I'm in the process of exchanging a battery from my car to my truck. The terminals are reversed. In order to make the positive lead reach the positive terminal (same for negatives respectively) I need to get some more slack from the leads. I think the negative will reach easily, however I would have to undo some zip-tie like points of the positive lead and reroute them slightly. I don't plan on doing any modification other than undoing a few of these zip-tie like points. Since I already have a new (appropriately sized) battery for the car, It seems I could exchange this (still good, although reversed) one with the (almost) expired one in the truck. Is there anything I might not have considered that could "screw things up"?
Any thoughts appreciated.

 

The battery in the truck is still good but you're replacing it anyways?

I think what you're doing will be fine, but I'd just wait till the one you have starts dying, then replace it with a new one....you have to buy one for the car still....right?

 

One thing is watch out for is the positive post sometimes gets very close to the body when you switch things around from the factory setup. You don't want the battery to shift while you're driving and ground against the body or battery holddown bar or something. I've noticed Toyota likes to put the neg post close to the body.

 

Truck battery is shot. Car battery was originally too big for the car it was in. That one got replaced, and it's "too big" battery goes in the truck. The terminals will stay on the same sides of the truck, just need to move the leads forward towards the front bumper to reach the terminals by another 4".

 

As long as they will reach without putting a lot of stress on the cables and nothing else can come in contact with the leads, you should be fine. You also want to be able to secure the battery with the hold down as intended.

I've been guilty of using bungie cords myself but they can let go every now and again.

 

did it, the only stress I'm worried about is on the wire cluster that comes from the fuse box directly behind the battery. The bar that goes over the battery is tight, and I don't think the batt. will rock back and forth at all. (+) terminal is on the inside, no problem with that touching the frame, although I am a bit curious about the height of this battery, I think it maybe slightly taller than stock (cant tell if the red rubber housing over (+) terminal touches the hood when it's closed yet.)

Anyone know how tall a stock battery for a t100, bottom to top of terminal is?

I just remembered this, when I set the new battery on the tray where is sits when in position, the tray tipped towards the inside of the engine compartment until the full weight of the battery corrected itself to sit flat. Should this tray be welded to sit flat no matter where or how much weight(within reason) sits on the inside edge?

 

i had to do that with my battery in the 4runner i got a good battery for free and the terminal for the positive side was to short so i went to napa and got a short battery cable and bolted the old one to the new one and used some black tape and ive had no problems with it yes its not the best idea but it works .... should save up some cash and do the big 3 look pretty easy but i maybe wrong

 

we extened the battery leads on our Sonoma when we put a top post battery in after the side post wore out. it was a pain, but hasn't shown any problems since then.