Ok so I FINALLY went to another shop after last year where I was horribly disgusted with what was supposed to be a super reputable shop didnt do a good job in the end. This guy has a brand new snap on setup and did a great job. Matter of fact the other place that did the job-NOTHING in spec really. So this guys job is perfect EXCEPT my damn steering wheel isnt straight..again for like the zillonith time!

So I decided to play with the tie rods, the pitman is perfect btw, totally aligned. I cant seem to get it dialed in right. I THOUGHT I had it right and went to work today, yea it drove into oncoming traffic unless I was careful. While slow at work I fixed it damn near perfect, but wheel isnt straight still. Id say its about 9 o'clock right now.

Google fu I find to adjust like so: For a wheel being too much left, shorten right tie rod and lengthen left. I dont have much adjustment left however so IDK. Both of the tie rod ends have about 2-3 threads left at the ends.

Is there a way to adjust the wheel at the box? I read a bit vaguely that I could possibly move the wheel if I changed where it connects at the box? Before you ask, no I cant take off the wheel and move it..airbag

Im soo frustrated, dont have the time to sit at a shop and dont want topay again either. This alignment was 100 bucks and I paid the other shop close to 2 grand since they rapped me for a steering box, multiple alignments and lower control arm bushings and a host of other stuff.

 

Go back to the shop and tell them you aren't satisfied because your steering wheel isnt straight. Make them fix it.

 

X2. Most alignment shops around here have a 6 month warranty.

 

CJM, you gotta understand, these trucks are a bear to align. In the 6 years I've had my truck, I've never had the steering wheel perfectly straight. Personally, If it doesn't wear tires, I wouldn't be worried.

However, if you insist, you can pull your steering wheel and just straighten it there. It's nothing to be scared of with the airbag. Just disconnect your battery and wait at least 90 seconds, then you are free to remove it, make your adjustment, and reinstall it.

 

Yea Im taking it back. Still annoys the bejesus out of tho that it isnt straight. Funny thing is about 40k ago I put on all new pitman, idler, tie rod ends and so forth. had it aligned and it was ON the money. Ever since I put the new wheels and tires on they cant seem to get it right. Stock wheels and 31's no issues at all, 16" and 4.25 backspace with 265's and always an issue.

The guy who did the alignment actually uncranked the t-bars slightly (maybe 1/2") and I dont like the look but he was able to get the other measurements much better in spec that way.

The one thing I cant figure out is why moving the tie rods around doesnt seem to correct the problem much. Ive done it on other stuff and eh you move them maybe a half or quarter of a turn and its like magic. I guess the entire setup has too much slop in it to begin with and with 260k its likely no matter what to have alot of slop.

One other question does anyone know if the older tundras (99-06) were easier to align? Im really considering getting one in the next few months if I can find a clean one. Plan is to lift it slightly like maybe 2 inches and 265's or 285's but IDK if it would be worth it.

Oh and FWIW: I swear this truck is cursed, if you search my post history you will find that the axle shafts bent and what I decided was they musta galled out the axle tube, new axle 2x and still vibrated and still leaked out the seal. Had to buy a complete used axle assy. Then there is the host of other issues this truck just keeps throwing at me. brake problems, alignment issues, heater core going bad, worn out bushings on everything, etc. Latest is the airbag light goes on and off when it wants too.. Yea shes an old truck..time to move on, but its hard to find one of them tundras that isnt rusted to hell or they want $$. Dare I say I might buy a chevy..

 

Took it back, guy redid it for free and got it dang near perfect.

However now the last month or so the power steering pumps been leaking. Looks like its coming from the pump. Ugh, more money to spend.

 

CJM, is it a OEM pump? Just get a seal kit for it. Not a lot of work to tear them down and reseal them, plus, if it ain't blown, why replace it?

Only quirky thing is make sure you get the vanes in the same direction they came out. Otherwise, first time you fire it up, it'll eat itself alive.

 

250000 yota, Ive never taken one apart-is it difficult to repair? Mechanic said the atf is coming right out the front by the pulley. I wonder if the reason it failed is some idiot who replaced the steering box for me put power steering fluid in and not atf, I flushed it but I dont think I got it all.

Also, Im not sure the seal kit is going to fix it as the pump itself seems to be going out. Its gotten harder to turn the wheel over the last few months.