rebuilt 22re won't run/start
Jan 27, 2012 | 07:21 PM
#61
No shame in letting a Guru take a hands on looksee, Mitch.... But I still hope you get it yourself... NOTHING WRONG with that, either, eh? lol.
Best wishes on the spaghetti soup!
Best wishes on the spaghetti soup!
Feb 2, 2012 | 09:00 PM
#62
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Joined: Jan 2012
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Still puzzled... The truck lives again. Initially trying to start I had my plug wires 1-3-4-2. How I thought they were supposed to be. But after cranking for days and nothing, we tried 1-4-3-2 and it fired right up. BUT, it turns out, the guy I took it to figured it out in about 15 minutes, switched them back around, and it purrrs so nice. So why wouldn't it start up like that the first few hundred times?
Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm sure if anything ever goes wrong in the future I'm going to be able to pinpoint it right away after all the reading I've done on this engine.
Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm sure if anything ever goes wrong in the future I'm going to be able to pinpoint it right away after all the reading I've done on this engine.
Feb 21, 2012 | 06:23 PM
#63
I have to say, firstly, SORRY! lol.... I must have mixed up the videos when posting them... I knew I was posting some Vacuum video for ya, but I thought the second one to 'bjork' was including this stuff, which I'm about to post. I watched both of them that I posted, remembered your comments, thereafter.... and DANGIT if I didn't post this one I'm about to after the "Bjork" one! grrrr! lol. Could have saved you a bit of tailchasing, ...sorry man, lol. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
See, told you this has come up before, ways back! hahaha.
See, told you this has come up before, ways back! hahaha.
Feb 21, 2012 | 08:39 PM
#64
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Joined: Jan 2012
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Ha yup that would have helped a while ago. I didn't know that thing on the passenger side was the injector resistor though, learned something there. Now to figure out why it won't start after the compression test....
Feb 21, 2012 | 11:14 PM
#65
Usual suspect is "I unplugged the coil wire for the compression test.... forgot it!" lol. I know, that's not likely, but why not throw it out there, right? lol.
Remember, something might have just coincidentally/finally given up the ghost, too, ya know? (Meaning, ECU, etc., etc., etc....... You get the picture).
Best wishes, man!
Remember, something might have just coincidentally/finally given up the ghost, too, ya know? (Meaning, ECU, etc., etc., etc....... You get the picture).
Best wishes, man!
Jun 13, 2012 | 10:42 PM
#66
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unknown sensor?
In your picture there is a sensor that has a red cap in the picture located back right of the valve cover and has 2 small hoses that connect into it. what is that sensor called? i cant pass smog i was told it was becuase i snapped the 2 small hoses off while changing my valve cover gasket.
Jun 13, 2012 | 10:47 PM
#67
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Joined: Apr 2010
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valve cover sensor
What is the sensor in the picture that has a red cap and is located at the back right of the valve cover? It has 2 small hoses that connect and i broke the 2 h0ses off during a valve cover gasket repair. My car wont pass smog and i have a feeling that is why but cant find the name of the piece.
Jun 13, 2012 | 10:55 PM
#68
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OK 22re guru's, I need your help.
I've been creeping here for a while but this is my first post. I have a '88 4x4 truck with 240xxx miles I bought over the summer. Ran fine for a while, had trouble on cold starts and would stall out if I drove through water too fast, and would get around 17 mpg. I ended up getting a bad knock so parked it until I got it fixed(happened about september). Before I took anything out, I did a compression test (cold) and was getting super low numbers (30-70) with a wide range between each cylinder. After adding oil though the spark plug holes, highest compression was around 120. Deciding to pull the engine after that, I found the source of the knock was a nut that fell off a rod bearing cap destroying the rod. I ended up getting the block bored 1mm over, replaced pistons, one new rod, the others refurbished, replaced the crank and had it polished, new main and rod bearings. I'm confident the internals and timing are put together correctly to the the FSM specs.
The engine is put back in and everything hooked back up, but the engine still won't run and I have no idea why. Closest I've got was holding the AFM open and holding the gas pedal to the floor, but was super rough like it wasn't firing right or missing then died when I let off the gas. I've had it backfire and cough while playing with the timing. I don't know what to do and need to get it running agin before school starts.
So far, I've tested/changed:
-the fuel filter, I know it's getting pressure so not the fuel pump
-measured the resistance across the cold start injector, tested good
-tested the AFM the same way (to the FSM)
-put in brand new spark plugs and ignition wires
-checked all the fuses
-won't start with starting fluid
-pulled out all the spark plugs and grounded them to the block, they all fire right
-put a squirt of oil in each cylinder and tried again
-made sure the timing mark on at TDC matched the distributor and the camshaft
-all the sensors but one black one near the throttle body are plugged in, I can't find it's home
-checked the PCV, it's clean and works like it's supposed to
-all the vacuum hoses were double checked
-a full tank of new gas was put in in september
-i can smell gas on the spark plugs and out the exhaust
-the ground on the motor mount is on the frame side
Other ideas I have are
-checking the valve lashing, but never took the rocker assembly apart so I don't know why it would be off
-I read the 60 amp fuse could be bad on the bottom but I wasn't able to pull it out and it looks fine from on top
-I haven't checked the compression since the rebuild
-I read there should be a ground on the intake manifold, but have one connected to the valve cover, does this need to be moved?
-there's a hose near the charcoal canister coming from the firewall about 1/2" OD that I can't figure out where it goes
-when we were adjusting the timing trying to get it to start sometimes we would pull the distributor cap off and the rotor would be 180* opposite of where it was supposed to be, is that normal or is the rotor jumping around? Do I not understand something?
I'll add anything I've missed, or please correct me if I missed something. I'm really hoping to get my truck running again soon. I learned a lot from reading old posts from you guys.
I've been creeping here for a while but this is my first post. I have a '88 4x4 truck with 240xxx miles I bought over the summer. Ran fine for a while, had trouble on cold starts and would stall out if I drove through water too fast, and would get around 17 mpg. I ended up getting a bad knock so parked it until I got it fixed(happened about september). Before I took anything out, I did a compression test (cold) and was getting super low numbers (30-70) with a wide range between each cylinder. After adding oil though the spark plug holes, highest compression was around 120. Deciding to pull the engine after that, I found the source of the knock was a nut that fell off a rod bearing cap destroying the rod. I ended up getting the block bored 1mm over, replaced pistons, one new rod, the others refurbished, replaced the crank and had it polished, new main and rod bearings. I'm confident the internals and timing are put together correctly to the the FSM specs.
The engine is put back in and everything hooked back up, but the engine still won't run and I have no idea why. Closest I've got was holding the AFM open and holding the gas pedal to the floor, but was super rough like it wasn't firing right or missing then died when I let off the gas. I've had it backfire and cough while playing with the timing. I don't know what to do and need to get it running agin before school starts.
So far, I've tested/changed:
-the fuel filter, I know it's getting pressure so not the fuel pump
-measured the resistance across the cold start injector, tested good
-tested the AFM the same way (to the FSM)
-put in brand new spark plugs and ignition wires
-checked all the fuses
-won't start with starting fluid
-pulled out all the spark plugs and grounded them to the block, they all fire right
-put a squirt of oil in each cylinder and tried again
-made sure the timing mark on at TDC matched the distributor and the camshaft
-all the sensors but one black one near the throttle body are plugged in, I can't find it's home
-checked the PCV, it's clean and works like it's supposed to
-all the vacuum hoses were double checked
-a full tank of new gas was put in in september
-i can smell gas on the spark plugs and out the exhaust
-the ground on the motor mount is on the frame side
Other ideas I have are
-checking the valve lashing, but never took the rocker assembly apart so I don't know why it would be off
-I read the 60 amp fuse could be bad on the bottom but I wasn't able to pull it out and it looks fine from on top
-I haven't checked the compression since the rebuild
-I read there should be a ground on the intake manifold, but have one connected to the valve cover, does this need to be moved?
-there's a hose near the charcoal canister coming from the firewall about 1/2" OD that I can't figure out where it goes
-when we were adjusting the timing trying to get it to start sometimes we would pull the distributor cap off and the rotor would be 180* opposite of where it was supposed to be, is that normal or is the rotor jumping around? Do I not understand something?
I'll add anything I've missed, or please correct me if I missed something. I'm really hoping to get my truck running again soon. I learned a lot from reading old posts from you guys.
Jun 13, 2012 | 11:21 PM
#69
What year, 4Runjourney?
Not sure on a 'red' sensor... As far as ON the Valve cover, in the rear, my 87 22RE has a FPR-VSV(Fuel Pressure Regulator-Vacuum Switching Valve).... I believe there are times it will stop vacuum for hot soak reasons. IF IT IS the Fuel Pressure VSV, you can simply plug the VSV directly into the plenum on an available port and ditch the VSV.... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ine_Pix/8.html ......See, in that pic it's Green and blue, like mine, as his is 85 22RE.... Maybe yours is a later model and is different?
OR, maybe you have one with an EGR-VSV..... IF that's the case, you most DEFINITELY will not pass smog before replacing that. I got my AC VSV at a Pick-your-Part in Wilmington, CA, along with 20 other sensors and relays... Just started grabbing them every time i saw them. BUT, there is a guy on here, you might find, ID name is JBM715... Look at his 'threads' he's started, and he sells used parts. HE MIGHT have em. He also has an Ebay store.... JBW? His name is Jimmy Bowers... and he's posted his info on here, pretty sure on his 'Have many toyota parts for sale'.... I've purchased from him a few times, through eBay... Just don't have the time right now to search.
I'll stop for now, as this thread is someone elses, ya know? hahaha... But wanted to try and help, as I've JUST went through a smog dilemma last month.
So, 2 questions;
what year?
got pics?
Not sure on a 'red' sensor... As far as ON the Valve cover, in the rear, my 87 22RE has a FPR-VSV(Fuel Pressure Regulator-Vacuum Switching Valve).... I believe there are times it will stop vacuum for hot soak reasons. IF IT IS the Fuel Pressure VSV, you can simply plug the VSV directly into the plenum on an available port and ditch the VSV.... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ine_Pix/8.html ......See, in that pic it's Green and blue, like mine, as his is 85 22RE.... Maybe yours is a later model and is different?
OR, maybe you have one with an EGR-VSV..... IF that's the case, you most DEFINITELY will not pass smog before replacing that. I got my AC VSV at a Pick-your-Part in Wilmington, CA, along with 20 other sensors and relays... Just started grabbing them every time i saw them. BUT, there is a guy on here, you might find, ID name is JBM715... Look at his 'threads' he's started, and he sells used parts. HE MIGHT have em. He also has an Ebay store.... JBW? His name is Jimmy Bowers... and he's posted his info on here, pretty sure on his 'Have many toyota parts for sale'.... I've purchased from him a few times, through eBay... Just don't have the time right now to search.
I'll stop for now, as this thread is someone elses, ya know? hahaha... But wanted to try and help, as I've JUST went through a smog dilemma last month.
So, 2 questions;
what year?
got pics?
Jun 13, 2012 | 11:24 PM
#70
If you're talking about THAT, THE RED PLUGGED SENSOR/VALVE in the pic above... I'm not sure what that is.. But it IS a "POST 87" thing, cuz I don't have it... His is 88, so just have to look in the haynes or FSM and it'll tell ya what it's purpose is. I'm guessing it's still a FPR VSV,.........but can't be sure. COULD be the EGR VSV, I just don't know.
ANYONE????????
ANYONE????????
Jun 15, 2012 | 12:05 AM
#71
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6
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This is the unplugged plug (the green one right by the valve cover bolt). I've tried switching it with a black one that has the same shape with no luck. I'm thinking now there was residual carbon on the heads that's preventing the valves from closing all the way, or hot spots on the pistons are causing predetonation. I'm going to try adding octane booster to the gas today and checking the knock sensor connections. Hopefully it changes something.
Jun 20, 2012 | 05:29 AM
#72
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 50
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That's a vacuum switching valve. There's 3 of them, one controls the AC, and I'm pretty sure the other two are emissions related. I had one break on me and could only find a replacement at the pick n pull. They're easy to find, just make sure you bring a picture of what your plug looks like. The same ones are on the v6 and other toyotas of similar years.
If the blue one (I'm pretty sure that's the ac one) is still intact you could try switching the two to try and pass emissions or just bypass it.
If the blue one (I'm pretty sure that's the ac one) is still intact you could try switching the two to try and pass emissions or just bypass it.
Last edited by stickmanmitch; Jun 20, 2012 at 05:32 AM.
Feb 23, 2026 | 01:00 AM
#73
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Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 1
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Firing order
To sum up everything I've done and what the problem is...
88 22re 4x4. Rebuilt but my truck still isn't running right. The main problem is a popping noise coming from the exhaust (aftermarket) and gutless power at low rpms. Once it gets above 2500-3000 it'll smooth out and rev like it's supposed to. BUT, this only happens under load. In low gearing (4low) I don't have this problem on flat ground, or revving in neutral. I've been consistently getting a code 11, and occasionally a code 5. It does this even cold, and takes a while to start up.
So far, I've tested/changed:
-the fuel filter, I know it's getting pressure so not the fuel pump, and bled the fuel rail to check pressure at the cold start injecor
-measured the resistance across the cold start injector, tested good
-tested the AFM the same way (to the FSM)
-put in brand new spark plugs and ignition wires
-switched the coilpack and distributor
-checked all the fuses
-checked for vacuum leaks and replaced all the hoses
-pulled out all the spark plugs and grounded them to the block, they all fire right (firing order 1-4-3-2)
-Tried the timing at 5*, 8* and 11*, no change or worse, also have tried retarding which made the problem way worse. I'm 100% the timing chain was correct, checked it again and it didn't skip teeth
-the cold start time switch and the coolant temp sensor are plugged in and checked but one black one near the throttle body are plugged in, I can't find it's home
-checked the PCV, it's clean and works like it's supposed to
-a full tank of new gas was put in in september but siphoned it all out and put in fresh 93 octane. Also added a small amount of 91% isopropyl alcohol to help burn off any residual water, the but the old gas still didn't cause problems in another vehicle
-did a voltage feedback check and getting 0 volts. Checked o2 sensor at diagnostic port the same way and also getting 0.
-double checked all the grounds
-bypassed the EGR system, no help so switched it back
-triple checked and adjusted the TPS, checked the AFM, cold start switch, coolant temp sensors twice
-checked valve lash twice, once was .008 and .012, then to .007 and .009 as suggested by a machinist.
-compression numbers average 120 on all cylinders and are within 10 psi
-still does it with the cold start injector disconnected (haven't tried removing it completely)
-got a brand new battery
-re adjusted the idle air screw
-checked for air leaks around the air intake system
-checked circuit opening relay
and the most recent changes I've done. I'm going to start testing everything at the ECU and testing the ECU itself.
test 2: Re adjusted valves to .009 exhaust and .007 intake cold as suggested to someone else with a similar problem. Tried old spark plugs, replaced vsv, drained old gas and put in 2 new gallons of 93 octane with small amount of 91% isopropol alcohol. Advanced timing to around *10 degrees. Disconnected TPS.
Results:Was harder to start, could be because of old spark plugs. Switched them back out and was still hard to start but finally got running. Still pops, feels sluggish on acceleration even when not popping. Advancing the timing made the problem worse. Could be that the old gas is still in the lines. No change with the TPS disconnected. Have codes 5,7, and 11, could be the TPS. Tried voltage feedback and was getting 1-.9 on the 200m setting. EGR is still bypassed, but pops cold so unlikely the problem. When cyl 1 is at it's peak the silver dot is at 11:55, confirming the timing chain is on correctly. Unsure if this is related, but my ecu is from a 22R. Valve cover gasket wasn't properly seated
test 2.1: Bled the cold start injector line, had pressure and possibly air in line.
results: Seems to drive better. Popping also seems to get worse as the engine gets warmer. Will try bleeding again.
test 2.2 Bled again, reseated valve cover gasket. Suburban still drives fine on old toyota gas blended with one or two gallons of fresh gas, only noticeable problem is a few sporadic idle drops. Code 11 is TPS open circuit, check resistances of TPS at ECU. Swap out AFM's with tanners, check resistances at ECU. Check ECU.
88 22re 4x4. Rebuilt but my truck still isn't running right. The main problem is a popping noise coming from the exhaust (aftermarket) and gutless power at low rpms. Once it gets above 2500-3000 it'll smooth out and rev like it's supposed to. BUT, this only happens under load. In low gearing (4low) I don't have this problem on flat ground, or revving in neutral. I've been consistently getting a code 11, and occasionally a code 5. It does this even cold, and takes a while to start up.
So far, I've tested/changed:
-the fuel filter, I know it's getting pressure so not the fuel pump, and bled the fuel rail to check pressure at the cold start injecor
-measured the resistance across the cold start injector, tested good
-tested the AFM the same way (to the FSM)
-put in brand new spark plugs and ignition wires
-switched the coilpack and distributor
-checked all the fuses
-checked for vacuum leaks and replaced all the hoses
-pulled out all the spark plugs and grounded them to the block, they all fire right (firing order 1-4-3-2)
-Tried the timing at 5*, 8* and 11*, no change or worse, also have tried retarding which made the problem way worse. I'm 100% the timing chain was correct, checked it again and it didn't skip teeth
-the cold start time switch and the coolant temp sensor are plugged in and checked but one black one near the throttle body are plugged in, I can't find it's home
-checked the PCV, it's clean and works like it's supposed to
-a full tank of new gas was put in in september but siphoned it all out and put in fresh 93 octane. Also added a small amount of 91% isopropyl alcohol to help burn off any residual water, the but the old gas still didn't cause problems in another vehicle
-did a voltage feedback check and getting 0 volts. Checked o2 sensor at diagnostic port the same way and also getting 0.
-double checked all the grounds
-bypassed the EGR system, no help so switched it back
-triple checked and adjusted the TPS, checked the AFM, cold start switch, coolant temp sensors twice
-checked valve lash twice, once was .008 and .012, then to .007 and .009 as suggested by a machinist.
-compression numbers average 120 on all cylinders and are within 10 psi
-still does it with the cold start injector disconnected (haven't tried removing it completely)
-got a brand new battery
-re adjusted the idle air screw
-checked for air leaks around the air intake system
-checked circuit opening relay
and the most recent changes I've done. I'm going to start testing everything at the ECU and testing the ECU itself.
test 2: Re adjusted valves to .009 exhaust and .007 intake cold as suggested to someone else with a similar problem. Tried old spark plugs, replaced vsv, drained old gas and put in 2 new gallons of 93 octane with small amount of 91% isopropol alcohol. Advanced timing to around *10 degrees. Disconnected TPS.
Results:Was harder to start, could be because of old spark plugs. Switched them back out and was still hard to start but finally got running. Still pops, feels sluggish on acceleration even when not popping. Advancing the timing made the problem worse. Could be that the old gas is still in the lines. No change with the TPS disconnected. Have codes 5,7, and 11, could be the TPS. Tried voltage feedback and was getting 1-.9 on the 200m setting. EGR is still bypassed, but pops cold so unlikely the problem. When cyl 1 is at it's peak the silver dot is at 11:55, confirming the timing chain is on correctly. Unsure if this is related, but my ecu is from a 22R. Valve cover gasket wasn't properly seated
test 2.1: Bled the cold start injector line, had pressure and possibly air in line.
results: Seems to drive better. Popping also seems to get worse as the engine gets warmer. Will try bleeding again.
test 2.2 Bled again, reseated valve cover gasket. Suburban still drives fine on old toyota gas blended with one or two gallons of fresh gas, only noticeable problem is a few sporadic idle drops. Code 11 is TPS open circuit, check resistances of TPS at ECU. Swap out AFM's with tanners, check resistances at ECU. Check ECU.
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