dntsdad

A small audio shop would be the best place to buy large wire and fuses. The markup is about 45% usually so try to haggle a bit if you can.

The is no fuse between the large starter wire from the battery and the starter on any that I have ever seen, or any car period.

ultimase

3.4L is in. Funny how much more at home this motor looks than the old 3.0. It's also funny how intimidating it is when the motor is hanging at your head level.

Motor is bolted to the stock transmission now and both motor mounts are bolted in, just need to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter. The fuel line looks like it almost too long but better long than too short. Fuel return shouldn't be a problem either.

Only issues I see thus far are the heater core coolant lines which I will have to play with a little to get to work. The metal hardlines are fairly corroded and I tried to order replacements but apparently the part number is discontinued so I can't order them. I'm thinking I'll either run them for now or look for some 5/8 inch brass barbs and make something similar.

Other issue will be to find a place for the evap box. It seems that most people put the evap box where the cruise control was and I was thinking about doing that as well since we really don't use cruise that much, but then I'm not sure where to relocate the cruise control?

The battery box is on the way.

I still need to find an air box, but I'm in no serious rush as I think I can probably put together an intake with the stock 3.0 parts. No ideal but not a huge deal at this time either.

Wiring... so toyota must have decided to start using the 1998 harness halfway through this production. My IE1 and IE2 match up with the 1997 EWD, but my E4 matches up with the 1998 EWD. Was able to label all of the donor's wires last night and hope to be able to ID and label all the recipient's tonight.

For fusing I was going back and forth between anl and the agu fuses, then someone at the local o'reily's made a really good point. If you blow a fuse in the middle of nowhere the chances of finding a fuse that big easily won't be that easy. But the large blade fuses are easy to find at any parts store. He had a point. So there was a fused distribution block at walmart that I picked up and a 80 amp blade fuse from o'reily's. This should work fine.

andersej

I have a 98 t100 air box if your interested..

ultimase

Picked up a T100 airbox without realizing how much larger they are than the tacoma air boxes. Even it it lined up with the intake tube there's no way the hood would close with it in there with the battery tray or not. Will need to figure out if I'm just going to get a complete k&n intake system or just get an intake for the intake pipe for the time being. I'm thinking I probably can even make something with the 3.0 intake parts.

Battery box is going into the driver's side, need to get some bolts with smaller heads, I'm trying to utilize two existing bolt holes, one that's threaded m8x1.25 with some plastic spacers. Should work fine, but need to find some smaller heads first.

At that same junkyard I found a 4runner with the metal coolant heater core lines that were in much better shape than the stock ones.

Flex plate bolts have been torqued, will torque the rest of the transmission bolts tomorrow.

Coolant hoses were somewhat of a challenge but all are accounted for including rear heat.

Radiator, fan and fan shroud will need to go in. Then replace the air dryer then vac the a/c system.

Still need to finish the wiring, also figure out the EVAP and all the VSV's.

ultimase

Radiator is in, fan is in. Upper radiator hose from elvota's swap thread fit perfectly, but the lower hose did not fit. I may have to play around with the thermastat outlet and the stock hose.

Air dryer was swapped.

All transmission bolts torqued including starter bolts. I thought the transmission bolts were bad getting them off, getting them torqued to 53 lbs was very challenging as well.

Looking at the VSV's it looks like all the VSV's from the 3.0 aren't going to be used in the swap, as they are for the AS reed valve, FPU and EGR, all of which I believe aren't going to be applicable to the 3.4.

Plan on reattaching the grill and mounting the 4crawler bumper lift and replacing the bumper tomorrow. Then playing around with the thermastat housing/outlet and hoses to get it to fit.

Other than that, it'll be wiring and evap left to do...

andersej

Yea I decided to not use that stock airbox and just put a k/n air filter on the end of the intake tube after the MAF. Been working great Even sounds pretty cool when it sucks air!

ultimase

So I think it's time for an update.

A few weeks ago we turned the key and the motor roared to life, and when I say roared I mean it roared as it's running an open dump pipe just off the crossover pipe.

At this point I still needed to wire up the transmission so all it was just making sure the wiring harness worked to start and keep the motor running. Everything seemed to be alright.

I then finished up the transmission wiring, which was interesting because it really only amounted to three wires total to get the solenoids working. Then I took it around the block to get some gas, only to realize I hadn't properly bleed the coolant system so I almost overheated the motor....

I bleed the coolant a few days ago, and am hoping to have the exhaust buttoned up tomorrow. Locked the front diff with a vacuum pump and I am thinking to remove the vsv's now and cap off the ports for the diff. I believe once I have the diff locked I should not have a problem with it coming unlocked if I cap the ports. Then I can remove the vsv's and put the evap vsv's in the bracket on the passenger side. Then I just need to figure out the evap wiring, and finish up the AC and obd2 wiring. Manual hubs also bolted in after taking them apart and regreasing them.

Just to make sure though, does anyone know if I used the vacuum pump to pull the fork over to engage the diff and then cap everything off should the diff every come unengaged?

QuickSilver74

i dont think capping the lines will keep the 4wd locked in. i just pulled mine and used a clamp to hold it in the right position. it is really very easy to do the right way. might take 30 min tops

ultimase

From reading another tutorial it looks like you can route the line that locks the diff to a vacuum source with a one way valve and cap the other vacuum line off that unlocks the diff to keep the diff locked as well. I'll likely do this then when I've removed the vsv's from the bracket I can fit the vsv's for the evap system in that bracket instead.

So I was driving around yesterday with the ultra-gauge and I noticed that the coolant temperature was maxing out at 210...which seems slightly high. I read through mt_goat's thread and it looks like he ended up opening up his custom bumper and was running TRD thermostat to finally bring his temp down. I've set an alarm on the ultra-gauge to go off if the coolant temp hits 220 but time will tell if the ambient temperature this summer is going to affect the coolant temp. Right now I'm running the stock temp thermostat at 180 so I was a bit surprised when the coolant temp hit 210. This was a nice day say 75ish.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Is your coolant/water mix correct? That sounds a bit high, but then I'm using the stock SR5 gauge so I can only comment that mine's "slightly left of center", not much help.

ultimase

Running 50/50 toyota red with distilled water. The funny thing was that the stock SR5 gauge didn't even budge. Which is starting to make me think that the stock gauge is just a three position switch, cold, normal, thermonuclear.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

No sure if you got the crank bolt on or off, but you can put a trans bolt back in one of the holes and set a socket between the bolt and the teeth of the flywheel or flex plate and it works just fine assuming you have the motor on a stand.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

After you hook up your OBDII, you can use a scan to read the water temp from it. Mine is running around 190 on a 78 deg. day.
I don't know if any new truck has the idiot light for temp or not......

ultimase

OBD2 is hooked up and running, I'm reading the coolant temp off an ultra-gauge.

ultimase

Been driving the 4runner around the past few days and I have to say, this motor feel so much more happy in the 4runner than the old 3.0. I was driving up an incline yesterday with the AC on and I was passing a vehicle when it sudden hit me, I've never done this before in the 4runner.

Finally filled up the full tank so I'll get a better idea of what the gas mileage after this tank is done. The ultra-gauge is saying 17.2 mpg but right now I have no idea if that's accurate at all.

A few codes nothing unexpected:
P0141 O2 sensor heater circuit bank sensor 2 - this sensor is still just hanging there since I don't have an o2 sensor for this year, I wonder if the stock o2 sensor for the 3.0 would work, the harness looks the same, I'll have to check an auto parts store to see if they're compatable.
P0450 Evap emission system pressure sensor/switch - this isn't wired in at all currently, but I am planning on working on it.
P0710 Trans fluid temp sensor A circuit - this isn't wired in at all currently either, but I do plan on wiring this in as well.
P1780 Park/neutral position switch fault - not a huge surprise since I'm currently bypassing the switch, but admittedly slightly surprised as it's throwing a code when in the EWD it looks like I'm completely bypassing it.

Other than that I see a 1998 4runner has been brought into a local junkyard. I'm hoping to get out there tomorrow morning to pull some parts. I'm looking for the fan shroud, the fan and the fan clutch and the park neutral switch. Hopefully it's an auto with the V6.

Also have some parts on the way, outer tie rod for the passenger side and also some front sway bar bushings. I hope to get these punched out this weekend.

ultimase

So one of the last things I mentioned was that the coolant temperature was a little high. I believe the highest I saw a around 212 degrees which was a bit concerning because it's not really that hot yet.

So a couple of things I've tried. I was running the stock 3.0 fan with the ring, I've read that this fan can sometimes fail and that the newer fan without a ring might be marginally more efficient. When I was at the junkyard I picked up a newer style fan and the fan clutch.

I added this to the radiator and the stock fan shroud. Unfortunately the stock fan shroud had broken in half so only the upper half of the shroud was used. With this combination I still saw temperatures 210+.

So I started some more drastic steps.

I picked up a 170 degree thermostat from Napa. Now I'm still somewhat unclear why a lower thermostat would ultimately reduce temperature. I can see how a thermostat should take longer to reach the high temperature because it's opening earlier, but the heating system should become saturated at the same point. But most threads I read noted that coolant temperature did seem to related to the thermostat and usually fell around 10 degrees above the thermostat rating.

I took this a step further, since the napa thermostat did not have a jiggler valve I drilled two holes in the thermostat plate. Part of this was to help bleeding the coolant but also part of this artificially lowers the thermostat temperature rating further by allowing some of the coolant to circulate even before reaching the thermostat temperature rating.

I took the radiator out as well to take a look at it. While doing this I bent back as many fins as I could. I also took a look inside. Not the worst looking radiator but not great. So I did a weak acid bath, ala vinegar and let it soak overnight. Rinsed it out this morning and the vinegar did remove quite a bit, I felt that there had to be something even better.

So I did some research, and it seems like the general consciousness is that all the strong radiator flushes are no longer available because they were deemed unsafe to the environment and to the people using them. But there appeared to be an alternative that funny enough most people have at home. Give up? Toilet bowl cleaner, specifically one called "the works" and one can see why it should work...it's 20% hydrochloric acid.

Picked up two bottles at walmart for $1.22. Be careful with this stuff, you don't want it on your hands, you don't want to inhale the fumes and you don't want to get this in your eyes. Poured one bottle into the radiator and sealed off both ports then filled the remaining area with water. Then carefully I picked up the radiator and made sure that I circulated the mixture everywhere in the radiator. Then I left it out in the sun for 15 minutes.

When I drained the radiator I couldn't believe how much gunk was coming out, chunks of deposits was coming out, and you could actually hear the acid fizzing with the deposits. I then rinsed out the radiator for a few minutes to try to make sure there wasn't any remaining acid.

Buttoned everything back up with the top half of the shroud and bleed the system. Right away I noticed something interesting, I might have done a little too much, the coolant temperature wasn't coming up quickly, as a matter of fact it seemed to stall at 170. No leaks that I could see.

It was pretty cool tonight but just driving around I don't think I ever got it about 184. It's supposed to warm up in the next few days so we'll see how much of a difference I made.

What was the major difference? Hard to say really but I'd bet descaling the radiator did the most, with thermostat coming second.

Picked up a rear o2 sensor from the junkyard and installed it into the downpipe. This will probably solve the o2 heater circuit but since this o2 sensor is in the 3.0 stock location before the cat I'll probably get a cat o2 sensor code later.

On an somewhat unrelated note I did the energy suspension sway bar bushing and endlinks over the weekend as well as the outer tie rod on the passenger side. The driver side endlink was actually loose and had about .25 inch freeplay laterally. This was causing the scary unstable cornering behavior. In the course of doing the sway arm bushing/endlink bushing and the outer tie rod I have to admit I did two very stupid things.

1. I couldn't figure out how to get the bolt off the endlink because the endlink was so bad that it simply spun when I tried to undo the bolt. I tried everything and finally just started sawing. So it took two hacksaw blades and about an hour to cut through. Of course during this I was calling the engineer that came up with the design every word I could think of. It wasn't until I picked up the replacement from autozone that I noticed that there was an allen key on the bolt, that you would hold the bolt with to prevent it from spinning.

2. When doing the tie rod end I spun the tie rod into the sleeve by hand, it wasn't until the last few turns that I realized I could fit an adjustable wrench on the flat part of the tie rod to make it a lot easier to spin the tie rod into the sleeve.

Don't repeat my mistakes.

Finished the tach mod tonight, and getting an alignment tomorrow.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Since your radiator seems to be cooling now, I would swap back the stock thermostat. Engines need heat for economy, efficiency, and emissions.

ultimase

I just might still do that, but I think I'm going to keep it the way it is through summer at least. If I find that I've made it too efficient then I'll swap in the stock thermostat.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

I cleaned out my radiator before putting it back in the truck.
I forgot about that.
I'm glad it worked out.
I forgot if you're in CA or not but I didn't pass the referee because of the EVAP system is "not available".....and wrong K&N sticker.
I posted it in my swap thread.

ultimase

originally from california with future plans to hopefully be back one day, but for now central flat US. On the plus side, no smog... I am however keeping the new evap just in case...