Hophead

Hey lookin' really good!

Nice Job on the airbox mount it's going to look like a factory install.

When is fire up day?

neoworm0

THanks guys. Well there is still a fair bit to do. I haven't touched the wiring yet. Although with the ORS kit that shouldn't take too long. I find that figuring out just where to route everything eats a lot of time up. I need to make a trip to the pickn pull for a few misc. parts.

Have to hook up the battery harness. I think that'll need some modifications. I also pulled out all the wiring for my stereo, ham, cb, lights, arb etc. I want to redo all that. Mount the ARB compressor. Hook the winch back up. Then there is the exhaust. Whoa gotta stop. Getting overwhelmed.

So I'm not sure at what point I'll actually fire it up.

neoworm0

Well I made a bit of progress over the last couple of days. Hooked up the EVAP stuff. I reused the original 3.0 canister and mounted the 3.4 VSV's near the original location. I hooked the VSV's up as per ORS's instructions. It was a bit of a pain since some of the connections weren't the same size. I went to the local autowrecker and found some reducers and "T's" that worked well.

My VSV's are also from a 98 4runner. Hope that doesn't make a difference. The wire colors were different. Luckily they had a 2000 in the yard and I was able to match up the wire colors.

I had to move this hard line from the fender to the firewall because I want to mount the cruise control module behind the fusebox. It fit behind the EVAP canister nicely.

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I mounted the 3.4 VSV's onto the original 3.0 bracket and put the 3.4 Vapour Pressure Sensor on the firewall. A bit of an Octopus but no worse than the original setup.

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Routed the fuel return line up along the firewall:

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Decided to tackle the battery harness next. I got a 3.4 harness from the recylers. I found the Battery to block neg. cable was a bit on the short side. As well, I am going to use the stock 3.0 harness for the alt. My 3.0 plugs matched the 3.4 alt.

So instead of leaving the 3.4 alt. plugs, and starter trigger dangling I decided to dismantle the harness. I made a longer bat. neg. cable out of 4ga wire and used the original clamp from the 3.4 harness. I removed the alt. wiring and starter trigger plugs from the 3.4 harness as well. I made sure to leave the black wire from the starter trigger to hook up to the ORS harness.

Original harness. grey plug and lead in the middle is the alt. and the grey plug on the right is the starter trigger:

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Seperated everything:



The revised harness with the 3.4 alt. wiring removed (at the top of the pic) and a new 4ga longer bat. neg. cable. The green tape is the starter trigger wire.

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All sealed up and ready to go back in. I'll see how it works out tomorrow:

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vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Looks pretty clean man. All i have left on my swap is to clean up the wires and get the a/c working. Good luck. I love the 3.4

Godzilla

Looks like it is coming along nicely. What yard are you getting your parts from?

neoworm0

Thanks. Alpi's in Surrey has a pretty good selection of Toyota truck and SUV's. People always complain that they are really expensive but I haven't found that to be true. I also noticed the people that complain that Alpi's is expensive, usually drive trucks that are held together with duct tape and zap straps.

Godzilla

Haha, What do they have there for 3rd gen 4Runners or 4th gen Tacos? On their site I only see a 96. I've been wanting to take a field trip to a wreckers for misc. parts.

neoworm0

Call them. They have lots.

neoworm0

Well progress might be a bit slower now. Today I decided to go ahead and do this:

[IMG][/IMG]

I figured since I needed to pull parts of the dash apart to mount the ECU, route the ORS harness and do the tach mod, I might as well redo all my acc. wiring too. Man did that snowball. Oh well it'll be peace of mind when it's done.

On the plus side I got the ECU mounted and it fit quite well. I used two of the original 3.0 ECU mounting brackets. One I had to bend but they both lined up with original mounting holes. I test fit the kick panel and it fits great. The ORS harness tucked in above the ECU quite easily. It really helped to pull the blower box out to give myself more room to work.

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kick panel in place:

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The bracket I bent to line up with the mounting hole:

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Wiring all hooked up and fitted. 3.0 Grommet reused:

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I don't have AC so I was able to route the starter trigger wire up through the grommet that fills the top AC line hole. 12 inches below that there is another grommet that I ran the tcase position switch wiring through.

[IMG][/IMG]

Only a couple more things to hook up before it should run but I am concentrating on a bunch of non swap related item first. Rewiring the Ham, CB, rock lights, stereo, Hella's and compressor.

neoworm0

Just been plugging away at the wiring. Most of the under hood stuff is wired, loomed and routed. I mounted an aux. fuse panel and the compressor today. I extended the wires for the cruise control to the passenger side. I'm going to mount the cruise control actuator behind the fuse box. It'll be tight but should fit.

I got sick of wiring so I decided to put the rad back in. I used the fan clutch from the 3.4 and the fan from the 3.0. The 3.0 and 3.4 fan looked the same but the 3.4 was a bit larger and hit the fan shroud. The fan clutches are identical. I just went with the newer one.

The top hose that ORS provided fit great. I didn't have to trim the shroud like I've seen on a few swaps. The lower one fits "OK" but it contacts my power steering high pressure line. I was trying to stick with the stock line but I think I will have to use the flexible line that I got in the ORS kit.

I could use the 3.0 t-stat housing (I kept it just in case) but my battery harness will be in the way if I go that route. I really don't feel like redoing the battery harness. I'll see how the ORS power steering hose works out.

Here are a few pics. Nothing special but it is starting to look done. Might be ready to turn the key soon.

ARB and aux. fuse panel in:

[IMG][/IMG]

Rad is in with the 3.0 fan and 3.4 fan clutch.

[IMG][/IMG]

Top hose fits perfect:

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Starting to look complete:

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mt_goat

Great job!

neoworm0

Thanks. Mt. Goat. I still can't believe how stock this swap looks!

mt_goat

Yeah, looks very factory. I think your upper radiator hose fits better than mine. Do you have a body lift?

Godzilla

Once again, good show. It looks more stock than my 3.4 in my 99.

neoworm0

No body lift. Not sure why it fit so well. I have an aftermarket rad. Plastic and aluminum and the top spout is angled off to the PS a little. I think it is just enough to route the hose away from the shroud. Seems like the hose is angled that way too.

Maybe ORS found a better hose before they closed up shop.

I'm doing the tach mod at my desk as I type this. lol. Curiously, has anyone checked thetach after the tach mod to see how accurate the reading is. I haven't come across anything on the web. Also has anyone thought about rolling back the odo to reflect the engine mileage? I'll never sell this truck so I don't have any issues with that. God forbid I ever do sell it I'll let the new owner know.

neoworm0

Well today was good and bad. I figured out I put my clutch disc in backwards, doh! Oh well, things were going so well something had to go wrong. Looks like I'm dropping the tranny after all.

On the upside I got the cruise control actuator relocated to the passenger side. The stock cable was barely long enough and had the wrong end on it so I made a custom cable for it out of a bicyce cable and some brass rod. Chopped up the mounting base to make it fit.

The original configration:

[IMG][/IMG]

Chopped a couple legs off and relocated them:

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This is what the actuator side of the cable looks like.It has a small swage on the end that fits inside a collar that is cotter pinned to the actuator. Pics explain it better:

[IMG][/IMG]

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This is the throttle body end. The ball won't fit in the bracket:

[IMG][/IMG]

So I cut some brass rod that did fit, drilled a hole in the center and silver solder it to the cable. Worked well:

[IMG][/IMG]

Attached: can't really see it though. Plently long enough now. Lot's of adjustment for stretch.

[IMG][/IMG]

I mounted the actuator to the inside of the fender:

[IMG][/IMG]

The cable runs on a bit sharper of an angle than I would have liked. I'll see how it works. If it fails it's not a big deal.

Next task, drop the tranny and redo the clutch.

neoworm0

Well I dropped the tranny today and got the clutch turned around. There's 3 hours that could have been better spent. Glad it's done.

mt_goat

Yes, I have verified mine is accurate by comparing it to the OBDII scanner output.

neoworm0

Thanks Dale. Good to know.

neoworm0

Can anyone tell me what this is and what purpose it serves? It was mounted under the cruise control actuator on the drivers side.

Toyota calls it a resistor. Something to do with the ignition? Do I need to hook it back up?
Thanks.

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