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3.0 starter problem.......

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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 06:28 AM
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From: Adirondaks Ny
3.0 starter problem.......

Yep got a 91 3.0 Sr5 and she suffers from all the usealy Yota ailments.

But before i go and get a new starter i want to make shure im doing the right thing.

For like 2 weeks now, i crank my key over and it would take click, then anywhere from 2 to 10 seconds for the starter to kick over, when it does its a strong start.

but now im not even getting a click, so in my mind its starter, but when i turn the key the heater turns on ( only on hi of course ), and the raido turns on. so my battery should be fine, right?

not only is this my off road rig, this is my to work rig, so i got to figure this out.

any help would be appriciated

Thank you
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 06:40 AM
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From: Bloodymore
Have you put a meter on the battery, it takes very little current to drive a radio and fan.

If its the starter, replacing the brushes should get you sorted out, do a search for a starter rebuild, or brush replacement IIRC.

Could also be corroded starter wire, the big one.

If you say it starts strong when you get it to kick over, that sounds likely to be a starter issue.

good luck
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 06:59 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply, im going to go to my work grab my tools and a bran new Die Hard battery, and start there, im going to trace all my lines and see if i have clean connections.

If i go threw all this and still have the problem its deffinatly eiather my Contacts, celunoid, or internal starter parts brushes ect. Right

I just know how much of a pain this starter is to get out and really dont want to rip it out if i dont have to.

any other idea feel free to post them thats where im at right now.

Thanks
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 07:06 AM
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I just did this on my '95 4 runner and it is a pain to do becuase you have to through the passenger side fenderwell to do it and it's very tight in there. Took me about 2 1/2 hours the first time, and I had to do it again. When replacing the contacts, I stupidly replaced the bolt that connect to the starter wire with the one in the kit and it was too short. The second time around, I did it in about 40 minutes because I knew exactly what I was doing.

If you search 3.0 starter contacts on here, you'll find some links that show you exactly how to do it, which were helpful for me.

After doing, I still replace the battery as I had charged it and jumped it so much that it wasn't holding a charge anymore.

Been starting up quicker and turning over faster than ever before.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 07:07 AM
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From: Bloodymore
^^^ yes, contact replacement, thanks, i said brushes and i think that is wrong.


Solenoid is part of the Starter assembly, and rarely is the issue.
How old is the battery? Your description doesn't sound like it's a battery issue.
The connections to the large starter wire could be clean, but the wire will wick corrosion into the jacket and cause enough resistance to not allow the starter to engage.

The starter is two bolts, one is easy and the other you get with a looooong extention from the front splash shield/guard (i actually leave mine off most the time) are once removed.

I'd put a meter on the battery first then start it and make sure she charges correctly. But a dead battery won't just 'wake up' and give you a strong start if it is near the end of its life.

Rebuild of the starter is less then a battery.

Last edited by RBX; Feb 6, 2013 at 07:09 AM.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #6  
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From: Adirondaks Ny
well,the battery is 5 years old ( end of its life ) and when i bought the truck the owner put 40 miles on it a yearyears for 3 , so the battery sucks, its a beat up Napa Legend, when i ran a test on it a while back it teseted bad a battery cooker, but since ive been running it everyday it seems to hold a charge, like i said im going to start there today, i dont have a garage to work in today and its cold as hell so today is going to be battery and wire routing, maybe tommarow ill get it in a buddys garage and figre it out,

and thanks for the links ive been useing the search function on this site ( very helpful ) and understand the process of these damn starters on the 3.slows.

Thanks agian guys,
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 07:24 AM
  #7  
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From: Bloodymore
rebuild and test starter

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 08:24 AM
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From: Adirondaks Ny
ok. sorry its been a while. but had to get some fundage. so as of right now i got a Repop starter in it, keeping my Orginal to rebuild like you all say to do.

But here is the thing. with a bran new battery and a new Repop starter.

both battery and starter tested good

it will start no problem when its cold. but if i go to get gas shut it down when its warm it wont restart for a while.

like it wont even click the starter over till i keep trying and let it sit for like 5 min.

now i dont mind parking on hills in these situations but i just want know whats going on.

Thanks for all th help guys!!!
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 08:51 AM
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From: Bloodymore
And did you check the big wire running to the starter for corrosion?
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 09:14 AM
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ohh yeah i did, it was only a little green. so i cleaned it up and loaded it with some dielectric grease.

looks like im going to make some new grounds.

i just wanted to make shure it wasent in my ignition. I dont know to much about that. but it dosent seem like it would be.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 09:33 AM
  #11  
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From: Bloodymore
Next time it won't start, pop the hood, and wiggle the big starter wire with your hands. And by wiggle i mean, give it a good tussle, it will disturb the corrosion enough to fire the starter when you jump in the cab. Now, if the cable is not corroded as you say, then this will, of course, make no difference. But, you are having the same symptoms my 92 had, and it was solely the power to the starter.

and you checked for codes?
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