Electric windows without key?
#1
Electric windows without key?
I camp a fair bit in my 3rd gen runner, and wonder if anyone has figured a way to rewire the windows so I can operate them without the ignition switch being on? I guess what I need is a way to keep those switches hot at all times. Any reason why I should not do this? I know just enough electronics to be dangerous, but ain't afraid to do some cutting and splicing. Maybe I will start another thread. but while I am asking stupid questions, anyone figured a way for a rear tailgate release from inside on a 3rd gen?
#2
Not a silly ?... if you have the factory alarm this might not work but...
consult the shop manuals (FSMs) linked here and look up your power window diagram.
to find the wire in the harness that supplies power to the windows and change the source to one that is always hot either with a new wire run from the batt. directly and fused the same as the original feeder (safest) or piggybacked on another always hot circuit (lights? lighter?) in the fusebox with an (add a circuit) adapter (not as safe, might overload circuit).
the 2gen windows/locks are fused for 30amps so you know these are powerpigs the add a circuit max is 10 amps and it does work (on mine) but I do occasionally blow the fuse and have to replace it... usually when tracks get dry and window is binding a bit... window action is also slower compared to stock.
hope this helped
aviator
edit there is a thread here I saw one time on the inside tailgate release thing... try a search... also look through our tech articles wiki it might be there
consult the shop manuals (FSMs) linked here and look up your power window diagram.
to find the wire in the harness that supplies power to the windows and change the source to one that is always hot either with a new wire run from the batt. directly and fused the same as the original feeder (safest) or piggybacked on another always hot circuit (lights? lighter?) in the fusebox with an (add a circuit) adapter (not as safe, might overload circuit).
the 2gen windows/locks are fused for 30amps so you know these are powerpigs the add a circuit max is 10 amps and it does work (on mine) but I do occasionally blow the fuse and have to replace it... usually when tracks get dry and window is binding a bit... window action is also slower compared to stock.
hope this helped
aviator
edit there is a thread here I saw one time on the inside tailgate release thing... try a search... also look through our tech articles wiki it might be there
Last edited by aviator; Oct 14, 2010 at 07:11 AM.
#3
Yep, basically what I did in my 1st gen:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#PowerWindows
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#PowerWindows
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