Extreme noob here. I just purchased an '87 extracab 4x4 pickup, and It has a moderate lift on it, which I'd like to return to stock. I know almost nothing about suspension and body lifts, but I've done a lot of reading in the last couple days and solved about half my questions. I know that the 265/75-15 (appx. 31") tires on it should still fit fine without a lift. I managed to figure out that the front end has 1.5" ball joint spacers.
Here's the other half... I can't figure out what's holding the back up. There's no blocks or extended shackles, and it looks like the springs are stock. So what's holding the back end level with the front? Is it possible that the only thing elevating the back end is the aftermarket shocks? Here's a shot of the rear end so you know what I'm talking about. I'd appreciate any advice you folks could give me.

 

Is that an Add-A-Leaf in the rear pack? An Add-A-Leaf is an extra leaf spring you can add to the pack to add a bit more height and load capacity. It's a bit hard to tell for sure but the leaf above the overload leaf (thick leaf at the bottom of the pack) looks to be cleaner and newer. If so, you can remove it to put the leaf pack back to stock.

 

I'm not a suspension expert by a long shot, but shouldn't those spring leaves be touching each other? Unless there is a jack picking the rear of the frame up when the picture was taken? Is the truck all the way down on the ground in this picture?

 

Thanks, guys.

Nope, no jack holding it up. That's just how it sits. Here's a side view:



There's five leaves total. That second one from the bottom does look a little different. You think that might be an add-a-leaf?

Obligatory vanity shot:


It looks fine. I'm not religiously opposed to the lift on it, I just don't have a need for it and I've read that it can adversely effect the ball joints, cv joints, etc.

 

That's definitely an add-a-leaf. The gap between the overload and the rest of the pack is normal. The overload is only supposed to contact the rest of the pack in an overload situation where there's a lot of weight.

 

Hey awesome!

A hasty ruler measurement tells me the ball joint spacers are about 1-5/8", which doesn't sound like much, but the CV angle is enough to make me nervous. Still, it's starting to look like it would be an awful lot of work to take all of that out of there. I think I might be better off getting a $40 differential drop kit and putting that in. I'm not a hardcore wheeler or anything, just an enthusiastic fisherman who wants to make sure I can get home at the end of the day. Plus, Alaska. -40F is hard enough on CV joints as it is.

 

Diff drop spacers only drop the back of the diff. This tilts the front differential and causes the front driveshaft and pinion to be out of line. So now you're going to have vibration whenever the front driveline is spinning. Even in 2WD. I never noted any binding on my CV's with or without a diff drop kit when I had BJ spacers but I did notice that I had to replace my lower ball joints at least once a year. Just a heads up.

 

This just seems to get more and more complicated. Returning it to stock really does seem to be best, after all. Thanks for the heads up. I think my plan now is to just leave it as it is and hope for the best. If it turns out that I need new ball joints in a year or so, then I'll remove the extra hardware at that time.

Thanks again, AR.

 

The rear definitely has an add-a-leaf, and before you mess with the front get some baseline measurements.

The ball joint spacers provide 1.5" of lift before the torsion bars are adjusted, but many who install the ball joint spacers also adjust the torsion bars.

With your truck, the stock ride height should measure as follow (per the factory service manual) - 11.2" from the middle of the front lower control arm bolt (right behind the skid plate) to the ground when a 15" wheel is wearing 225/75 tires. This number changes to 12.5" when wearing 31" tires. This is at 26psi, and the tires must be new. This equals 13.5" when measuring from the top of a 15" wheel to the fender lip (measure straight up). This measurement also removes tire size from the equation. So your goal is 13.5" from top of a 15" rim to the fender lip above it.

If the ball joint spacers were installed and no one touch the torsion bars you are probably sitting at about 15" from top of 15" wheel to fender lip. If the number is something like 16.5-17" then you know the torsion bars were also tweaked, and they will have to be adjusted down. WHen you remove the ball joint spacers measure on a level surface. If you are in the 13.5" area you are good to go, if its higher they will need to be evenly turned down.

As far as the read add-a-leaves go, they are pretty harmless outside of making the rear end stiff, so if you don't want to mess with those then thats okay.

 

Also - forgot to mention, you can leave the ball joint spacers IN and evenly turn down the torsion bars to the stock range, it will ride like a damn dream.

 

Thanks '89.I took some measurements, and it's currently sitting at 15.5" from top of wheel to fender lip in front and 14.5" in the rear. Looks like the torsion bars are pretty close to the stock position. I've been doing some more reading and your last suggestion sounds like the nicest and most convenient solution. Of course, it's possible that those bolts haven't been touched in almost 30 years, which presents its own set of challenges. It's been pretty chilly up here lately, so as soon as I can borrow some garage time I'll give it a shot.