I have a 1991 Toyota 2WD pickup with 178,000 miles on it. I am doing a top end rebuild, new head, new timing kit, with oil pump and timing cover. Well I was going to drop the oil pan to clean it, becasue all the timing rails broke and I assume they are in there, Should I replace the rod bearings while I am under there? And do rod bearings usually go out before the crankshaft bearings? Thanks.

 

you have to draw the line at the top end or go all the way.
this is the big leagues.

 

This engine is not a big league engine, I'm just saying while I am down there why not replace the connecting rod bearings, it only cost $20 to replace them

 

You can do the mains and rods now or in a few weeks.

It is really your call.

Rebuilding the whole Top end now makes the bottom the weak link do it now or in a few weeks .

Seen this happen all to often after learning first hand myself.

 

Thats ridiculous. If the bottom end is good its good. New top end should have no effect other than a little more compression at best. If the bottom end was wore out...then it would have went anyways.

You dont just "slap new bearing in it" crank has to be measured...cut or polished to spec...rod bearings measured..oil clearances...etc..

Just rolling in some new bearings is a badaid at best...and unless the bearing was toast anyways...wont make a dif.

I wise man would have run a compression test...before dissassmebly knowing what kind of shape the rings /pistons were in.

Basically...by the time you are rolling in new bearings...you are better off to leave it alone or go ahead and pull the block.

New bearings without pulling the block and doing it right is redneck...backwoods...bandaid..trash mechanics.

I dont condone it. Teach these people right.

 

I disagree but not worth it

engine has 178,000 I made my point enough said.

 

Im Just saying...dont replace bearings without doing it right. Rolling in a bearing with no measurements it hack work.

 

I guess it comes from being a red neck trailer trash back woods hick

The thing is it is a royal pain to put bearings in under the truck unless you have a sas and at least a 3 inch lift.

Having done it on a IFS 4Runner about 400 miles from home darn thing still runs about 50,000 miles or so.

 

Never implied that wyoming. Nothing but respect for you.

And you know 50k out of rolled in bearing is a miracle.

My point is if you have it all tore apart...and its not some side of the road rebuild...then its worth it to get the crank, block, and rods checked.

Im of the school of thought...teach them the right way..and if they want to take a shortcut then...then its on them.
We cant condone this as a regular practice.

 

First off.....I'm assuming 22R(E)....I think that's the only option in a 2WD truck, but I'm not sure. I don't know much about the 3VZE if that's the case, but everything should still hold true.




I very much disagree with HighLux.

Yes, pulling the motor, and taking measurements, and completely rebuilding would be best, and the "right" way, but that's A LOT more work and money. And certainly not the only way to do it well....we're not talking about a race car built to run on the ragged edge of what's possible with a given displacement and a restrictor (I've built a few of those too).....it's a 23 year old truck with more than a few miles on it.

You can plastigage (check tolerances) and replace all the bearings with the block and crank in the truck. Hell, you can pull the pistons, hone, and replace rings with the block and crank in the truck (I've done it, that truck had a lot more than 50k miles on the "rebuild".....2 owners ago.....it's still running strong).



Engine bearings are made of much softer metal than the surfaces they separate, with the idea that they wear out before the crank/rods/bearing caps. And by design, the crank makes contact with the bearings, so they have worn, and probably more than the crank.



Like I said, plastigage them all (crank and rod) first, and if it's within spec, leave it. If not, put standard replacement bearings in there, and re-test. If they come into spec as a result, you know it was the bearings that were worn, and you have tightened things up for the long haul. If the tolerances are still out of spec, you know the crank is in rough shape, you are mechanically no worse off than you were before, but now you know the situation, and know to be a bit more anal about your oil changes. And you didn't have to pull the short block, take it to a machine shop, and pay them a bunch of money to tell you your engine is junk (HA!!).

 

No problem. We all have the way we like to do things. We dont even know if he needs to replace the rod bearings. Does he have low oil pressure? a knock? we know none of this.

If its quiet and has oil pressure...then I say leave it alone.

Some guys are cool with bedlining thier whole truck...some have to have a perfect paint job. Some wheel the crap out of thier rigs and bash them of rocks and trees. Some restore them to showroom condition.

Thats whats is cool about yotatech....everyones ideas and opinions.

I know doesnt sound like it over the internet...but I know Im not always right...I can admit that.

Now for myself...(I did graduate from an auto program years ago, even though I dont do it for a living) I am of the type that would never install a new bearing in a motor in the car. The second I knew I smoked a bearing...motor is coming out. Crank is getting checked. Polished at least.

I guess with some things...Im a by the book guy. Inside a motor is a good place to be a by the book guy.

 

Yea I do all right with my sixth grade education at least I made it that far.

 

Oh come on...lol. I pay attention to everything you say man. I'd let you wrench on my trucks. Thats saying alot.

Nothing but respect.

 

Being that your that far into it, go all in. If you have the head off and the oil pan. Just yank it. I'm at that point with my 85. It loses about a quart every 100 miles out the tail pipe. Yeah I can do a timing, head, and valve seal job in a night, but I won't. Do it right once or do it wrong once and right the second time and every time after that.

Us poor guys can't afford to be cheap.