4runnerJones

There is 12V on both sides of the 80 Amp fl. BUT not a broken wire or even a sign of corrosion on any wire under the fuse box.

RAD4Runner

Cool.
Now find how that 12V goes to the 40-amp fuse and what's keeping it from going there.

4runnerJones

I believe I have tracked down my problem! Rang out the left contact for the 40 amp fuse to a round connector on the drivers side right in front of the air box. I couldn't figure out where the other contact was going to until I peeled back the electrical tape and found THAT^^^

It was spliced into the wire that runs into the 80 amp fuse on the driver side just like you said! My dad should be home soon and hes going to help me fix this correctly.
Ive seen this type of connection in one other place on my truck. It looks really crappy but so old, surely that's not factory?

RAD4Runner

Cool! Not sure if factory crimp. However, Many splices on the truck are crimped like that. Highly-susceptible to corrosion. Here's what I do each time I have to mess with such a crimp to make it bullet-proof:
1) Clean wire/strands to bare metal. Make sure you do not break any strand. If you break strands - and you have extra length, trim wire to where you have all strands.
2a) Crimp wires using PARALLEL crimp connector. DO NOT EVER use BUTT connector. Parallel crimp is like this:

2b) If parallel crimp not available, twist wires together securely such that connection is mechanically secure.
3) Apply flux. Make sure it's not acidic that would also promote rust.
4) Solder
5) If near corrosive environment like battery, coat with liquid electrical tape.
6) Finally, insulate with electrical tape or heat-shrink
7) FORGET about that crimp for the next 500,000 miles

4runnerJones

Everything is fixed! Except my gauge lights still dont work? may be a fuse or something im not sure. Appreciate all the help RAD!!

RAD4Runner

Cool! Most welcome. Here are test points for dash lights...

4runnerJones

Thanks! I'll hold onto that picture but I realized after driving in the dark for 2 hours that I had my dimmer switch turned all the way down hahaha. Glad it was a simple fix

RAD4Runner

LOL! Happened to me with our Corolla - LOL!

na8stradamus

I ended up having the same symptoms on a 87 Pickup 22R. I followed RAD's instructions, and it led me to the exact same problem. First I removed and cleaned every pin and connection in the fuse box(slight corrosion) then I cut the corroded section of wire which was connected exactly like this picture(same exact wires in fact), and soldered it back together. I've been trying to figure this out for over a week, and now my main problem is solved. Everything works like it's supposed to again, only my Charge light is still on. Thanks to all of you guys, I would have never got this right without the info in this thread. Gonna grab some lunch, then inspect, clean & test the connections on the alternator.

RAD4Runner

Cool! Wanna post direct link to your charge light post so we can gang up on it ? LOL!

na8stradamus

Hey RAD, here it is: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131.../#post52364214

Also, dude, thanks for the info on this thread, you're a lifesaver.