5.OHO into 95 Runner
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5.OHO into 94 Runner
Guys I am getting ready to do a 5L Swap into my 95 runner. Now before everybody goes and tells me why it's not the best swap let me just say I know it may not be the lightest or easiest swap but I already have a running 91 Lincoln Mark VII that the motor is coming out of and have ordered the bellhousing. So I am committed or maybe should be committed . I am going to leave the motor Speed Density since I don't plan on building super big power, also less sensors to mess with. I am pretty sure I have a good plan but I am sure that I will encounter much that I will be asking you all about. Well I will post up as soon as things get rolling. so here is a few pics to kick things off.
This
Into This
This
Into This
Last edited by rockdawg84; 05-17-2010 at 11:22 PM.
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I dont know the answere to the question but i know this motor is awesome in the yota. i wheeled with t guy that had it and he loves it. You may have cleaence issues under the truck though being that it looks like a stock ifs rig not 100% sure about that but i think you may need to lift it posibly sas
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I'm not knockin' ya dude.....you are way smarter than the chevota guys.....this swap makes more sense, EFI is where its at, I would NEVER swap in a carbed engine, thats just stone-aged foolishness, there is much more support for performance of a 5.0 (due to the mustang crowd) than there is for chevy EFI, plus the engine block isn't as wide as a chevy which helps it fit a small yota engine bay.
P.S. There is ONE smart Chevota guy on here who did an LS1 swap, you should mud race him when your done!
P.S. There is ONE smart Chevota guy on here who did an LS1 swap, you should mud race him when your done!
Last edited by fastkevman; 12-09-2007 at 12:20 PM.
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I'm not knockin' ya dude.....you are way smarter than the chevota guys.....this swap makes more sense, EFI is where its at, I would NEVER swap in a carbed engine, thats just stone-aged foolishness, there is much more support for performance of a 5.0 (due to the mustang crowd) than there is for chevy EFI, plus the engine block isn't as wide as a chevy which helps it fit a small yota engine bay.
P.S. There is ONE smart Chevota guy on here who did an LS1 swap, you should mud race him when your done!
P.S. There is ONE smart Chevota guy on here who did an LS1 swap, you should mud race him when your done!
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good luck with you swap man i'm doin the same thing, 90 lsc 5.0 goin in a 93 pickup. heres a link
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...o-down-124834/
hit me back let me know what you think or any questions or tips
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...o-down-124834/
hit me back let me know what you think or any questions or tips
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good luck with you swap man i'm doin the same thing, 90 lsc 5.0 goin in a 93 pickup. heres a link
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...o-down-124834/
hit me back let me know what you think or any questions or tips
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...o-down-124834/
hit me back let me know what you think or any questions or tips
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I am running the R150 with a NWOR Bellhousing. thought about going with a lakewood scattersheild and redrilling it but couldn't find one that saved enough money to make it worth it. Also this lets me not do any interior fabbing. Should be plenty strong and eventually I will find a 23 spline R151 transfercase and will swap out the chain driven TC. Should hold up great.
#10
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I am running the R150 with a NWOR Bellhousing. thought about going with a lakewood scattersheild and redrilling it but couldn't find one that saved enough money to make it worth it. Also this lets me not do any interior fabbing. Should be plenty strong and eventually I will find a 23 spline R151 transfercase and will swap out the chain driven TC. Should hold up great.
James
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Well I thought about NWOR bellhousing cause I was going to do exactly what you were going to do, R150 and a turbo case. Well after I found out how much was like $800+ I did not think it was worth it. Also on various forums I read NWOR bellhousings are not the greatest quality nor machine work is not so hot. Also I have dealt with them before and it took them 3 weeks to ship poly bump stops. If you do decide, please post some good pics of the bellhousing and how well it worked for you.
James
James
#13
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James I also have read all about NWOR and their troubles. I paid 688.00 and the kit includes: bellhousing, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, throwout arm and slave cylinder, as well as the friction disk. As I began to look at it it didn't seem to bad. I have ordered stuff a while back and the service wasn't great but the quality was good. So I will learn first hand how they are doing today. The kit should be here by wednesday so I will post up picks of everything that comes in the box. so stay tuned.
James
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Got most of the motor ready to pull on the 95 today and should have it out tomorrow. Also according to Fed Ex my Bellhousing ought to be here tomorrow. Yea I have been really careful not to brake anything as I have been getting everything ready to pull out. I have been reading wiring diagrams and think I am getting a hand on some of it. Yea Right One thing I do love is that it seems that Toyota has made each system basically stand alone, engine, Cruse Control, ABS (which will be abandoned). I am still trying to decide/ figure out what to do about things like gages. Ford engine harness is stand alone and so that is good. tomorrow out come the motor.
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You must not have emissions testing in AZ. Speed density is ok - I owned an 86 - but you'll have to avoid mods because the speed density can't compensate for the extra fuel required by cams, etc. The low end torque of a 5.0 is perfect for offroading. As for the gauges - You should be able to connect the gauges but an aftermarket gauge cluster will be more accurate and probably easier to hookup.
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We have emissions here in Arizona. Tail and visual. The Mark VII passed super clean so everything will get moved over. As far as Speed Density, it will be fine at 225 and 300 that is plenty of power. if I ever need more power I will convert it to MAF. Im looking for reliability and about 100 more horse than the 3.0. I am getting some good feedback about my gages and I want to try to keep things looking as stock as possible inside.
Sam
Sam
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The reason I mention emissions is that most states require that the swap motor be of the same year or newer. 88 was the last year for speed density (in a Mustang). What year is your engine? I think to get around that all you need is a MAF swap kit.
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Well after waiting for FedEx to come for the last two days my box from NWOR finally came. Everything was packed well and nothing was damaged The Bellhousing looks strong and even has some reinforcement welds near potential weak spots around bolt holes. Now I really cant wait to get the motor out of the Runner and the 5.0 back in. Here are some pics
The clutch has an Asin center section and looks really good and strong.
Gotta get after it
The clutch has an Asin center section and looks really good and strong.
Gotta get after it
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That is the general rule here in Arizona as well. But I have found that if you have everything on the emissions sticker under the hood they don't really worry about the year the motor is from. And it doesn't require a special inspection unless the station fails you so I will see what happens. At the worst I can register it at my cabin in Prescott and there won't be any emissions required there.
#20
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I wonder how well this bellhousing located the 5.0 in the engine bay. Please take pics!!! If everything goes well with your install I may still consider this as well.
James
James