ultimase

Haven't had that much time to work on the toyota because of the head gasket on the nissan.

Managed to finish the timing belt on the toyota, still need to go the intake manifold gaskets and the valve cover gaskets. Ordered the oil pick up tube, and won an auction for aisin manual hubs and ordered all the gaskets for those as well.

Should finish the head gasket on the nissan shortly and then I can start focusing on the toyota a little more.

SacRunner

Not sure if you've figured this out or not yet, but you don't need to remove the intake manifold to get the valve covers off; the 2 intake plenums, yes, but not the manifold.

Here's a shot of mine with the plenums, fuel rail, and wiring harness removed with the manifold still sitting between the 2 heads, but again you should only need to remove the plenums:


You'll probably want new gaskets and crush washers:

• 22271-62040 - Throttle Body Gasket, $7
• 17176-62040 - Plenum Gasket, $9 (need 2).
• 90210-05007 - Crush Washers, $0.75 (need 16)

ultimase

I think I'm confusing myself the the wrong terminology but yes that's what I'm thinking to remove. Going to give it a shot tomorrow,then I'll also get to see if the felpro gaskets comes with the two plenum gaskets or just one...

ultimase

So maybe someone can answer my question regarding the manual hubs. I bought a step off ebay a few days ago and got all the gaskets from toyota. I'm still trying to wrap my head around the ADD system and the hubs.

This is as I understand it. The hubs unlock the wheels from the axles, currently with auto hubs the axles will spin with the wheels even if the vehicle is not in 4wd. Locking the ADD permanently is what's confusing me.

I've read: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...tem-19259.html quite a few times but I'm still confused.

If we lock the ADD system then both axles are locked together. Wouldn't this pretty much defeat the point of manual hubs? essentially putting the drivetrain in 4 wheel drive permanently?

SacRunner

With ADD the hubs are always "locked," that is whenever the wheels spin so do the axles. There is a vacuum actuated sleeve that connects or disconnects the driver's side axle from the differential whether you're in 4wd or 2wd.

By adding manual hubs to a truck/4Runner with ADD you are adding the ability to un-lock the wheels from the axles, that is the wheel can spin independently from the axle. Some guys replace the ADD differential with a non-ADD diff when swapping to manual hubs so that both axles are always locked to the differential, but that isn't necessary.

I kept the ADD style differential and added manual hubs, in doing this I can drive around with the hubs locked and the system behaves exactly like it did before the addition of the manual hubs, or I can leave the hubs un-locked and shift into 4-low and effectively have 2-low because even though the axles are being driven, the un-locked hubs prevent the wheels from being driven.


That's my ADD differential with the sleeve and vacuum actuator just to the right of the differential.

Hopefully that can help clarify things...

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

What effect does locking the add collar permanantly have to the shift on the fly function?

ultimase

It does clarify somewhat, but am I correct in saying that if you add manual hubs and then lock the ADD permanently, you're essentually doing nothing in terms of the axles? While the axles are not spinning the tires, they'll be spinning by themselves because the ADD is locked.

I'm sorry I'm somewhat confused with the VSV part of the swap, I've heard somewhere that it might be easier to defeat the ADD and just permanently lock the ADD with manual hubs, it would certainly lessen the amount of wiring that would need to be done, but from what I understand you're essentially gaining really nothing because the axles will be spinning just without actually turning the tires in the front...

Battery in the nissan's dead so I'm trickle charging it right now...

On to the toyota...

Intake plenum off, valve cover's off, was going to just clean up the valve covers but there's some caked oil, not sludge but some oil on the valve covers. If everything goes well with the nissan I'm thinking about dropping the plenums and the valve covers off to be cleaned at the machine shop...

ultimase

Was able to finish up the Nissan, and it drives, burning a little oil that might be from the turbo (hopefully not as it's new), and it's dripping some oil from what looks like the lower oil pan, I must have not sealed it perfectly when putting it back on. Planning on dropping the pan when I change the oil in a few hundred miles. I'll give the turbo a little more time to seal as well.

Surprisingly expensive for the parts to be cleaned, so I'll just go with elbow grease.

Was hoping the felpro valve cover gasket came with all the crush washers as it did for the nissan but no such luck, so I had to order them from the local toyota dealer.

Should be able to get the valve covers and the intake manifolds plenums back on tomorrow, then we'll start to get into the real work of the swap, pulling the old 3.0 motor, swapping oil pans, dropping the new motor in, and of course figuring out the wiring...

ultimase

This is my interpretation so it might be wrong actually it probably is...

Locking the collar will effectively keep the vehicle in 4wd, you can unlock the hubs with manual hubs, but the axles will continue to be driven, just without actually turning the wheels since they hubs are unlocked. It would effectively negate the shift on the fly function as the 4wd would be basically controlled by the manual hubs...

Hopefully someone can reply that has more experience as I admit I'm kinda fuzzy on this as well.

Based on that reasoning I'm thinking I will try to retain the ADD and put on manual hubs as well. This way if I'm looking to encounter any slippery conditions I can lock the hubs and basically turn the vehicle to stock automatic hubs. Just putting around town with no fear of slippery conditions, unlock the hubs for the hope of better gas mileage and saving the CV boots.

ultimase

Radiator, fan shroud, fan, air box etc is removed. All bolts on the transmission bellhousing to the engine have been removed, that bolt on the very top of the transmission is a PITA, I think I spent more time removing that bolt than all the other ones.

Four bolts on the motor mounts have also been loosened or removed, all bolts on the torque converter have been removed.

At this point I think I have a few harnesses, the AC compressor and a few more bolts and I should be pulling the motor...

ultimase

So I was right, in that this explanation is wrong...I had a pretty lengthy write up on why it wrong but then my laptop crashed. I will have to update it when I can.

ultimase

Ok so the base of this I'm confusing the differential with 4wd. The ADD stands from automatic differential disconnect. The ADD and the 4wd system are connected but separate.

When you shift into 4wd the ADD system is locked as well. Normally the differential is not locked unless the 4wd system is engaged.

If the ADD system is not locked then the differential will act like an open differential, this means if either tire slips, all the power will go through the tire with the least resistance. This also means you aren't going to move easily.

If the ADD system is locked then the differential effectively locks both axles together, this will not allow one axle to spin by itself, both axles will spin together. This will help you get out of slippery conditions.

Now remember the ADD system isn't engaged until you shift into 4WD. So if you defeat the ADD system the differential will be locked full time. However 4WD isn't engaged because of this, meaning no power is being sent to the front wheels.

Toyota sold vehicles with differentials without the ADD system, and people have swapped these differentials in. By defeating the ADD system you are effectively creating one of these differentials.

Now, manual hubs. Think of these as separate entities from the ADD and 4WD. They simply lock the hubs/wheels to the axles. Normally on vehicles equipped with automatic hubs when the wheels/hubs turn so do the axles. This leads to wear on the CV boots and also a slight hit on mileage. Manual hubs unlock the hubs/wheels to the axles, so now the wheels/hubs can turn independently from the axles.

Thanks to fallman for explaining this to me.

SacRunner

As I understand things, that is correct except for the following 2 statements:
Think of the ADD as an add-on to the differential, not as a part of the differential. With ADD the driver side axle shaft is not directly connected to the "output" (not sure what it's really called) of the differential, but rather there is a vacuum actuated sleeve that moves back and forth to connect or disconnect driver side axle shaft to the differential.

When you shift the transfer case into 4-HI (or 4-Lo) I6 (the 4WD indicator switch in the transfer case) provides a GND for the ADD control relay, which turns the relay "on." When the ADD control relay is "off" it provides power to the 2WD ADD VSV, which provides vacuum to the ADD module on the differential to keep the sleeve and thus the driver side axle disconnected. When the relay turns "on" it removes power from the 2WD VSV and provides it to the 4WD ADD VSV, which then provides vacuum to the "other side" of the ADD module and engages the sleeve and connects the driver side axle to the output of the differential. When the ADD module determines that the sleeve is fully engaged it closes the "ADD indicator Switch" and the 4WD light in the dash turns on.

If you have an open differential (no added lockers) you will still encounter the same issue with the wheel with less traction receiving all the power and you'll sit there spinning a front tire. Adding a locker will fix that (but we all know that part already).

Relevant info from 91 4Runner EWD (4WD M/T):


If you look at the picture I posted above, you can see the 2 vacuum lines connected to the driver side of the "added-on" ADD module and the white connector for the ADD switch (or the switch itself) right in front of the steering relay rod.

ultimase

So I got a hint today that I should get to work on the motor. The interior roof in the garage collapse onto the 3.4...

Oil sender done
timing belt done

Need to do:
intake plenum
motor mounts
fuel line flip
oil pan swap

3.0 motor was pulled a few weeks ago...

ultimase

Intake plenum done
motor mounts switched
fuel line flipped

oil pan is off both blocks, stopped for the night after cleaning off the 3.0 pan.

I lined up both of the oil dip sticks and while the 3.4 is longer, if you line then up with the bottom of the dipstick guides it appears that they are actually about the same length. I'll take a closer look at tomorrow but I might just stick with the 3.4 dipstick.

So I'll just need put on the T100 4x4 oil pick up and then finish swapping the pans, then at that point I should be ready to drop the motor in...

ultimase

Oil pickup installed
Oil pan switched
all belts on

Motor is pretty much ready to be dropped in. I just still need to order the battery box and find an intake.

Worked on some rust spots I found in the engine compartment, wire brushed them down then painted them with duracolor rust stop, looks like it came out alright.

Took apart the battery harness, and figured out how I'm going to run power to the fuse box and power directly to the starter.

I have some left over welding grounding cable that I used for when I did a battery relocation on the nissan, basically 0 gauge if not thicker, I'm going to run this from the battery to a fused distribution block, from there I'll use the same gauge to go to the starter.

I took a look at the fuse box on the passenger side where it had a direct feed from the battery to the fuse box with the 80 amp fuseable link and it looks thinner than the 8 gauge wire I have left from an amp install. So I think I'll run an 8 gauge from fused distribution block across the front of the car over to the stock passenger fuse box.

ultimase

I'm not sure what I was thinking at the last post, the positive lead from the battery to the starter doesn't need to be remade. I just need to fuse that lead and also solder a wire to the original power feed to the main fusebox.

Also I may have found an easier way to use the 3.4l alternator without having to cut or solder. Instead of it getting lost here I went ahead and made a new post here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...ppable-251374/

andersej

I must have gotten lucky with my alternator cause When I hooked it back in my original harnesshooked right up to it. Was this just some kind of flook? Or does the 98 t100 have the same alternator.
I used a 6ga wire from an old amp setup. But for somereason I cant find anyone locally that has a in line fuse for 100amp? kinda weird. I found a whole bunch online on Ebay but I didn't want to wait for it to ship. I might have to just run the thing without it until I get a Fuse.

ultimase

I'm I'm not sure on the plugs. I think the closer the donor is to the recipient the better chance you have that the plugs will be the same. My donor/recipient have about 7 years between them.

I'm actually about to place an order for the fuses, and a fused distribution block. You probably can find someone locally if you are lucky but the markup on audio accessories is pretty rediculous. I'm wondering though looking at the stock wiring am I right in saying toyota didn't run a fuse between the starter wire that's directly on the positive pole on the battery?

andersej

I didn't have a fuse on the starter wires and I'm not gonna use one there. I think it gets routed in the fuse box once wired correctly.