ok guys...i can finally get my truck painted for graduation...so as soon as the motor gets put back in it..its goin to the paint booth..its getting done professionally for $100 (i know a guy who knows a guy..lmao) all i have to do is pay for the paint...

so what is the best paint???

im wanting either a dark mineral grey...or a jet black..thanks alot guys!

 

anybody......... i dont even know where to start

 

there are a lot of quality paints out there but the real key is in the prep work. you can't go wrong with any of the major manufacturers. if it was me i would get what your "professional" uses at work so he is familiar and doesn't run into any surprises spraying a different system.

as for color darker colors will magnify blemishes in the body whereas light colors show dirt. you also have to consider your jambs will be a different color. go to any auto body supply shop and look through there color chips, there are literally thousands of colors to choose from not to mention the variants of those colors.

$100? i would be very suspicous of this "professional" that won't even cover his material costs. i wouldn't even paint a hood for that.

 

For 100$ I doubt he will do any prep work..

 

I'd leave the paint alone, and don't change the color or you'll have a geigh paint job that's two different colors in the door jam.. You gotta remove the doors and engine if you want a decent full color change... I love old Yota's with beatup paint jobs, whats the worry about paint if you wheel it?

 

im pretty sure that ya'll dont know the guy....and YES..he said he will paint whatever he can..that means everywhere except under the hood...which doesnt bother me one bit...the only person that should be under that hood is me or my dad...

i've seen 5 of his cars with my own eyes..and looked them over REALLY good ('70 chevelle, 85 chevy, 72 chevy, 69 roadrunner, and a '69 charger) and if those people were willing to trust this guy to paint their cars....he can shoot mine.

If i had the $2000 for a complete professional job...then i would go that route...but if i can get my truck painted better than what i can do myself for less $500...im gonna do it..i was just asking a couple of simple questions..all this site is anymore is people bashing other people

 

Not trying to bash, really, but you always get what you pay for. I just repainted my 4Runner and I used all DuPont high end base/clear system and I spent $1,100 on materials alone (sandpaper, masking, filler, polyester fill, primer, base and clear). That was my cost, and I'm a shop. You can get much cheaper paint, but as always, the cheaper the product, the less durable it will be. As mentioned above, prep is the other most important part of a paint job. Even good paint will fail if the vehicle isn't prepped properly. Just remember it is always more expensive to fix a bad paint job, than it cost to do a good paint job the first time.

Unless you really, really want to, it's always easier NOT doing a color change (unless you don't care about the jams and such). There is alot of work doing a color change correctly. Just make sure what this guy intends on doing for that $100. If you are looking for a reasonable paint, go with Nason base/clear system. They were bought out by DuPont and most of their line is previous Dupont formulas.

 

wasn't trying to bash but caveat emptor.

can you explain what all you are going to have done? is the $100 just his labor to walk in and spray or what? are you responsible for buying all the prep materials, sand paper, masking tape, masking paper, primers, sealers, base coat, clear coat, body fillers, etc?

 

Becare full with "supposed", hook ups. I had a friend of a friend that new a guy theat would paint my jeep full doors for 6o$ After it was done he wanted another 200$ , because of some unexpected work? It was an ok job but seriously if you wheel your truck then put the money into the drivetrain. It would be a better investment, believe me I know!

 

Nah I ain't bashin ya man, Hell, I like both your trucks.. I'd just do the prepwork myself and have him shoot it, but thats a good deal. My beast is still tan under the hood and the truck is flat black, doesn't bother me any, but door jams would.

 

im buying Base Coat, clear coat, primer, sealer..hes doing the rest...im going to be prepping some and so is he...

i do wheel my truck..but its also the truck im taking to college...and work..and everywhere else i go..so i want it to look halfway decent..

and i hate the brown paint job...and the clear coat is pealing BAD..

i think i want to go with black..and yes i know its hard to get it to look GOOD...but..lets face it..black is one of the best colors for a vehicle..PERIOD

so im gonna start looking at some jet black..

after its shot..black rims, 5% tint all around, blacked out tail lights, an actual grill, blacked out as well...yes i love the murdered out look

 

i would get some flattener for the clear and really murder it. post a list of what you paid for everything i am sure a lot of people would be interested in the material cost of this kind of project.

 

if you want somthing that looks decent and fairs well to wheelin abuse you should use some enamel tractor paint with the hardener. its cheap and durable. and at about $27 a gallon its econmical and you wont be upset when you scratch it. like others said its all in the prep work. i just spent about a month getting my cab and front end painted. the painting only took me about 2 hours total. i had my doors off and stripped down to bare shells, my fenders and hood off, and all glass removed. i did some body work but didnt go crazy knowing its prolly gonna get a lil banged up in the woods.

 

see thats the thing..im not gonna be taking this to the places i used to...yea sure i'll do a LITTLE trail riding in my new town..MAYBE some muddin...but nothing like i used to...i cant afford to F@#$ up the truck again..im hoping to get it painted halfway decent..and call it good!...if the clear coat starts to peal in a few years who cares shoot some more clear on it..