View Poll Results: Which filter
Purolater Pure One
68
11.60%
Amsoil Super Duty
48
8.19%
Toyota OEM
255
43.52%
Other
215
36.69%
Voters: 586. You may not vote on this poll
oil filter poll
Jul 7, 2006 | 11:46 AM
#141
Contributing Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,047
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Sunday BBQ
Holy crap! I can't believe you guys what 5, 6, or 7k miles for an oil change!!! Don't you know that you are supossed to do it every 3k? Most of the time, I don't even wait 3000 miles before I change the oil. Wow.... you guys are crazy... especially if you go off-roading.
Sorry, had to rant, dont mean to
Jul 10, 2006 | 06:40 AM
#144
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: St.Peters Missouri
Originally Posted by 04 Rocko Taco
Any oil that cant go for 10,000 miles these days shouldn't be sold. Im not saying wait for 10K, I change mine around every 5K with Castrol and Fram Toughgaurd filters, sue me. But oil at every 3K is an antiquated tradition, made for old hot rods that burned as much oil as gas and before oil technology came along a ways. If you want to change at 2K then no problems then, go ahead, but dont go around saying holy crap to the 5K guys.
Sorry, had to rant, dont mean to
Sorry, had to rant, dont mean to
ooh well there goes my second vehicle and the car dad gave me and i gave to him off to the kidney foundation
damn kids that just want to abuse their vehicles and not worry about how much dad is gonna pay to fix it
now the punk wants an eclipse and i told him you better not get any thing to expensive b/c you 'll forget ot do another crittical maintenance step like checking your oil and fry that car he then told me to ˟˟˟˟
Jul 10, 2006 | 11:30 PM
#145
Contributing Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Asheville, NC
Yer son told you to ˟˟˟˟? Heh.. and with those words would have been my reply of "Oh Really? Well then you can buy yer own damn car" :complain: lol..(J/K)... Or better yet, find something that "Needs Work" and make him do some of the work himself along with you and he might be less likely to forget to check major items like oil/filters/fluids etc.. I have seen it work before.. 
Ok.. so my 2 cents on oil...
I use Castrol GTX 10-30 in winter and 20-50 in summer the Filter is useually a Purolator... Oh.. and I do mine every 3K... same with my 79 Camaro..
lol
Aug 1, 2006 | 08:22 AM
#147
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: St.Peters Missouri
Originally Posted by 1SICK91
Yer son told you to ˟˟˟˟? Heh.. and with those words would have been my reply of "Oh Really? Well then you can buy yer own damn car" :complain: lol..(J/K)...[SIZE=2] Or better yet, find something that "Needs Work" and make him do some of the work himself along with you and he might be less likely to forget to check major items like oil/filters/fluids etc.. I have seen it work before.. Ok.. so my 2 cents on oil...I use Castrol GTX 10-30 in winter and 20-50 in summer the Filter is useually a Purolator... Oh.. and I do mine every 3K... same with my 79 Camaro..
YEAH HE GOT A 90 INTEGRA FOR 1500 AND I'VE BEEN BUSTING MY BUTT IN THE HEAT TO GET IT WORKING RIGHT
Brakes (pads and rotors on all 4 corners)
Fluids (less than 1/2 qt oil and water in cooling system when picked up - didn't find out till we got home)
went to shop for $460 work b/c i was tired of doing it all for free (plus it needed an inspection - brakes barely passed so new went on)
Oil drain plug was stripped out so next size up fix kit was used
it was burning oil like mad but is now under control and not losing any ( 1 can of engine restore and 1 can of stop smoke later - bros idea i would have tried to pinpoint the problem b4 the quick fixes went in b/c i'll end up rebuilding that thing in 2 years or less - or putting in a different engine)
a/c still needs work
manual trans. needs fluids changed
but my bro is going to teach me how to drive a man. trans. b/c of all the work and dad gave me $100 off the $1400 tab b/c i did the brakes
Sep 1, 2006 | 06:21 AM
#148
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: New Market, MD
'99 Limited 3.4 liter 185,000 miles.
Toyota filter
Mobill 1 5W30
5,000 mile interval
I switched over to synthetic at 150,000 miles with zero problems. I doesn't use a drop of oil and gets 20 mpg on the highway.
Toyota filter
Mobill 1 5W30
5,000 mile interval
I switched over to synthetic at 150,000 miles with zero problems. I doesn't use a drop of oil and gets 20 mpg on the highway.
Sep 6, 2006 | 10:23 PM
#150
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: VA
Oil Filter Poll
For those having the latest model engines with the filter on top in the engine bay, the Toyota brand with the Check Valve is the way to go. Not sure if any other brands utilize this technology. The whole reason Toyota put the Filter on top was to allow for better lubrication of the valve train during start ups. The Check Valve system holds the oil up near these critical components and not utilizing it defeats the Toyota innovative technology.
Recommended change interval is 5k miles with normal driving conditions. Certainly, synthetic oils allow for longer intervals.
Also, driving very little requires changing the oil at lower mileage intervals. Our dealership has a 2005 Scion TC with only 24K miles that is badly damaged by sludge because it sat for over a year after the being driven for 23K.
Recommended change interval is 5k miles with normal driving conditions. Certainly, synthetic oils allow for longer intervals.
Also, driving very little requires changing the oil at lower mileage intervals. Our dealership has a 2005 Scion TC with only 24K miles that is badly damaged by sludge because it sat for over a year after the being driven for 23K.
Sep 6, 2006 | 11:08 PM
#151
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Glenville, NY
For those having the latest model engines with the filter on top in the engine bay, the Toyota brand with the Check Valve is the way to go. Not sure if any other brands utilize this technology. The whole reason Toyota put the Filter on top was to allow for better lubrication of the valve train during start ups. The Check Valve system holds the oil up near these critical components and not utilizing it defeats the Toyota innovative technology.
Recommended change interval is 5k miles with normal driving conditions. Certainly, synthetic oils allow for longer intervals.
Also, driving very little requires changing the oil at lower mileage intervals. Our dealership has a 2005 Scion TC with only 24K miles that is badly damaged by sludge because it sat for over a year after the being driven for 23K.
Recommended change interval is 5k miles with normal driving conditions. Certainly, synthetic oils allow for longer intervals.
Also, driving very little requires changing the oil at lower mileage intervals. Our dealership has a 2005 Scion TC with only 24K miles that is badly damaged by sludge because it sat for over a year after the being driven for 23K.
Sep 12, 2006 | 02:22 PM
#153
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Ok, some things on oil filters:
- K&N is frequently referred to as "K&crap" by a lot of people who know better. Why? Because they don't filter terribly well. Generally you want a filter to be rated to less than 15 microns. K&N's at their best are around 18, average about 20. Yikes.
- Fram is hands down the worst filter you can buy. Period. No questions, and no it doesn't work "fine" to whoever posted that - what it does is let oil through, but they are pure and total ÅÅÅÅ. If someone put a Fram filter on one of my vehicles, I would take it off and stick it up their ass with a quickness. Stay away from these.
- Best bang for the buck? Wix is right up there. They also manufacture the NAPA Gold and Carquest Premium filters. They get down to 8 microns in absolute testing, hold up, and flow well when cold. Not terribly expensive either. I use these on my race machines if that tells you anything - and those get abused at redline pretty much all of the time.
- OEM filters are good as well. Probably filter in the 10-15 micron range. Not very expensive, though IMO the Wix/Wix-rebranded versions are better and likely same cost or cheaper. However there is no shame in using an OEM filter if that's what ya got.
The dirt you want to filter is sub-15 micron. You want a filter that gets as small as possible. If it isn't catching those particles, you are pumping crap through your motor that you really don't want to.
Of course, choose what you like...
- K&N is frequently referred to as "K&crap" by a lot of people who know better. Why? Because they don't filter terribly well. Generally you want a filter to be rated to less than 15 microns. K&N's at their best are around 18, average about 20. Yikes.
- Fram is hands down the worst filter you can buy. Period. No questions, and no it doesn't work "fine" to whoever posted that - what it does is let oil through, but they are pure and total ÅÅÅÅ. If someone put a Fram filter on one of my vehicles, I would take it off and stick it up their ass with a quickness. Stay away from these.
- Best bang for the buck? Wix is right up there. They also manufacture the NAPA Gold and Carquest Premium filters. They get down to 8 microns in absolute testing, hold up, and flow well when cold. Not terribly expensive either. I use these on my race machines if that tells you anything - and those get abused at redline pretty much all of the time.
- OEM filters are good as well. Probably filter in the 10-15 micron range. Not very expensive, though IMO the Wix/Wix-rebranded versions are better and likely same cost or cheaper. However there is no shame in using an OEM filter if that's what ya got.
The dirt you want to filter is sub-15 micron. You want a filter that gets as small as possible. If it isn't catching those particles, you are pumping crap through your motor that you really don't want to.
Of course, choose what you like...
Last edited by kdawghuntnfish; Sep 12, 2006 at 04:55 PM.
Sep 25, 2006 | 03:36 PM
#154
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Oil Filter Reviews
Here is an informative site on oil filters, and interesting reading, as well. This guy focuses on V-8 oil filters, but I'm willing to bet that construction is quite similar for Oriental engine filters as well.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
Last edited by simcare; Sep 25, 2006 at 03:41 PM.
Sep 26, 2006 | 08:17 PM
#155
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I changed my oil and oil filter about 2K miles ago. When I went to pick up the new filters that I ordered from Toyota, they gave me 90915-YZZD1. However, when I took my old filter off it was *-YZZD3. The D3 is a longer oil filter than the D1. Why did I get different oil filters. If I buy them from a toyota dealership in springfield MO, i get a D3 and if I buy them in Joplin, they always give me a D1. Anyone know anything about this?
Oct 21, 2006 | 10:06 PM
#157
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,546
Likes: 1
From: Nashville, TN
Oct 22, 2006 | 03:43 AM
#159
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,655
Likes: 0
From: Idaho
Toyota has the same thread pitch and gasket size as many ford rigs. I use the equilevant of a Fram 8 on my 22re, but its too wide for a 3.4. Need to find a tall skinny one, havent heard if the taurus is it, but its quite possible.
