My Toy dealer gives me a new one everytime I buy a new filter. The new ones are more of a stiff cardboard than a plactic. Anyways, I check my oil every 2-3 days. When it JUST starts to look dirty I change it. Doesn't matter if was 3000K - 8000k or 200k.

Oh and I use the old Castrol GTX 10W30. Never had any problem with it.

 

My Dad taught me that to. He also taught me how to tune a carberator, but that doesn't mean I shouldn't ever use fuel injection. What I'm getting at is times have changed and so has oil quality. Especially with synthetics. Filters are much better then they used to be as well. After my recent rebuild I have used nothing but Mobil 1 and I plan on only changing it every 5-6K. I use the Wix filters and change them every oil change. Use only Shell, Texaco, or Chevron gas. Like said previously, it's your truck do what you want, but evolution does occur. Not everything you learned from the old school mechanics stands true today, but a lot of the values will always assure a job done right!

 

Are you serious? Fram had a write up on them not too long ago about them using materials that deteriorate and cause problems over the long run and basically quit filtering after a little while. Anyone got that link still?

 

I go 10k with Mobil1 0w40 with 5k filter changes. I usually use OEM but NAPA Gold and Wix are the other ones I also use. IMO 3k oil changes are a thing of the past. Manufacturers are requiring 5k and some 7.5k oil changes to maintain the warranty - I don't think they would do that if they knew that would damage the engine and raise warranty claims. IMO there is no reason to run dino oil. More frequent oil changes mean more oil that has to be recycled/thrown away. Synthetic oil lubricates better, doesn't break down as easily, and lowers pollution (landfill space/byproducts of recycling).

I've done a few oil analysis on my engine and have even gone 15k with very positive results. What you should be worried about in the oil is the additive package and not the color. Oil is designed to carry the byproducts of combustion in it. It should get dirty looking over time but the color has nothing to do with how well the oil lubricates. Viscosity will deteriorate as the additive package of the oil degrades. I own a diesel that turns its oil black in less than 100 miles. I use Mobil Delvac1 in that one and an oil analysis after 10k showed it should easily go another 10k miles.

What will really lengthen the engine life is the filtration of the oil. Bypass filters have been shown to significantly extend oil life which lowers wear in the engine. Run good filters, change them at normal intervals, and run the best oil you can get.

 

I like the oem:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=6;t=002099

 

One problem with their study is they are judging it on structure. I could care less how well it is built or how many gadgets they have in the thing. For all I know they could shove it full of charmin, but if it filter oil better and does not deteriorate, then it is a good filter. I think the only studies to really pay attention to are how well they filter. It is still cool to see inside the thing, though.

 

Change oil every 3000 for past 225,000 and the motor is original '88 22re.

 

Syn oil with Fram double gaurd filter. Both get changed at the same time when oil starts getting dirty.

 

Your supposed to change the oil?

 

Wow, what a thread!! I personally like to use recycled oil with Fram filters, on top of that I change my oil every 10K. Just kidding.

Most of the time I use AC Delco filters and Pennzoil (I work for GM and that's just what is handy). I also use a BG MOA every oil change. When at the store I look for Wix filters. K&N and Fram are crap.

Wix filters are awesome filters. Dino oil is just fine as long as it meets the engineering standards. Look on the back of the bottle folks. I'd use any good name brand oil. Synthetics are fine, but a waste of money in my opinion unless your engine is specifically designed to use synthetics.

As for the interval change... I go every 3K or sooner. Truthfully one can go 7K or more between oil changes. But for the cost why bother? At my cost I can do an oil change for $9. But even without a discount I imagine an average of say $20? I think that's super cheap. Heck I spend way more to fill up the tank. (Chevron only)

The other reason I go every 3K is that it gives me an opportunity to look at everything else. I check for leaks, check my other fluids, see if something is getting loose, rusted or breaking, check my tire pressure, etc. It's just a good habit.

By the way, and this applies to all fluids. Just because it "looks" ok doesn't mean it is okay. If you were to take a PH test of your brake fluid, I'd bet a good 75% of you out there have water in your brake fluid and need a flush. However, it can look just fine and dandy. The fact of the matter is that additives are in all automotive fluids and these additives can break down and may show no physical signs of breakdown.

-Wrench

 

I usually do 4,000 mile intervals.

 

I use a Purolator filter and quaker state 5w-30. I change the oil and filter together at 5000 kilometers(3000 miles) or twice a year(spring and fall). My oil still look good when it gets dumped but with the extreme weather we have, it just isn't worth guessing if its still good. I would rather pay 20 bucks a oil, filter change then thousands all at once for a motor.

 

I bought my '97 runner with 127K on the clock and switched it over to Mobil 1 first thing. I've got 150K on it now and still no leaks.

BTW, Fram filter and Mobil 1 every 7-8K miles. Mostly road use.

 

I use Mobil 1 filters after reading this study....www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

 

Mobil 1 for the life of the vehicle, OEM filters. Change every 3-5k. however, my starts to look dirty pretty fast, and I suspect it's the stupid K&N filter, I'm going back to paper and hopefully I can run the oil a little longer. how do I know if the OEM's I have are Japanese or not? just wondering...
oh, and another question. 84k on a 2000 4x4, no offroading (yet) babied by previous owner, I drive it like a grandpa but on my last change I noticed an oil leak, transmission guy id'ed it as the rear main seal. my good friend and I crawled underneith, looks to be true. Mobil 1 all the time, could it have anything to do with such an early leak on my rear seal?

 

What is this filter you speak of?
I only add oil when mine doesn't touch the stick anymore!

 

Amsoil super duty filters

 

or

 

I use OEM filters and Mobil1 dino oil and change it every 3-4K. I drive alot and in a lot of stop and go traffic so I need to make sure my oil is good and clean. I can put 3K on my truck in a month sometimes

 

i use "Mobil1-15w50" every 3k & on my upcoming change, i plan on using a "Proline" filter, having used a "Fram", "Purolator", "Bosch" & some others it seems like that i cannot manage to recall off of the top of my head, even a "K&N"(currently) as i'm "shopping around" to see what works best.