What about the break-in period oil change routine? My father is a mechanic too. I was always told to change my oil @ 500, 1000, 2000, and then 3000 miles to get all of the new engine wear and such out. What's up with that little oval plastic piece covering the oil drain plug? Any of you guys lost yours yet? I don't think it does much, but they must have added it in for about $50 with the cost of the truck. Who can I can to get my money back? hehe, j/k

 

This is the last reply I am posting. I just wanted to say, TechWrench, drop it! Everyone is different, I realize that. You got your word in now, so please no more.

 

The break in period is kinda a thing of the past from what ive heard other than some tell you to watch driving at constant speeds and high speeds for the 1st 500 miles or so. I have always changed every new vehicle's oil I've at 2K and went to synthetic though just for piece of mind. Some worry about syn that early but some factory cars now come with Mobil1 so Im not to worried about it.

 

I'm done.

 

"because I bought it with over 100k so I couldn't switch over to syn"

please explain why this is a bad idea. I bought my truck with 110 k and would like to switch to syn so I dont have to change the oil as much and also for less engine wear.

I say continue the mileage argument. I have learned alot from it. It is good to see different opinions. Also I like to see the extemes of both ends, how far can you go with out messing up the engine and how much money can be spent on oil. Then I can come up with what I feel is right for me. At the very least it makes me laugh.

I change oil every 3k currently with different oil and filter brands every time but that will change next oil change based on what I am learning here.

 

With any other brand besides AMSOIL you can go up to the manufacturer's recommended interval -- beyond that and you are on your own with any problems. With AMSOIL's SAE 5W-30 you can go 25K miles or one year, whichever comes first. Of course you still need to change the filter and when you do that you just top off the oil level. This is the most cost-effective solution for most people. With a bypass filtration system you can extend your drain intervals indefinitely with periodic oil analysis, but this is typically only cost-effective for vehicles with large sumps such as diesel engines...

Regards,
~ Fred

 

I run Amsoil and read bobistheoilguy daily, Amsoil's great but the whole 25k mile thing isnt always working even with amsoil, the UOA's show it. I just rana 4k mile UOA on amsoil asl 5w-30 and it looked great, so Im shooting for 6k next time. Anyone that changes dino every 3k miles is a moron. Even the cheapest pennzoil still looks decent at 3500-4k miles, granted they wont go much further. Dino's like castrol gtx look good at 5k miles. Its just plain retarded to change oil every 3k miles.

 

Okay, huddle up everybody.

1. ANY oil can become bad at 3000 miles if the engine is running poorly or there are gasket leaks.

2. The reason you typically don't want to switch to synthetic oil on high-mileage vehicles is the risk of developing leaks. The dino oil plugged up the tiny little leaks around your gaskets. When you put synthetic oil in there, it has a tendency to clean out all the 'gunk' left behind by the dino oil. This means that if the dino oil had plugged a leak, the synthetic oil will likely wash it out, revealing the gap and causing a leak.

3. Be nice, people! It is way too late at night for me to be reading such continuous bickering. Go over to 4x4Wire and read a post where Mod Man and I got into it. We got a little ticked with each other and then quickly resolved it. Let's chill out, write your opinions in a respectful manner and stick to the topic.... Oil.

-Scott

 

By the way, Edge, I love reading your posts.

Maybe it is that, or maybe I just like your avatar photograph!



-Sherpa

Oh yeah, and to say on topic, I run 0w30 Amsoil and usually a Bosch filter. It is a lot less expensive than the Mobil 1 filter, and filters nearly as well. Why wasn't it included in the poll?

-S

 

"Well, Im a Preventative Maintenance nut and I like to plan to replace before things fail."

"Anyone that changes dino every 3k miles is a moron. Even the cheapest pennzoil still looks decent at 3500-4k miles, granted they wont go much further."

If wont go much further than 4k than how come one can not change it at 3k with out moron status?

"Dino's like castrol gtx look good at 5k miles. Its just plain retarded to change oil every 3k miles."

There has to be exceptions to this no? Hauling, towing, teenage style driving habits, low vehical use. Why I got to be retarded?

 

Has anyone tried the new Napa Spin-Flow oil filter?
I just put one on about 350 miles ago with Quaker State 10-30W dino. I change my oil about every 3000 miles because I want this engine to last a long time. I got it with 30,000 and I have put about 4,000 on it already in the past 4-5 months.
When is it safe to switch to synthetic?
Thanks

 

Carquest Premium filter or Toyota filter and Mobil 1 Syn every 5k.

 

Anytime now.

If I buy a truck/car brand new and I was planning on synthetic I'd do it after 6000 miles of dino oil.

 

I use the Wix filters and Mobil 1. The oil is changed 6 months or 7500 miles.

 

I've been using Purealator PureOne filters for a while but my frind gave me a $5 off coupon for a K&N oil filter which just was installed yesterday so I'm gonna see how it does.

 

Fram's filter with the gripper job on it. Works fine.

 

The Walmart filter i am told is made by STP. Super Tech. $2.00.

 

Ok, some things on oil filters:
- K&N is frequently referred to as "K&crap" by a lot of people who know better. Why? Because they don't filter terribly well. Generally you want a filter to be rated to less than 15 microns. K&N's at their best are around 18, average about 20. Yikes.
- Fram is hands down the worst filter you can buy. Period. No questions, and no it doesn't work "fine" to whoever posted that - what it does is let oil through, but they are pure and total ˟˟˟˟. If someone put a Fram filter on one of my vehicles, I would take it off and stick it up their ass with a quickness. Stay away from these.
- Best bang for the buck? Wix is right up there. They also manufacture the NAPA Gold and Carquest Premium filters. They get down to 8 microns in absolute testing, hold up, and flow well when cold. Not terribly expensive either. I use these on my race machines if that tells you anything - and those get abused at redline pretty much all of the time.
- OEM filters are good as well. Probably filter in the 10-15 micron range. Not very expensive, though IMO the Wix/Wix-rebranded versions are better and likely same cost or cheaper. However there is no shame in using an OEM filter if that's what ya got.

The dirt you want to filter is sub-15 micron. You want a filter that gets as small as possible. If it isn't catching those particles, you are pumping crap through your motor that you really don't want to.

Of course, choose what you like...

 

Fram is crap!! I use Wix.

 

I used to use the K&N oil filter with Mobile 1 but now I use all AMSOIL filter and oils.www.puresynthetics.com