it's an anti-drainback valve. OEM has it as does NAPA Gold Filters - the only 2 i use. the last few changes, i've actually used the filter for a Ford Taurus with the 3.0 (pretty sure that's it - now i just replace it w/ the same NAPA Gold part number that i've been using). it's the same thread diameter and pitch and filter diameter as our 3.4L filters but it's about 1" to 1.5" longer with more filter area and the same anti-drainback valve.

i run a blend of 1 qt Royal Purple and the rest Mobil 1 Extended drain. i'll change the filter after 10k, add a half-quart to make up for what is lost during the change, and run it another 5k or more depending on how it looks.

works for me.

3000 mile oil change intervals for normal driving is for people with money to burn, people with not enough to worry about, or just too ignorant to care. most manufacturers suggest changing the oil between 5000 and 7500 miles. the more extreme the conditions, the sooner you should change it. high rpms, lots of acceleration, etc, and you change it slightly sooner than 7500 miles for dino. if you run in BAJA races every weekend, then your engine ingests dust and you should change it every 3000 miles.

if you look at who tells you to change it every 3000 miles, you'll realize that it's a fallacy. it's the oil change shops and the oil companies that came up with that recommendation to boost sales. it's worked.

 

every auto filter you can find at wal-mart, pep boys, auto zone etc etc will have an anti-drainback valve. I dont know of any manufactor that doesnt. Fram got its bad rap from an inferior anti-drainback valve design. It was allowed the oil to "drain back" so on start up the oil pump would have to pump all the way from the pan before the engine would be lubercated. I'm sure they have probably fixed the problem, if it wasnt just a rumor.

.....

Last oil change I actually picked up a Mobil 1 oil filter. It was definately contrusted alot better then anything else on the shelves, including the Pulator PureOne. I didnt realize until I was being rung up that the thing cost like 11-12 bucks!! Since I only change my oil like twice a year (every 3000 miles hehe) I figured it didnt really matter.

 

I am running an amsoil filter with amsoil 5w-30 oil. The oil filter is rated at 12,500 miles and the oil is rated at 25,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first.

I switched to amsoil when my vehicle had 108k on it, and I'm at 118k now. So the oil has gone 10,000 miles, which, in theory, isn't even half of what it's capable of going.

However, since my vehicle is getting kinda high up in mileage, I'm going to go ahead and put in a new amsoil filter in today and switch out the oil with amsoil 0w-30, with is 2000 series oil. It's rated at 35,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. I doubt I'll actually let it go that long, but I may let it go 20k or so.

You guys may think I'm crazy, but this is what amsoil says there oil is capable of doing, and if they were lying about it they probably wouldn't be able to stay in business.

 

I use castrol syntec oil changed at 6k and change out a Fram Double Guard 3614 every other week and top off. With this schedule it really doesnt matter what filter I use. LOL it seems I always have one quart of oil with a new filter floating around the floor boards on the pasenger side.

 

I use ACDelco Duraguard filters, oversized. I get them for free

 

damn, and I've been changing mine every 3000 miles... not any more after reading this thread. I went one time to 5000, was worried then, now I'm happy I at least got one long interval. I use Castrol GTX now but with new baby on the way ('98 4runner, 13,000miles) I'll start out on some Mobile1 and maybe a Wix filter...

Hell yeah , beers for everyone...

 

Alright here are my thoughts about the whole 3000 mile or 5000-7500 mile oil change intervals. The oil companies say 3k miles to sell more oil but the auto manufacturers say 5-7500 miles to sell more cars. This is just an idea here but if we only change at 5-7500 maybe they are figuring our cars will break down sooner so this way they could sell us another car sooner. It's possible. Only quite recently have we been extending our oil change intervals so I guess we will end up seeing in the long run who was right. Oil companies or Auto manufacturers. You be the Judge.

By the way I change my syn at about 6500 so I hope the manufacturers are right.

 

Ah, a possibility... I think of the big rigs though (tractor trailers). Those are the ones that have the most expensive engines and It seems that they use a lot of Amsoil... and they drive millions of miles on an engine before rebuild sometimes. The only thing I don't like about amsoil though is, acording to that test (with the Z-28) is that it got really thick from 30 to 40 weight during the test. Which is probably fine for a giant diesel. But may rob some fuel mileage from a 3.4

I will have to get me an amsoil 2-stage air filter though.

 

someone should get on a truck driver forum and see what they say about the oils...

:xmas3:

 

Amsoil SDF filters have been discontinued.. the new EAO filters are MUCH MUCH MUCH superior...And the SDF Filters where the best out there, IMO.

 

I use NAPA gold filters (Wix) every 3,000 or 3 months. Oil comes out just like it goes in.

 

OEM Lexus filters imported from Japan. And toyota oil only. valvoline in a pinch

 

If you really want to know the truth about OCIs and oil selection check the bobistheoilguy forums. You'll learn insane amoutn of stuff if you stick around.

3000 miles is way to short for even the cheapest API certified oil out there. Most dino oils are good for 4-5, usually no sweat. I good synthetic is easilly good for 7-9. The way this is determined is through UOA (Used Oil Analyses) which measure the amount of various compounds like additive packages and wear metals.

Just check out the forums.

 

I love my napa gold filter. That should be an option.

 

EVERYBODY says something like that, and I've never changed the oil in any car where this happened. Maybe it's just the conventional oil, but the oil in my 4runner always comes out of the pan in a jet black stream. It feels very clean between the fingers and the Pure One filter is always in good shape. I change the oil 4 times a year because I drive less than 10K per year on the runner. It's valvoilne max life either 10w-40 or 20w-50, and most of the time some lucas (I know I don't really need it but it does slow my leaks). I've sourced the leak to somewhere in the back of the motor. It's not valve cover, but it is coming from the back end of the engine on either side and dripping down over the transmission on to the front diff and oil pan. I think the oil pan gasket may be bad too.

Someone tell my what the deal is with my oil? and the leaks if anybody knows?

 

i usually just get the Fram (i think it is) that they have at Walmart when I buy my oil. I change my filter at every oil change which is 3k miles

 

I did not read the whole thread but I voted for OEM Toy Filter. I used the one made in Japan 90915-YZZB5/B9/20004. I do not use the one made by purolator labeled as toyota filter. I think it is labeled as YZZD3, because this is a cheapo filter. I rather use Wix or Napa gold filter better than YZZD3, this is my opinion and I'm sticking to it.

 

I Run A Trufilter Reusable Filter With Valvoline Durablend (since My 2nd Oil Change). Changed Every 3k No Exceptions. Sure The Oil Looks New But The Peace Of Mind Is Worth It.

 

I just had my engine replaced so for peace of mind I only use toyota OEM filters and oil.

 

Amsoil EAO, Ive heard wonderful things from yotatechers and dealers.