Hey all,

I recently did a valve adjustment on my 123,xxx mile pickup. I was in the midst of doing it when I realized I didn't really know how much drag is supposed to be on the feeler guage! I checked and the manual or the net is vague at best.

ex: http://www.haveblueonline.com/1983/ENGINE/valves.htm

How do I measure "moderate" drag? This seems like a very subjective method of describing it. Does anyone have any tips for this tune-up? It started right up afterwards but seemed way noisy. I know that 22res run noisy but wow, it was noisier than normal!

Also, I pulled a pretty big n00b mistake and left the 19mm socket and breaker bar on the main pulley when I started it. I heard a huge clang and saw the main nut roll by the driver's door so I immediately stopped the engine. I replaced it and got it as tight as I could. This wouldn't have hurt anything I hope?

Thanks for the help!

 

I set mine and would consider moderate drag as not being overly hard to get the feeler guage free, but not loose enough to fall out on its own.

 

Just did ine last week. Pretty much as how SoCal was describing. Tight enough to keep the gauge in place, but loose enough to still get it out. I have even started to go with 1 under.

Specs call for 0.008" on intake adn 0.012" on the exhaust. I will go .007" intake and 0.011" on exhaust. When I tighten down the lock nut and go back to check it, I will use the 0.008" and 0.012" feelers. They should both go in. Going to the 0.009" and the 0.013", they should not go in.

 

Sounds pretty good! Is this with the engine warm or cold? The manual says hot but I've also read that if you could do .007 and .011 on a cold motor, and when it warms up it will be to spec.

 

hmmm... not sure how differnt it is, but my 22r says with the engine warm and the ehaust at .030 with the intake @ .020

 

I did mine on a hot engine.

 

i just did mine on saturday, i did it to 8 and 12 with a warm engine, some clatter but i know what it is and don't worry about it, i run mobil 1 15w-50 so it isn't really loud. don't feel bad about forgetting the rachet on the front pulley, i did it once. I thought i was done for. i just knew as soon as i heard the clunk i was out a radiator and a fan and water pump and broken bolt, luckily just like yours mine just spun off with no damage done. now i triple check to see that all the rotating parts are cleared after i work on my truck

 

I think you made the same mistake I made and originally read it wrong. Rereading it right before going to do it tonight I realized.......020 and .030mm is .008 & .012in. respectively. So both the 22R and 22RE have the same valve clearance specs.

 

you might wanna try 7/11 cold. lots of people do it that way and it does not cause problems. sometimes the valves will be quieter that way.

also, you might want to look at replacing the adjuster screws...after awhile, they get an hourglass shaped wear pattern on the bottom...when they have this wear pattern, they come out of adjustment almost immediately after you set them...take one all the way out and look at the bottom of it.

you can get new adjuster studs from the dealer or from www.engnbldr.com

oh yeah...you guys discovered the easy way to break the crank pulley bolt loose in case you ever need to remove your harmonic balancer (to replace from main seal or timing chain or oil pump, etc.) put a socket and breaker bar on it, rest it against the frame rail, and bump the starter.

 

Good post! and exactly why I'm headed to the stealer today on lunch. I had to order 8 new ones from em as engnbldr don't offer em. He told me teusday that it's a dealer only item and they run about 3.50 each. I'm gettin em for 1.85 each as I have a wholesale account with the local stealership. Ordered em teusday and they arrived today.

FYI to others....DO NOT TRY TO REGRIND THEM to smooth out any rough spots as they have a special taper on them that keeps from sideloading the valve stems.

 

I always set mine @ .007 and .011 cold, I'm tierd of burning my arms. Problem is when you are doing it warm or hot the metal parts are gradually cooling down changing the tolerances. Cold is cold nothing is changing. Moderate drag is just like described above. Make sure when you are turning the adjuster screw with one hand you are pushing the rocker arm down on the cam, if you don't you will have to adjust over and over. Turn the screw, remove screw driver, push rocker down on cam and check with feeler guage, repeat as needed. Normally I put the feeler guage in-between, push rocker down, turn screw until it is tight against feeler, and then back off screw until feeler starts to slide around with light force. Make sure you wipe off the feeler guage after each valve, to keep oil and junk from building up on it.

 

Correction, I paid 2.85 each not 1.85 like I originally posted.

Goina slap em in here in a few minutes. In case anyone wants to buy new ones, the Toyota p/n and description is 90913-05019 Screw, valve adju