i stay away from their fram crap, i get teh filter (mobil1) from either pepboys or autozone, i'm just there for the mobil1 in the 5 quart container $21.52 at super walmart...dodge has 2 filters a small and a large for the engines they make, an aftermarket small dodge filter is the same as our toyota filter (look one up next time your at autozone for like a neon), the big filter is the exact same thread and specs but its considerably larger. the dodge part number is 5281090...one of the guys i worked with use to use it his 93 22re all the time

 

Our Wal-mart carries all the major brands and it's the ONE thing I buy there since Castrol and M1 synthetics are only a little over $4/quart when purchased in the 5qt jugs. I just got some Castrol for under $22 for the jug and I got my bigger oil filter for $6 from pep boys.

 

Dont be afraid of a Purolator filter (Toyota US mades ones are Purolators) and also another good filter is the WIX. Of course, OE is ideal!

 

I see lots in here touting "oversized" filters. Great, concept, but has 2 drawbacks. First off, there is enough filtering in your OE filter, so its not needed. But for those who insist, consider this. Lets suppose you use the Ford Fram PH8A or Fords FL-1, nice large can. Drawback, if it bleeds down, you have a much larger filter to fill before you engine gets oil pressure and this is where the engine gets all its crank/bearing wear from. Now these larger filters for Fords have moved to the anti-drain back valve which is just a rubbler flap inside the outer holes (can see it with the eye) but these filters made for Fords do not have a bypass valve built into them. reason, Ford engines have the bypass built into the filter screw on base on the engine. The idea behind a bypass is several, one it allows a plugged filter to still supply engine oil, but its primary reason is those cold mornings where the oil is thick, pressure is the highest, and the oil is unable to go through the filter fast enough. Its pushes the bypass open and engine gets oil. If you use the FL1/PH8A, there is no bypass and the filter can literally "pop" open from the pressure and the restriction (heavy oil, cold morning) and all the oil runs out in a minute and the engine is done if not caught. Toyotas filters all have the bypass in the filter. Toyota never put a bypass in the engine block. Now you can use the Toyota filters on Fords, but not a good idea to go the other way. Just some food for thought. Now if the filter sets downward, the drainback isnt an issue as the filter will remain full of oil, ie the Toyota V8, Tacoma 2/3RZFE etc, but it still helps the siphoning affect. But the bypas sis always an issue. Bypass is visable if you look down the center at the bottom.

 

MDT is right about using only filters designed for yotas, bad idea to use anything else.

I use a walmart brand supertech (actually made by wix or purolator-cant recall which) and last time I used havoline oil b/c it was 10 bucks for 5 qts.

In my honest opinion if your gonna change it every 3k there is no reason you need to buy the expensive oil as it wont be in the truck long enough to take advantage of it properties and detergents. If anthing when I used castrol gtx high mileage in my camry it burned oil, when I switched to the walmart brand it didnt and ran better.

 

Wix filter, Quaker State 5-30 every 3000 miles.

I did add an oil filter relocation kit to get the oil filter setting right side up, and use a larger filter this way too.

 

Pennzoil 10W-30 with a Bosch filter every 5,000 miles.

 

I use Amsoil 5w-30 and Amsoil filters (oversizded PH8 eqivelant), oil every year (10-20K), filter every 5K.

 

I usually use a moble1 or quakerstate synthetic and usually a filter with a non-slip grip surface on it, I believe usually fram tough guard.

I couldn't say on milage I check my oil once a week and when it starts looking dirty i change it.

 

supertech oil filter. change it every other 3000miles.

 

So you change the oil but not the filter??? I personally go 5K on my filter, and more on the oil, but it seems odd to change the oil but not the filter, as the filter is so important...

 

for sure. ive been doing it on many of vehicles we have owned for over 10yrs. yeah, every board i came across was triggered by my method, but thats what the manuals of many vehicles tell you. let me knwo if new manuals have changed, cause ivent read it yet.

 

Which manuals say that?

I know good filters can last a long time, heck the ones I use now are rated for 15K... but the filter is what keeps good oil good, I dont like putting new oil in an old filter... maybe its just me...

 

i use moble 1 clean 5,000 with a napa gold filter 1516 and change it every 5k

 

Ditto. I also follow the rule of thumb, one thousand miles per quart of oil in all of my vehicles. Sounds reasonable to me and I heard it from someone in the oil analyzing business.