Thanks Dale. I have a 1 cat model. Guess I'll need to figure out those distances then. I'll be running both O2 sensors.

Hophead

Congrats on the start-up!

Nice work on the cruise- I may have to pick your brain on that one as I didn't hook mine back up.

I am running my stock 3.0 exhaust but used the stock 3.4 down pipe and front O2 sensor location.

Keep up the nice work!