No doubt about that!
I got too caught up in my own brain fart to thank him.

 

i installed this harness, $29 list, but got a 10% discount: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/h4-he...iy-h4hlrh.html

80amp magnetic relays, not solid state, with 30amp atm-type fuses.

it wasn't really long enough to mount the relay on the passenger side, then stretch the wiring to the drivers inner fender.

it didn't come with a bracket to mount the relays with.

the wiring had a bunch of chinese(?) characters on it, but fwiw the o.d. of the wire insulation was certainly bigger than the factory toyota headlight wiring.

haven't run it yet, just wanted to post some first impressions of the harness.

 

kinda off topic here, but i've been working on rewiring the headlights, and i can't seem to find any of the crimp connectors that go from the wire, into the gauge cluster. Anyone know where to find these, or have a good replacement?

 

I used this harness on my Tacoma. Works great with no problems yet.

 

Any idea if 4crawler will ever get the headlight harnesses back in stock? Or perhaps they're no longer going to sell them?

Just got around to measuring the voltage drop that my bone stock '94 Xtracab has in the factory headlight wiring, and sure enough, it looks like it's substantial (see attached pics). I don't mind making my own relay harness to remedy this, but I definitely wouldn't mind just purchasing one that's plug-and-play (or close to it, perhaps needing only to switch the bulb sockets or add in adapters).

Also, I see some harnesses on ebay that seem to be for this same purpose, but they don't seem to be vehicle-specific, plus they don't really specify whether it's for switched-ground like these trucks need or if they're switched-power. Any insight on what the best course of action is? Thanks dudes.

 

Yes... the post right above yours.

 

Is that the one you're running? Does that Low Range Off-Road harness meet all the criteria I see that everyone's discussed? ie, the proper wire gauge (rather than insulation O.D.), having ceramic plugs, lighting the high-beam indicator on the gauge cluster, etc etc ?



Cause if it does, then sheeeit I'll take one! I'll only be running whatever harness setup I go with on normal sealed-beam bulbs but I expect the increased voltage to make those at least acceptable. Eventually I might try out the Hella housings, but too many other to-do list entries for this pickup that ought to be sorted out before that.

 

[QUOTE=cbh148;52325101]Is that the one you're running?

No. I rewired the power side of my headlight circuit so I only needed to add one relay and a few feet of 12AWG wire. Based on OSV and se7enine's feedback that kit must be good.

It is commercial so it may not have all the ideal specs. However, it should satisfy the primary requirements of conversion harness:
1) Shorten and thicken the path of power and ground, from 15 or so feet of thin wire (22 AWG as someone suspects above) to a couple of feet straight from the battery (fused)
2) Relieve the dimmer-switch combo of the high current (illustrated here), and extend its life.

It's like choosing between inexpensive fast food that you do not know what people put in and your own home-cooked meal- perhaps more expensive and takes more time to prepare but you know exactly what went in it.

That is a good NEXT step. I initially upgraded to a AutoPAL from sealed beam but even upgrade halogens are still too dim, and Silverstar Ultras do not last as long for reasons that Sylvania itself admits to. Therefore, I bit the bullet and upgraded to Trucklites. More efficient, less load on alternator, safer because of brightness and great beam pattern, no more expense and time spent replacing bulbs.

 

Didn't know that about the Silverstars. I've heard great things about the Trucklites, and who knows -- maybe I'll end up with a pair if my lighting demands really ramp up (and I don't just add fog lights and such haha), but I've only seen pictures of them and the look bothers me more than it should. I know, "function over form", but it still sticks out more than I'd prefer.

I'll be satisfied to at least have the sealed beams performing like they're supposed to (speaking of the bulbs themselves, because by the look of it, the Toyota wiring almost seems like it's supposed to make for dim output lol). I've only had my Toyota pickup for about 8 months, but I've been into Nissan 240sx's for years, and the stock light output from the sealed beams in the flip-ups doesn't strike me as being all that bad -- certainly not like how it is in my Toyota, where a little bit of rain at night and suddenly I'm struggling to see the painted lines on the highway.

 

With the lowrange harness your Hi beam indicator will work but isn't as bright. At least that's how it was on my Tacoma. Output was good and even. I also went with Autopal's E-codes and Philips X-treme vision bulbs.

 

Just realized I never reported back here, but I got that headlight harness and it works fine. Seems to be making normal light output since it's not striking me as being particularly crappy lighting. The fact that I sort of forgot to give a followup here is a testament to the normality my '94 pickup's lighting system now has, as it's one of those cases of "you notice it when it's not working right, but you don't even think about em when they're working fine". Even the high-beam indicator works fine, and doesn't seem to be dim or anything out of the ordinary (for me at least). I still ought to check the multimeter voltage readings just to have some objective data to compare against.

Hope this helps someone.