OK here goes so i recentley purchased a 95 4runner 3.0 v6 and when i went to get it smogged it was at 32 btdc....way off. so it failed of coarse. i readjusted the ignition timing to 10 btdc and it ran like crap. it had idle issues sputtering with no consistency and if i floored the accel it wont go past 50.

so it passes smog after the adjustment and then i took it to the mech shop and had them readjust the timing belt..so 500 dollars later its running great.

next morning i drive it to work i was a happy camper had all the power back and drove great. i park turn it off and go to work. after work i come back start the engine and its sputtering again. i put it in drive and give it gas and when it hit 2000 rpm the engine cuts out ittermitting with no power and a slight knocking. it would go over 10 mph. so i had it towed home and thats where i am at... any suggestions would be great thanks

 

Take it back to the shop, you spent $500 dollars for a truck that runs better than how it did on the way in not worse.

 

First thang that comes to mind is fuel. Pump, or filter.

Unless you have got a distributor problem which usually throws a code of some sort.
But sounds like its starving for fuel, could be why the dingus before you had the timing so far out.

 

After doing that of coarse

 

thing is after i got it out of the shop for the belt adjustment it ran fine. i test drove it home it was fine. i drove it to work which is about 10 miles and it had all the power its suppose to with no issues. then i leave work and theres a major issue.

 

Try the shop again. If any luck you can get them to at least diagnos the problem for free, or if its something they did then fix it. But sounds fuel related to me.

 

go start it and see it after running for a few mins if the exhaust manifolds are red?sounds like u might of had a cat plug up. also i would put it at tdc 1 and see where the dist is pointing, could of jumped a couple teeth...

 

What belt adjustment? Was the cam timing off? Is your timing belt bad causing the cams to skip a couple teeth. If you have a knocking sound, and you were running way advanced, I would be concerned about internal damage to the pistons or valves. Start with a compression test and you'll know if its mechanical or electrical.

 

this morning was the first time i put fuel in it since buying it. i used mid grade fuel.
could that have to do anything with it?

 

i had the timing belt adjusted because it somehow skipped a tooth. the shop said compression was good they were concerned about the harmonic balancer but that checked out. after they adjusted the timing belt it ran really good felt great. then at 2000 rpm it have huge hesitation and jerking and a small ping. it just wouldnt go anything over 10 mph.

 

some mechanics will adjust timing by sound if they are lazy, and somtimes forget to take the jumper out of the DP and when it falls out timing changes. i have seen this before. its not probable but possible. check the timming with a light and make sure its good.

 

yotaman, they had to take the front of the engine off the inspect the belt they adjusted from there i believe

 

but he's saying it ran fine just before it sat. Doubt it jumped time again in the driveway, or the timing changed itself during that period right? Sound like an intermittent type of deal. Like fuel pump, filter, or injectors.

 

WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!!!
The timing belt skipped? and they didnt' replace it? More than likely its skipped again. And if thats the case, replace the timing belt, tensioners and idler pulleys. The crank and cam seals, the water pump.

 

Difinetly should have replaced the belt. A screw is no good once its striped.

 

just doesnt make sense. i wasnt sputtering as bad before the adjustment it just had no power. after the adjustment it ran great even when i parked it at work. it wasnt started again until i left 9 hours later and it was sputtering bad when started and idled it. when i put it in drive rpms dropped and gave it gas and it was jerking and cutting out ittermittingly and didnt want to go

 

when u shut it down the crank was still spinning as no power from u stopping the motor the cam might of stopped moving and allowing it to just a tooth or so, the only way to know if it did jump again and it only takes 30 mins is to pull the top cover for the timing belt and see if crank at 0 if the cams are at there marks. and they should of replaced the belt and if they did they might of not tightened up the bolt that holds the pully in place after installing it,

 

This makes no sense what so ever!! If the belt moved once . Why did it move??

Bad belt tensioner starting to wear out bad idler bearing ??

The labor involved to get to the timing belt . Why would you not change the belt??

Something is not right here!!

I would take it back and raise such a fuss !!

Besides there is no adjustment of the belt. The engine is adjusted

Unless you stated what was done incorrectly

 

Did your mechanic tell what the compression readings were?

 

ksti im from simi to weird.... okay so compression was fine everything with timing was fine. they said the connector to the denso MAF was malfunctioning. they said they did a bypass and it was running just fine. so now they are looking for a pony connector which is taking some time. they dont want to have to purchase a whole new harness since they are doing this fix for free... been at the shop for three days now... playing the waiting game...