Preventing the HG issues that plauge the 3.0 (3VZE)
Jan 19, 2009 | 11:52 PM
#1
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Preventing the HG issues that plauge the 3.0 (3VZE)
I tried searching but I didn't come up with anything.
I was curious on how to prevent the HG failures.
Thanks!
Heres what we got so far:
(Deathcougar) 1st thing would be to take off the horrid stock exhaust, and bolt on some headers. This way, instead of the exhaust running back into itself and THEN out, it will run straight out and keep the engine temps down.
Second would be to keep the truck in top operating condition at all times. If the truck is having an issue, don't just ignore it. replace o2 sensors, and other tune up items at regular intervals. Have the coolant flushed every couple of years, and replaced with factory toyota red coolant.
(ozziesmanoffroad) Take care of it.
(Adam F) Swap in a different motor!
I was curious on how to prevent the HG failures.
Thanks!
Heres what we got so far:
(Deathcougar) 1st thing would be to take off the horrid stock exhaust, and bolt on some headers. This way, instead of the exhaust running back into itself and THEN out, it will run straight out and keep the engine temps down.
Second would be to keep the truck in top operating condition at all times. If the truck is having an issue, don't just ignore it. replace o2 sensors, and other tune up items at regular intervals. Have the coolant flushed every couple of years, and replaced with factory toyota red coolant.
(ozziesmanoffroad) Take care of it.
(Adam F) Swap in a different motor!
Last edited by 24Runna; Jan 20, 2009 at 06:17 PM.
Jan 20, 2009 | 10:07 AM
#2
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From: Marysville, WA
It's impossible to prevent the inevitable.
However, there are some things you can do to delay it. 1st thing would be to take off the horrid stock exhaust, and bolt on some headers. This way, instead of the exhaust running back into itself and THEN out, it will run straight out and keep the engine temps down.
Second would be to keep the truck in top operating condition at all times. If the truck is having an issue, don't just ignore it. replace o2 sensors, and other tune up items at regular intervals. Have the coolant flushed every couple of years, and replaced with factory toyota red coolant.
Just a couple of suggestions. Of course, every engine will eventually fail, as will the head gasket on the 3VZ. The 3VZ head gasket is like Death and Taxes...things that can't be avoided.
However, there are some things you can do to delay it. 1st thing would be to take off the horrid stock exhaust, and bolt on some headers. This way, instead of the exhaust running back into itself and THEN out, it will run straight out and keep the engine temps down.
Second would be to keep the truck in top operating condition at all times. If the truck is having an issue, don't just ignore it. replace o2 sensors, and other tune up items at regular intervals. Have the coolant flushed every couple of years, and replaced with factory toyota red coolant.
Just a couple of suggestions. Of course, every engine will eventually fail, as will the head gasket on the 3VZ. The 3VZ head gasket is like Death and Taxes...things that can't be avoided.
Jan 21, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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From: Maryland
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Jan 21, 2009 | 05:58 PM
#8
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From: Gainesville Texas
Larger radiator, and a good high flowing fan to keep it cool. This is especially a good idea if you have trails that make you stay slow for long periods of time. KEEP YOUR RADIATOR CLEAN!!!! Man, I see many of these things with blown head gaskets that have the fins loaded with mud. And keep it under 85 on the highway. I have a buddy that went 85 down the highway every time he was on it, trashed the gaskets before 65,000 miles. Lower highway speed = lower rpm = cooler engine.
Jan 21, 2009 | 06:58 PM
#10
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From: Bend, OR.
one of the big problems with the 3.0 is the factory head studs are so weak that they will allow the whole head to vibrate. get some ARP studs/bolts for that top end and replace the factory junk with a high quality head gasket aswel. if you do that plus the headers like deathcougar mentioned you should greatly decrease its weakness 
Jan 21, 2009 | 07:37 PM
#11
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Thanks guys. This also brings to question, I have an engine with performance cams and with less than 20k on it coming with headers. Should I call the guys who did the engine and ask what parts they used? or while its out replace the gasket, stud and bolts.?
Keep in mind I will be going on a 7k mile roadtrip this summer, though for no more than 8 hours of driving in a day.
Anything else I should do before I put it in?
Keep in mind I will be going on a 7k mile roadtrip this summer, though for no more than 8 hours of driving in a day.
Anything else I should do before I put it in?
Feb 1, 2009 | 01:12 PM
#12
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Gear your diffs down to 5.29's for 31's. Make the engine work less... The auto can pull it off, has a small enough o/d gear...
Run synthetic to keep friction/heat down
If you have the time, pull the heads and replace with ARP studs and toyota gaskets (or rock gaskets)
Run synthetic to keep friction/heat down
If you have the time, pull the heads and replace with ARP studs and toyota gaskets (or rock gaskets)
Feb 1, 2009 | 01:19 PM
#13
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From: Burlington, VT
I dunno about that one...If its mostly around town driving the lower gearing'll help, but on the highway, the engines gonna be spinning waay high just to keep up with traffic, even with the OD. I don't have an auto so I can't say for sure though...
Feb 1, 2009 | 04:30 PM
#14
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From: Dakotas
I remember Johnny (Weasy2k) and I had a talk about the 3vze hg issues when he was installing my sea2sky cams.
He agreed with Deathcougar that the single biggest issue is replacing the stock manifold with headers and an exhaust. He said that this, combined with the cams would make a huge difference in engine temps, especially around the #6 cylinder on the passenger side (correct me if I'm wrong guys, which cylinder is the one that pops the most on the 3vz?) Anyways, he thought that the header/cam combo was a great HG insurance policy for this engine.
in regards to what jsn_stockard said, about keeping the radiator clean, that is a great idea. I have some crud on mine. What is the best way to clean that out, just spray it silly with a high pressure washer, or spray from the inside out, or pick out the insects/crap by hand, etc
He agreed with Deathcougar that the single biggest issue is replacing the stock manifold with headers and an exhaust. He said that this, combined with the cams would make a huge difference in engine temps, especially around the #6 cylinder on the passenger side (correct me if I'm wrong guys, which cylinder is the one that pops the most on the 3vz?) Anyways, he thought that the header/cam combo was a great HG insurance policy for this engine.
in regards to what jsn_stockard said, about keeping the radiator clean, that is a great idea. I have some crud on mine. What is the best way to clean that out, just spray it silly with a high pressure washer, or spray from the inside out, or pick out the insects/crap by hand, etc
Last edited by taikowaza; Feb 1, 2009 at 04:32 PM.
Feb 1, 2009 | 04:46 PM
#15
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Ask any auto owner, the od is too tall for stock gear ratios. At the same rpm it cruises like 30mph faster then a m/t truck.
Feb 2, 2009 | 08:26 AM
#17
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From: Oklahoma State
EB's special head bolt torquing proceedure
Quoted from EB:
Here's a another quote form EB, but I think he was talking about the 22re since he mentions retorquing after a full warm up, something that would be a major PITA for a 3vze.
Quoted from EB:
>>>*Morning!
*Quite a discussion. We always replace the head bolts on the 3VZE, mostly because of early on we had two cases of breaking them. This spoils a day quickly...
*Ever notice it is nearly always either the last one or the next to last one?...*LOL**
I personally won't make the studs, I do not own the equipment to roll the threads during the forming process. Sure, I could set up and cut the threads, this is much weaker than a formed and rolled out piece. *More work, too and I'm lazy.......All it takes is one little stress riser and the stud can break.
Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.
If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.
Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.
Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)
It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off...Hope this helps.....*EB
*Quite a discussion. We always replace the head bolts on the 3VZE, mostly because of early on we had two cases of breaking them. This spoils a day quickly...
*Ever notice it is nearly always either the last one or the next to last one?...*LOL**
I personally won't make the studs, I do not own the equipment to roll the threads during the forming process. Sure, I could set up and cut the threads, this is much weaker than a formed and rolled out piece. *More work, too and I'm lazy.......All it takes is one little stress riser and the stud can break.
Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.
If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.
Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.
Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)
It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off...Hope this helps.....*EB
>>>*Other than simple overheat, the #1 cause of head gasket failure is clamping force variations.
Usually when I mention this, the answer is "I torqued it properly!"
*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt....*EB
Usually when I mention this, the answer is "I torqued it properly!"
*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt....*EB
Feb 2, 2009 | 08:56 AM
#18
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From: TN/KY.
Feb 2, 2009 | 09:07 AM
#19
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From: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
For the Coolant/Antifreeze, check this out
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-else-165762/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...oolant-114994/
Sounds good to me. It think the performance cams, headers and this will keep my HG from blowing.
One more question, the people who rebuilt the engine that I'm buying don't remember what exact brand they used for the HG, are there any bad ones in particular? Also they used OEM studs. Since I'm getting the engine on a crate would it be worth the hassle to change it or should it be fine? Keep in mind it has headers, cams and intake.
Thanks.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-else-165762/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...oolant-114994/
Sounds good to me. It think the performance cams, headers and this will keep my HG from blowing.
One more question, the people who rebuilt the engine that I'm buying don't remember what exact brand they used for the HG, are there any bad ones in particular? Also they used OEM studs. Since I'm getting the engine on a crate would it be worth the hassle to change it or should it be fine? Keep in mind it has headers, cams and intake.
Thanks.
Last edited by 24Runna; Feb 2, 2009 at 09:22 AM.
Feb 2, 2009 | 11:32 AM
#20
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From: the beach
Second would be to keep the truck in top operating condition at all times. If the truck is having an issue, don't just ignore it. replace o2 sensors, and other tune up items at regular intervals. Have the coolant flushed every couple of years, and replaced with factory toyota red coolant.
