I have searched here and many other Yota sites but have not yielded an answer. But I have seen many say even after the lift just get the truck aligned to factory specs.

I am told by most shops when I call no we dont do lifted vehicles due to lack of specs, now I do realize most shops arent willing to, but if the all I need is stock specs I am golden.

I am very close to pulling off my tundra springs if I cant get it aligned. I like them and how they handle so any help would be great.....except for I am pulling hard and burning up my tires, I want to go bigger but If I cant fix this I cant(throwing money down the drain)

 

You just haven't found the right alignment shop.
I've never had any problems with lifted vehicles, they just align em. If they claim to have a problem with lifts - wrong shop. Ask your local 4x4 shops who does alignments.
Call some truck repair places (trucks - as in semis.) The 3 top alignment shops in town are truck repair shops. All of them REALLY know their stuff, they can actaully solve problems rather than just set to what the book says and shrug.

 

i have gotten alot of the same thing from my local alignment shop. I have a lifetime alignment deal with firestone and the owner keeps telling me i need to have aftermarket specs for them to align it properly. Nontheless, I am lucky that he tries to align it as closely to stock specs as possible and it usually turns out fine. I took my truck to another guy that charges alot but has been in buisness here for over 20 years. he told me that the specs thing is bullcrap, and that the alignment on my truck seemed to be ok. I got my truck alligned quite some time ago.. probably 5-6k miles ago atleast and tires have not worn funny and i dont see any outrageous angles in my alignment from eyeballing it. I drive on the road alot too, i dont wheel my truck anymore unfortunately. keep at it and you will find the right alignment guy.

 

I do realize the right shop is needed, and I went into this at length in another thread about my woes in this department.

But I do have a connection that will try but says he could really only align one of three properties. I explained I think (maybe still have not gotten a straight answer on this) stock specs would be fine. He says then we can try it.

 

give this a read, it sounds pretty straight forward.

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=&fpart=2&vc=1

lee

 

hey thanks, I will check this against the so called experts lol, but seriously ty and I will check.

 

OH my goodness, what an involved process for something so simple as toe setting!

I grab two 4' levels (I realise not everyone has these laying around, but any 2 sturdy straight things will work fine.) I bungee them to the outside of the front tires, don't get the bungee really tight - just tight enough to hold the straight edges in place - level with the ground across the center of the tire (precisely level isn't neccessary, get close.) Grab a tape measure and measure behind the tires and infront of the tires. Since 99% of all modern vehicles have a toe setting very near zero (typically zero to 1/16" toed IN,) it's not hard to tell if your toe is knackered. Then loosen the tie rod clamps and grab a monkey wrench and set the toe, try to get it right to spec and keep the steering wheel centered while youre at it. It ain't rocket science and if you are off by a millimeter it's not going to hurt anything. Try not to be off by more than that though... Then drive the vehicle, come to a stop again and check it again just to be sure. If it's WAY off and won't stay where you set it, you may have some worn out components to replace.

Now, trying to set caster and camber at home is a losing battle for most of us. It's okay to eyeball them as best you can after you install a lift kit for example - just so you can drive it to the alignment shop.

 

I had mine done at the dealership. They had no problems at all. I do only have the BJ spacers & 1.5" extra in the back.