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Sorry for posting here. I would use the appearance sub forum but with the most recent post in 2012, it's clear it doesn't get much attention anymore. On with question
I just destroyed my tail gate on a tree this weekend. I have a replacement gate but its red. I bought some duplicolor color match paint that is pretty damn close to my runner. However, the clear coat is peeling everywhere and I have a few major dents and rust spots. I've been thinking of fixing up the dents and rust and repainting the whole truck. Now that I have to do the gate, rather than have it fresh and not match the beat look, I figure I may as well get to it.
My dilemma though, is the paint. After spraying a few practice shots on a fuel door, I really like the duplicolor paint. Problem is, it is only available in small spray cans. If Im going to do this, I will use proper spray guns. Does anybody know of any good durable paint that both closely match my paint code 196 pewter pearl and wont break the bank. Im willing to spend a few bills on paint and supplies but I don't want to spend a couple thousand. Its gonna get beat up.
I plan on doing all of the body/prep work and painting my self. It doesn't have to be perfect, it just has to be a decent 5 footer. Got any good tips for a first time painter? I plan on making a make shift paint booth from an old awning and plastic sheeting. I will do a 2 stage paint job so what is a good gloss clear? Should I use a reducer? I believe the original paint is an acrylic enamel. Is there a better paint to use like a urethane based paint like what Eastwood offers? Its gonna get scratched up so something that resist scratching is better.
Last edited by Kolton5543; 05-27-2019 at 10:19 PM.
Hi, I cant answer your specific questions about products but having spent last summer painting my own 4runner i can tell you there is a big learning curve if you've never painted a complete vehicle before. I learned a lot from youtube videos and got a lot of guidance at the auto body supply store where i bought the primer, paint, clear, tape, paper, abrasives, sanding blocks, buffer, etc.
Many decisions have to be made along the way. Each body panel may need different treatment than the previous one, whether there is rust, chipped paint, or just peeling clear. A simple respray in the same color is the easiest way to go. Don't think you have to remove all the old paint down to bare metal. If it is adhering well you just need to prep it for new color/clear.
Use good filler products such as Rage ultra..
Yes to a base coat/clear coat vs. single stage job. Its more forgiving for a first timer. Figure on 4 coats of color and 2 heavy coats of clear. Don’t fear runs in the clear. They are easily fixed.
You can get by with a cheap $35-45 gun for primer. You’ll need a better one for color and clear. Or just buy one from Eastwood for about $160 and it’ll cover both needs but its more convenient to have two.
I only have a 1 car garage so i painted the hood, front fenders doors and tailgate inside, but couldn't fit the truck and have enough room to work so i had to paint the cab and rear quarters outdoors. I started in March and the truck wasn't back on the road until Oct.
My results were very good, but If i had to do it again, i probably would do all the bodywork at once, then primer, then try to take it to a booth at a shop for color/clear, even Maaco might be a good option.
Doing a quality job yourself is not cheap but it is rewarding and i enjoyed the job.. Mine cost $1700 by the time you add all the products and tools.
please see my build thread for photos and more bodywork-related stuff.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 05-28-2019 at 03:56 AM.
Harbor Freight sells a spray gun people like for $9.99 with a coupon. It might be a good option for at least your primer. They do mail order if you're not close.
I did all the body work and took mine to Maaco. For $750 I think they did a great job. Each Maaco is independent and I went to one that has a good reputation. I've bought body supplies from this company and prices are better than Eastwood. They can match colors for nearly any old car: https://tcpglobal.com/pages/restoration-shop
Edit: Forgot to say in nearly all the advice I've seen they say to use the same clear coat line as the base coat to make sure they work together. You sounded like you were open to mixing brands. That would void any warranty.
Go to any touch up paint supplier on the internet like
Paintscratch.com and order what ever size you need to do the job. They have the base coat/clear coat system that work great. The preparation is the biggest hurdle
Your local auto body supply establishment is an invaluable resource, for knowledge as well as supplies.
Toyota reference changed his domain but you can't find your color codes there. Combined with tcp global and similar databases you can find the OEM paint.
There is a ton of orange peel in the OEM paint job, this won't be a big problem for a first time paint job its not a show vehicle. What is a bigger issue is the blending of the interior and exterior, and adhesion on the "sharp edges" between panels and around the doors.
If you have "peeling clear coat" you most likely have a metallic color scheme and this is not a single stage paint. You'll have to go with a multistage paint to replicate this.
From what I remember my 94 is actually three stages.
Harbor Freight sells a spray gun people like for $9.99 with a coupon. It might be a good option for at least your primer. They do mail order if you're not close.
I did all the body work and took mine to Maaco. For $750 I think they did a great job. Each Maaco is independent and I went to one that has a good reputation. I've bought body supplies from this company and prices are better than Eastwood. They can match colors for nearly any old car: https://tcpglobal.com/pages/restoration-shop
Edit: Forgot to say in nearly all the advice I've seen they say to use the same clear coat line as the base coat to make sure they work together. You sounded like you were open to mixing brands. That would void any warranty.
Thanks for mentioning TCP. I never heard of them. They look to have some good reviews on their restoration shop paint and the price is right with lots of colors to choose from with a few that closely match my original. It will likely be the route I take. I don't intend on mixing brands for the base and clear. I was just looking for a reputable supplier for a premixed system.
As for the spray guns, I'm thinking about the the inexpensive three gun kit from TCP. They also have great reviews and is less than $100.
I thought about doing most of the prep work and pay to have the paint done, but I don't think I will. Not so much of cost at that point but for for the sake of saying I did it. I'm pretty crafty and can up just about any task. So far I'm the only person to ever work on my truck aside from alignments. It's just one more of those things I can brag about when I say I built it. Plus its a skill I'd like to build as I don't think this will be the last project I'll ever have that need paint
Last edited by Kolton5543; 05-28-2019 at 09:25 PM.
Your local auto body supply establishment is an invaluable resource, for knowledge as well as supplies.
Toyota reference changed his domain but you can't find your color codes there. Combined with tcp global and similar databases you can find the OEM paint.
There is a ton of orange peel in the OEM paint job, this won't be a big problem for a first time paint job its not a show vehicle. What is a bigger issue is the blending of the interior and exterior, and adhesion on the "sharp edges" between panels and around the doors.
If you have "peeling clear coat" you most likely have a metallic color scheme and this is not a single stage paint. You'll have to go with a multistage paint to replicate this.
From what I remember my 94 is actually three stages.
There is a body shop here in town. Unfortunately their hours are the same as my work hours. I intend on trying to swing by and talk with them and see if they will even mix me some paint. I just haven't gotten the chance yet.
I already know my original paint code: 196 pewter pearl. It is a metallic base with a clear. As I said earlier, I intend on doing a 2 stage anyway so it should work fine for that.
I haven't noticed any orange peel in the factory paint, but I also haven't really looked either. This truck has had a rear end collision before so some of it has been redone once already. Fortunately there is no major bondo work on it mos tof the paint is just a peeling clear. Where it has peeled, the base has chalked and faded real bad.
I understand blending the door jambs is a little difficult, especially with a paint that doesn't match perfectly. In the case of this truck, as long as it's a close enough match. It's not a big deal for me. I just don't want it to be obviously redone, every time I open a door. I want to have to look for a mismatched tone. Resale value doesn't bother me at either. By the time it's ready for retirement, it wont have a resale value left anyway.
Last edited by Kolton5543; 05-28-2019 at 09:39 PM.
I thought about doing most of the prep work and pay to have the paint done, but I don't think I will. Not so much of cost at that point but for for the sake of saying I did it. I'm pretty crafty and can up just about any task. So far I'm the only person to ever work on my truck aside from alignments. It's just one more of those things I can brag about when I say I built it. Plus its a skill I'd like to build as I don't think this will be the last project I'll ever have that need paint
Yes! Pretty much the same reason i did mine. After all the bodywork, painting is really the fun part. This is a great vehicle to learn on. Its not some show Corvette or high dollar collectible. I would even avoid doing the jams if you can live with it. Maybe just rub whats there back to a shine. If you pull the doors, leave the seam sealer around the hinges as witness marks for re alignment.
As far as spray guns go, i swear these things must all be coming from the same factory in china now. But some makers have a reputation to protect. I have the Eastwood concours 2 gun and its great. Also repair parts are available. I got by with the HF line dryer and a disposable filter on the air line. Drain any water from your compressor first.
Yeah I don't plan on painting the jambs. They all still shine like new. That's why I'm looking for a close match color. I don't think I'm gonna take the doors off either. Just crack then open to get the edges.
05-27-2019, 10:15 PM
