Was going to order from toyota directly but the amazon link is too tempting. I did call toyota and get all the part numbers so I'll paste that here for future reference.

toyota part number
timing belt 1356869095
water pump 161006939883 comes with gasket
tensioner 1354062021
lower idler 1350562070
upper idler 1350362040
thermostat and gasket 9091603075, 1632562010, starts opening at 190
crank seal 9031140022
valve cover gasket passenger side 1121362020, driver side 1121362020
spark plug tubes 1119370010 need 6 of them
camshaft seals 1118862010
intake manifold gasket 1717662040 gasket in between halves, 1717662040, 2 lower gaskets 1717762060 connect to the head

 

Just a heads up on those spark plug tube gaskets/seals, there's a small tab on the metal baffle (inside the valve cover) that extends over the gasket. I don't know how they're supposed to be replaced but I ended up taking the valve covers and new gaskets to a machine shop and had them install them (after a hot tank to clean things up a bit...they also did the freeze plugs). It looks like they pulled the baffle out completely, replaced the gaskets then reinstalled the baffle.

I couldn't find any sort of write-up or how-to here or in the FSM and figured I'd let someone else (who may know what they're doing) do it.

 

Thanks for the advice, interesting that no one has mentioned that issue, I'll have to take a look at that when I get down into the motor.

Looking at the valve covers it doesn't look like it's going to be possible to just pull the valve covers without pulling the intake manifold. Anyone have any ideas why the intake manifold gaskets are SO expensive? The intake manifold gasket kit costs 80+.

As for wiring I've gotten everything printed and laid out. It seems that I had forgot about the body harnesses, which I found and printed out today. Now I just need to match the pins across from the donor to the recipient.

I admit it's daunting but it shouldn't be too bad once I get going. I'm still considering getting the harness done, but honestly the only reason I'm considering that is if anything goes wrong, ie I can't get the ac working or the transmission won't talk to the ecu I'd have someone to ask.

 

Valve cover gaskets arrived. When looking at the motor I realized that the throttle body shaft is bent. Not too badly but enough where the tab on one of the pulleys is snagging. When I called the junkyard I got the motor from they basically said they'd only warranty the long block, the peripherals I'm on my own, of course this was after they told me that they didn't have another 3.4 that they swap out. So there's a lesson to me, regardless of what the junkyard says when you buy the motor get it in writing.

Going to another junkyard tomorrow morning, I remember seeing a late model 4runner there that I think had the throttle body there. I'll grab that tomorrow morning.

Back to EWD's....

 

You're lucky to find a Toyota in a junkyard here!! Let alone ones with 3.4's in them.

Ttora has throttle bodies for sale in the classifieds from time to time. Might want to routinely check over there.

 

As of two weeks ago there was a 4runner with a 3.4 there. The motor wasn't worth trying to pull as people already took small pieces off. Going to check it in a few mins, need anything? They're having a half price sale today. Email me your phone number if you have anything you need.

 

Grabbed the throttle body and also an ignitor. Someone made it easy as they pulled the intake plenum already.

Going to see if I can get the motor up again and then run a compression test if possible tomorrow.

 

the mech. swap is easy. even if you have to drill for dipstick. I bought the doner $500 from 99 4runnerto put in 95 4runner. I know the dude that runs the yard, he let me pull the motor. I got motor and harness and ecu. the swap was very easy.......but connecting engine harness to body harness? it took me a week to make it right. truck is freaking cool but be prepared. I want to thank everyone for making the swap easy. bolt right up.

 

Honestly, after I've looked at the EWD's it doesn't look to bad... I'm very intimidated by the transmission and the AC wiring.

After being told that it doesn't matter if the ecu was 4x4 or 4x2 it makes me believe that the actual transfer case doesn't have very much to do with the ecu. The only thing I'm not sure of if there's anything that I'm not accounting for with the EWD's.

 

Bought another engine stand, this one had metal wheels and looks much more substantial. That and it's rated to 1250 lbs versus the other at 750 lbs (plastic wheels and tricycle setup).

Getting the motor onto the engine stand was interesting, and I have to admit it's pretty intimidating having the motor "hovering," but it does make everything a lot easier to work on.

I went back to the junkyard to grab the body harness sockets and I think I'll be making an adapter for the wiring. This way I can sit inside the nice warm house and solder the sockets together.

So let to do:
1. valve cover gaskets
2. intake manifold gaskets
3. timing belt/water pump/tensioners
4. If the cams and the head looks very sludgey I'll pull the oil pan off to take a look at the oil pick up.
5. flip the fuel supply and fuel return

Then the motor should be prepped and ready to drop in.

I have the starter mounted on the block while the engine is on the engine stand. Sometime this week I think I'm going to try to do a compression test on the motor while it's sitting on the stand.

I need to find a picture hosting service to post some of the pictures I have.

 

Yes, pics! Photobucket is about as easy as it gets.

 

Lets give this a shot:





Once the timing belt package gets here I'll have to see if I can make a SST to hold the crank.

 

Good, got pics figured out. Here's my SST I made if it helps

 

Ok first thing, it's January, it's 70 degrees outside. I'm working on the engine and the head gasket and I'm sweating...

Ok so a few days ago I got the motor on the stand and took the bend throttle body off. I cleaned up the other throttle body I got from junkyard and swapped the idle air control valve and the tps.

Today I took out the spark plugs and ran a compression test on the motor while it was sitting on the stand. The junkyard I got the motor from told me I had a 30 day warranty on the motor so I've been very nervous that I'd get a blown motor but wouldn't know until I had dropped the motor in. After some searching I found some links and videos of people running a compression test on the engine stand. So today I gave it a shot.....

All cylinders ran ~180 psi, with the front two cylinders slightly lower around ~175 psi. So I'm very very VERY relieved.

Just waiting to on the intake manifold gaskets to arrive to start pulling the intake off and redoing the valve cover gaskets. Then hopefully the timing belt kit will be here by this weekend and I'll start working on that.

A couple of pictures, sorry the phone camera lens was a little dirty.

 

So beautiful day, got the toyota motor cleaned up, finished up the nissan head gasket. Checked the coolant pressure, good, filled with oil. Turn over the motor a few times to get the oil circulating. Ok lets give it a shot... turn over, and fired up, smoothly....then a clatter...

Pulled the valve cover and found this:



The key on the cam shaft that turns the sprocket sheared off... This motor is an interference motor....

We'll have to see what the company I bought the rebuilt head says tomorrow...

 

So at another toyota site I found a crank SST that someone made out of wood...



Didn't work as well as I hoped...

So anyone have a crank pulley holder I can borrow before I buy one?

 

So I stopped by home depot to pick up some bar stock to make another sst, but I also stopped by harbor freight. I figured I was going to pick up one of the air impacts, even though my compressor is technically too small to handle them (only 4 gallons and 4.2cfm at 90 psi). So I picked up the 1/2 earthquake, and admittedly it sounded pretty weak with my compressor. That the pressure dropped pretty quickly when using it... but on the second try it spun the crank bolt out and dropped it on my foot.

I am now addicted to air tools. I have a 1/2 breaker bar, and I was literally lifting the motor and almost the motor stand, and I couldn't budge this. I cracked the wood SST directly down the middle and I still didn't budge the bolt.

Now after the timing belt I think I can wedge the flywheel to torque the bolt when I finish the timing belt.

 

Hey I have another random question, I have a 4 inch suspension lift on my 89 single cab, when I do my swap does it still matter which oil pan I use??

 

Whatever pan you are using on your 3.0 (assuming the stock one) will work on your 3.4.

The blocks are essentially the same thing as far as outside dimensions so if it fits now, it'll fit then.

 

I think the time table just got moved up significantly, it looks like the headgasket finally let go on the Toyota. Coincidently I just sent out the head for the nissan back to the head rebuilding company this morning as well.

Plan on finishing the timing belt and the intake manifold gaskets as well as the valve cover gaskets this week.

Don't see getting back the head for the nissan until the end of this week or later. Hopefully the sooner the better so I can get that vehicle running at least. Almost thinking about calling over some help to try to pull the old 3.0 this weekend.