22r swap 7mgte
11-06-2016, 09:29 PM
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22r swap 7mgte
Hey guys I'm new to this site but I got an 85 Toyota pickup and I got a lead on a cheap supra with a 7mgte and I was wondering if anybody has done this swap and could you tell me what I need and since the truck is carberqted how to switch to efi
11-07-2016, 11:43 PM
#2
Maybe you want to read the swap section to get some ideas.
Since the engine is 6" longer that makes for some interesting fabrication in the engine mounts and cooling system.
Then your having a custom down pipe built the 7MGTE is on the right your exhaust is on the left
Then of course new clutch I don`t recall just what bell housing you need to use
I recall you need to swap oil pans but don`t remember just what one you need to use
The electrical is just the merging of the two vehicles wiring harnesses .
Since your using the 7MGTE electronics and ecu there is no switching to efi except to upgrade your fuel delivery system pump and filter and since this is a older truck more then likely new fuel lines as well .
I have all the goodies to do this swap went with the 3.4 instead
This is off the top of my head I most likely forgot things
Since the engine is 6" longer that makes for some interesting fabrication in the engine mounts and cooling system.
Then your having a custom down pipe built the 7MGTE is on the right your exhaust is on the left
Then of course new clutch I don`t recall just what bell housing you need to use
I recall you need to swap oil pans but don`t remember just what one you need to use
The electrical is just the merging of the two vehicles wiring harnesses .
Since your using the 7MGTE electronics and ecu there is no switching to efi except to upgrade your fuel delivery system pump and filter and since this is a older truck more then likely new fuel lines as well .
I have all the goodies to do this swap went with the 3.4 instead
This is off the top of my head I most likely forgot things
11-08-2016, 05:18 AM
#3
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The 7MGTE swap is a little more difficult than the 7MGE but not that hard. Just time consuming.
Like wyoming 9 said, search this site, there are many who have done this and can give good info. Also check out supracharged.com for info.
Like wyoming 9 said, search this site, there are many who have done this and can give good info. Also check out supracharged.com for info.
11-08-2016, 05:34 PM
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supracharged.com has all the info you need. They pretty much have a list of everything you need to do the swap. There is no body lift needed.
The key points are, running supra if you can get it. New headgasket and arp head studs torqued to 80ft/lbs, not the factory 56ft/lbs. 7mge bell housing and clutch, 5m engine mounts. You'll need to upgrade your rad and get an electric fan, ditch the waterpump mounted fan for more room between the engine and rad. I have 1/8" between my crank balancer and the electric fan, that's with moving my rad forward a bit so its a snug fit but it works. Don't forget to re-route your intercooler piping. I used a subaru top mount for a while before I built a front mount intercooler. since you have a solid axle truck you shouldn't have to change the oil pan, that would be something you would have to do with IFS. The exhaust down pipe fits nicely in the gap between the oil pan and bell housing. do yourself a favor and go 3" exhaust from the turbo back, including the elbow that bolts to the turbo. A fuel control system and wideband gauge is a nice touch to have but not necessary. get high flow fuel pump in the factory 4 runner tank, and get an inline fuel filter plumbed in. a pressure regulator with a gauge on it is nice to have. If I recall right, using the mounts and bell housing above, the engine is a direct drop in with no driveline changes. But supracharged.com will tell you for sure.
Keep in mind, with the added power comes way more driveline stress. I've killed 5th gear bearings twice in two separate w56 by not downshifting when climbing hills with a decent load in the truck. I change out my rear driveshaft carrier bearing every year as its gets loads of play in it, but that's also due to the lift. I would also consider adding an anti wrap spring in the rear to keep the pinion where its supposed to be.
The key points are, running supra if you can get it. New headgasket and arp head studs torqued to 80ft/lbs, not the factory 56ft/lbs. 7mge bell housing and clutch, 5m engine mounts. You'll need to upgrade your rad and get an electric fan, ditch the waterpump mounted fan for more room between the engine and rad. I have 1/8" between my crank balancer and the electric fan, that's with moving my rad forward a bit so its a snug fit but it works. Don't forget to re-route your intercooler piping. I used a subaru top mount for a while before I built a front mount intercooler. since you have a solid axle truck you shouldn't have to change the oil pan, that would be something you would have to do with IFS. The exhaust down pipe fits nicely in the gap between the oil pan and bell housing. do yourself a favor and go 3" exhaust from the turbo back, including the elbow that bolts to the turbo. A fuel control system and wideband gauge is a nice touch to have but not necessary. get high flow fuel pump in the factory 4 runner tank, and get an inline fuel filter plumbed in. a pressure regulator with a gauge on it is nice to have. If I recall right, using the mounts and bell housing above, the engine is a direct drop in with no driveline changes. But supracharged.com will tell you for sure.
Keep in mind, with the added power comes way more driveline stress. I've killed 5th gear bearings twice in two separate w56 by not downshifting when climbing hills with a decent load in the truck. I change out my rear driveshaft carrier bearing every year as its gets loads of play in it, but that's also due to the lift. I would also consider adding an anti wrap spring in the rear to keep the pinion where its supposed to be.
Last edited by nothingbetter; 11-08-2016 at 05:56 PM.
