I am getting ready to have my sliders sand blasted and painted and reinstalled, after a year in the atic.

I am going to go with POR-15 this time around. For those of you who have applied it...

1) Does it fade in the sun badly? They say its not UV protected.

2) Did you add a top coat?

I would think that a top coat of rattle can would keep if from fading.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Use their undercoating. Read up on POR15 and you'll find it doesn't like sun. Play it safe and coat it. Its pricey but I think its worth it. Goes on the same as POR15 and dries a little rough. Has some gloss to it but dulls after time. Don't forget to paint your welds after you install them.

I LineXed my sliders just so they would match my bed. It was pricey and they do scrape on the bottom but they look sick. Post some pics after you get yours installed.

 

by undercoating you mean betweem the rust prevention paint and top-coat? I called them and they said nothing goes under the rust prevention shiznit

I'll probally get a can of their primer and throw a top coat of rattle can on....easy to touch up after I ding them up.

 

4Crawler talks a little about POR-15 on his sliderz page. Had him POR-15 mine before he sent them to me.

 

This is what you want:

http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/POR15S...3/Default.aspx

"Chassis Coat Black" Apply it on top of the POR 15 (not below it). Good stuff just wear gloves when you apply it. When I coated my Jeep frame with it, it took a good week to wear off. Try their starter kit which includes the marine clean and metal primer. Pretty cool stuff. Read up on it.

 

I just received my order of this:

http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/COMPLE...2/Default.aspx

I need to pull my doors off before I start my 1st priority POR15 project though.

 

Hope that size coats enough. Pint would have been more $ but you can put multiple layers on. When you're done seal it up real nice with some wax paper under the lid and inside a few plastic freezer bags. Stick it in the fridge and it will last longer. Gives it a longer shelf life and you can touch up your sliders after wheeling-

 

I am going to assume that one pint is enough for sliders, Then if I like it I'll have my rear bumper done too

 

Don't get any on your hootus!

 

that's a lot of $$ to put into a coating that you're going to scrap off on the first rock...

 

I look at it this way. My sliders dont rub on stuff all that often, but i need something stronger than rattle can since that wears off too easily. And I need something that will help prevent rust. I figure 50 for the POR and 30 for the sandblasting, still cheaper than powder coating or line-x

ordered 1 pint of POR and 1 pint of top coat

 

You also need to order the marine clean degreaser and the metal ready etcher if you want to do it properly or else the POR-15 won't work. It's a 4 step system with top coat paint, 3 step without.

 

Without top-coat, the paint become brittle and flakes off in short order.

Also, I have had better luck with genaric metal prep solutions and krylon self etching primer than with POR-15's prep products.

Lamm

 

Like Klean-Strip Phosphoric Prep & Etch?


Do you put the POR15 over the Krylon primer?

 

I used "Metal-Prep" from autozone on the bare metal.

Then the self etching primer, then the POR-15, then the top coat.

Lamm

 

Consider this product as well - Rust-Shield made by SEM. SEM is a trusted name in the autobody field, and while it's not mentioned on this tech sheet, it also comes in aerosol cans which is great for touch-ups. I actually found this thread while researching POR-15, but this product by SEM is far less expensive, and is readily available at autobody supply stores (although I will order it through our supplier at the body shop where I work).

Check it out:

http://www.sem.ws/tech_sheet/RSH%20TDS.pdf