I got myself an Interstate MTP-24 battery (1000 amps, 800 cca) for my '95 4R. Hopefully, the combination of that and the h/o alternator and the future big 3 upgrade will eliminate the electrical issues I've been having for the last 8 years or so. Whatever battery I use tends to last a year or so before it goes completely dead. I think the issue is the stock alternator not being able to keep up with all the accessorics I have in there.
This battery is about an inch taller than a stock height battery. I tried using the factory battery hold down, but the front part that mounts to the radiator support sits too high and doesn't allow the hood to properly close. I tried a couple of generic hold downs found in stores and they don't completely keep the battery from moving like the stock one does. I'm concerned that one day I'll take a corner fast or something and that bigger battery is going to slide into the pulley.
I could use the stock hold down if I could get the front part to bend back down and sit flush with the rad support. Has anyone here seen a solution to securely fasten a taller battery? I've searched and haven't come up with anything anywhere. If not, I'll try to fabricate something myself, but it probably wont look very good.

Thanks!!!

 

Two words. Bungy cord.

 

Fashion your own support or make a better battery tray that sits lower.

 

Find a tray that uses (i think) the ford style hold down. The type that has the bottom clamps.

 

(1) I'm not using a bungee cord. That would be worse than the generic hold down I'm using now. But I think you were kidding . . . atleast I hope you are.
(2)I did have to replace the battery tray because the battery is also wider and overlapped the battery tray. The battery tray sits on the front wheel well which is rounded. On top of that is welded a flat bracket for the purpose of providing a flat surface for the battery (tray) to sit on. I can't think of a way to make that sit much lower and still stay flat.
(3)Not sure if I'm thinking about what you're referring to or not reggie 00. The new battery tray does have 'loops' in it in which 'J-Hooks' can be used to mount the battery to the tray. This is what I am currently using, but it still allows the battery to slide side-to-side. The original hold down doesn't allow any movement of the battery.

 

[QUOTE=T4R 4ME;50386788(3)Not sure if I'm thinking about what you're referring to or not reggie 00. The new battery tray does have 'loops' in it in which 'J-Hooks' can be used to mount the battery to the tray. This is what I am currently using, but it still allows the battery to slide side-to-side. The original hold down doesn't allow any movement of the battery.[/QUOTE]

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Ya i know, but find something like it and mod the pan to fit. i had i a set up like this in my 73 Cj and my 78 K5 blazer, wife's 71 F100, the thing doesn't move. If i remember right one end slides in place and the clamp locks the other end in and keeps it from moving.

 

Ready Rod.

 

Care to elaborate?

 

If the battery is tall enough to make the hood not close properly, then you might not want to put it in there at all. If it is too close to the hood then the positive terminal will arc. What kind of accessories do you have? I am thinking that you have a bigger problem than just the battery. If you have a large enough alternator, then it will power your accessories and you will not have to worry about getting a larger battery.

 

Bungie cord... Pfft, its ALL about the bailing wire! I've said it before, and I'll say it again: If you caint fix it with duct tape, bailing wire, hope, and a prayer, you dun did a good number on 'er!

 

Its not the battery that is causing the hood not to close, its the original hold down that is mounted to the radiator support. The battery is higher so the hold down sits higher (a pic would come in handy right now). I just put that alternator in the same time as the battery so I haven't run with it long enough th be positive it solved the issue, but I'm pretty sure it did.

I'm not getting anywhere trying to find anything. I think I'm going to have to fabricate my own.

 

Ready Rod which is threaded rod, At the bottom inch bend outwards into a "J" shape so it 'hooks' into that little slot stamped in your steel metal. Cut the rest to the required length.

 

*Double Post, sorry

 

Pipe strapping, that 1/2"(or so) wide metal with equal distant holes in it, you can buy it by the roll, cheap.

 

Same concept as what I'm using now, those 'J' hooks sold in the battery department in parts stores. Battery still slides around a bit though.

 

You might be onto something here. I might give something like this a try.

Thanks!!!