i have a 91 pickup i just picked up. i was going to go with the standard yota axle with trail gear sas. but ive been tossing around the idea of doing full widths now. ive been searching all over the internet (yota tech, pirate, marlin crawler etc) and it doesnt seem that there is any complete write ups on what you need to do to make this work.

i was thinking a d60 front 14b rear or a d70 rear. would like to keep the lift low but clear 38s-40s with decent flex.

what are the best axle choices? gear ratios? steering options without going hydro? any write ups people have found?

im trying to keep this build as cheap as possible without sacrificing quality so im planning on just doing leafs as opposed to coilovers. any info would be great. mostly looking for a descriptive build write up or list of the best parts to look for.

thanks!

kevin

 

i havent done alot of things with axles or much to them but an idea is rather than putting money into full widths why not stick with toyota and...
1 upgrade to lockers
2 upgrade to longfield axle
3 ditch the leafs and link it

for the tires i really think that the biggest size tire for not having to trim the body is going to be a 35 imo. i have a 93 ext. cab that i just did a sas on and before the flex was about 14" now with the springs worn a little its about 30" (might be more) but for 35's the gearing is 5.29 suggested. i dont know what your building the truck for whether its full blown RC or mud or weekened warrier, these will be the big deciding factor for what you should do or not.

hope this helps, who knows i might have been a rambling idiot....

ps. welcome to YT

 

im pretty educated in building a rig on fairly stock axles. i had an xj with longarms and an 8.8 rear end with arb's front and rear. it got stripped on fordyce.... and my plan with my new yota was to run the stock yota housings, trail gear dirty 30s up front, already have my 2nd t-case to build a doubler and stuff the 4.70 gears in the t-case and run 5.29s on 35s to 37s.

i was just wondering if it could be cheaper to run full widths on leafs instead of spending all the dough on lift kits and such. i know the yota axles are great but i just wanted to explore my options.

i have one buddy that just did the trail gear 3 link front end and is running triple rate coilovers on yota axles. hes already rolled it twice. im sure from being an idiot but made me start thinking about the stability of running full widths with a low lift. im not worried about cutting the body up. its going to be a rock crawler. but its gotta be able to drive to the trail. (usually 200 miles or more from me)

and thanks for welcoming me to yota tech. pirates got lots of info but when you want to ask a question it gets lame when everyone becomes a smart ass. thanks for your input as well.

 

are you gonna drive it every day?

 

I won't drive it everyday but I want it steetable. It needs to drive to the trail, wheel hard and drive home. My XJ on 35s could do it fine. I know a yota on stock axles can but full widths?

 

i love my full widths. think about this to. if your gonna wheel hard plan on keeping a spare birf and all the tools to change it every time you wheel. if you dont know, if you break a birf most of the time you will not be able to turn. full widths break it and drive home. on my runner i use newer dodge wheels and it makes them not even look full width! infact ive had about 3 people ask me who narrowed my axles.

 

i keep enough tools to tear my rig down when i wheel but thats just me. just the sound of getting stuck with no cell reception or way home scares me. my runner now has 14 bolt rear 60 front. HIGHLY doubt ill break them my goal is to build it so i can wheel it HARD the only thing i expect to break is a driveline or u joints. im also building an extra cab on yota axles but its gonna be my daily driver, the front yota axle is gonna be as strong if not stronger then a stock danna 44 so i guess if your not wanting to spend the money on a dana 60 front go with yota axles. thats my oppinion

 

and onthe width thing, do an ifs rear wheel spacers in the front and off set wheels and youll be like73-75 inches wide. thats what my friends got and he is a few inches less then my full widths with dodge rims

 

I'm not worried about width. I'll just mudflap it on the road. On your fullwidths what did u do for steering? How easy of an install was it? Whatd u do for springs? Front spring hangers? Gearing? Running yota tranny and cases? Can u actually drive on the freeway?

 

i have high steer on my dana 60 its a king pin 60 so it is easy to do high steer, install was the probly around the same as a yota axle. a sas is a sas fullwidth just needs to be a little wider. i built my own front hanger and i used frenched shackles in my frame from sky manufacturing, my front springs are allpro 5 in springs (IMO AMAZING) rears are chevy 63 inchers with 3 inch blocks i love those to. your pickup is gonna weigh ALOT less my runner weighs around 6000 pounds (fat a%#) stock auto trans soon ill install my dual cases with dual 4.7s, i have 37s with 4.10 gears and i can do 70-75 even 80 no prob on the freeway. but thats also with a 3.4.

 

That thing is SICK I want one!

 

thanks

 

The way that I look at it is that if you want to keep the price down.. stick with toyota parts, If you have the time and money do full width's...

I run a Dodge Dana 60 front with a 14Bolt rear. I also ran full hydro to keep things easy for steering then linked it all out