blackyota4x4

Stupid but worth checking. Check your ignition wires and make sure they are seated and routed to the right pin on the distributor they should all be labeled. Also make sure the harness that travels around the back of the firewall is not in contact with any exhaust piping like the recirculation tube from the header back to the intake. You will smell a burning smell maybe and cause some crazy missfiring issues. Pull the plugs and check the gaps. If you dropped them throw em away.

Check the nick on the crank pulley and align it with the timing mark on the oil pump at 0. The dimple on the cam sprocket should be at just before noon if i remember correctly. The distributor cap should be set to fire on #1

Have you done a compression test? I could see if the headgasket is not right and coolant is leaking into the chamber there may be issues. Missing coolant? What's the oil look like? Look at the overflow bottle and see if its full.

stickmanmitch

List of things I'm about to go check... Hopefully something helps.


check circuit opening relay
check coolant temp sensor circuit cold
test intake air temp circuit and sensor
test afm again
check cold start system again cold
check efi fuse again
check for shorted wires anywhere
check fuel pressure regulator and vac attachments
directly connect the vac hose on the fpr to the intake
pinch off fuel return line and see if it makes a difference
check egr valve operation, test bypassed
recheck for vacuum leaks/get new vac hoses
test fuel pump voltage
check o2 sensor
test ecm

stickmanmitch

I'm completely stumped at this point.

I tested with the EGR bypassed, FPR open to atmosphere, Vac hoses replaced, COR tested, and the AFM retested. I cleaned the contacts for the cold start time switch and the coolant temp sensor and plugged them back in.
Once running I tested the Air/fuel ratio voltage feedback(at 2400 rpm)

Results: Still pops. Pulled a Code 11 again. Hooked FPR regulator back up, but that didn't help. I checked the voltage feedback for air/fuel and o2 sensor, got 0 volts both times. Can smell gas, so was definitely running rich. I thought I was getting a lean misfire. Still having problems starting cold though, so I don't get it. I guess I'll go though the O2 sensor testing procedure and try getting a new TPS.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

You should DEFINITELY notice a change with the FPR taken out of the picture. The FPR LOWERS pressure via a pulsating diaphragm inside(you can hear it), ..... have you tried pulling the line TO the FPR and seeing if you have any fuel inside of it?(The line from the VSV to the FPR). (Just to clarify, ... I DON'T think some/most of your issues sound like FPR issues....But it WOULD account for ''More fuel pressure that isn't needed/fuel being dragged back up the line to the VSV and then back into the plenum..... If that's even possible).

Wow,.... crazy, isn't it? My issue ended up being mechanical, after EVERYTHING mechanical seemingly checked out ok! lol. It was, for the most part, originally, "MY CAM"...... It was sooooooo badly reground that I'm LUCKY it didn't take out my Rocker pads..... SERIOUSLY! After replacing, I still had a BAD miss/ ticking issues(they showed up really badly at specific RPM's, the ticks).

In the interim, I tested/re-tested/verfied/ruled out/ just about EVERY component and wire/connector within that motor. The bottom line, in the end, ..... ALL THE SAME sensors/relays, etc., went back into this newly rebuilt motor with the same head/cam(all new valves/springs/guides/seals/ and block inners other than the pistons)..... The miss is gone and it's PURRING. OK, I have a tiny miss, but I'm pretty sure that's related to the Dizzy just being 264K Miles Old! lol. It can wait, and it's CLEARLY running better.

I even had idle jumping going on, sudden idle drop as well, etc., ......... ALL MECHANICAL, but appearing to be, at the time, 'IT'S GOT TO BE THIS OR THAT SENSOR'! Ya know? I'm NOT saying it is or isn't similar in your case.... I can't know that. I'm only saying that, well, once you test every sensor in this thing 3 times, verify the ECU is good, swap out AFM's, TPS's, ECU's, replace all the sensors, etc., etc., ........ it might be time to tear it down again and BE CERTAIN that the chain install went correctly(more importantly, that it didn't jump a tooth while you were pushing in the tensioner, etc., etc., etc., ya know?)

DEFINITELY check all those things you're trying.... can't hurt, and you'll learn enough to verify/rule out ANYTHING, dang near, while WHEREVER you are, ya know? But keep an open mind to the possibility that SOMETHING mechanical is going on here?

BTW, GREAT PERSEVERANCE, THUS FAR, MAN! I admire your stick-to it-ness!

stickmanmitch

So went to the pick n pull today hoping to pick up a TPS, but they had about 3 total toyotas with (missing) 22re's and two other v6 4runners. I guess that's a testament to their longevity, huh? The import suv section was full of Mitsubishi's, kias and isuzu's though.

So I ended up with 3 VSV's, I have a broken one for the a/c idle advance, (maybe that's what the code 11 is about?) but I bypassed it and plugged the hoses. And then some relatively new blistiens, the 4WD mudflaps and a skidplate for under 50 bucks. Pick n pull is almost better than harbor freight, except you can't have them order a part for you.

I'm going to look for a TPS online or at the dealer... hopefully that'll help me out.

stickmanmitch

To sum up everything I've done and what the problem is...

88 22re 4x4. Rebuilt but my truck still isn't running right. The main problem is a popping noise coming from the exhaust (aftermarket) and gutless power at low rpms. Once it gets above 2500-3000 it'll smooth out and rev like it's supposed to. BUT, this only happens under load. In low gearing (4low) I don't have this problem on flat ground, or revving in neutral. I've been consistently getting a code 11, and occasionally a code 5. It does this even cold, and takes a while to start up.


So far, I've tested/changed:

-the fuel filter, I know it's getting pressure so not the fuel pump, and bled the fuel rail to check pressure at the cold start injecor
-measured the resistance across the cold start injector, tested good
-tested the AFM the same way (to the FSM)
-put in brand new spark plugs and ignition wires
-switched the coilpack and distributor
-checked all the fuses
-checked for vacuum leaks and replaced all the hoses
-pulled out all the spark plugs and grounded them to the block, they all fire right (firing order 1-4-3-2)
-Tried the timing at 5*, 8* and 11*, no change or worse, also have tried retarding which made the problem way worse. I'm 100% the timing chain was correct, checked it again and it didn't skip teeth
-the cold start time switch and the coolant temp sensor are plugged in and checked but one black one near the throttle body are plugged in, I can't find it's home
-checked the PCV, it's clean and works like it's supposed to
-a full tank of new gas was put in in september but siphoned it all out and put in fresh 93 octane. Also added a small amount of 91% isopropyl alcohol to help burn off any residual water, the but the old gas still didn't cause problems in another vehicle
-did a voltage feedback check and getting 0 volts. Checked o2 sensor at diagnostic port the same way and also getting 0.
-double checked all the grounds
-bypassed the EGR system, no help so switched it back
-triple checked and adjusted the TPS, checked the AFM, cold start switch, coolant temp sensors twice
-checked valve lash twice, once was .008 and .012, then to .007 and .009 as suggested by a machinist.
-compression numbers average 120 on all cylinders and are within 10 psi
-still does it with the cold start injector disconnected (haven't tried removing it completely)
-got a brand new battery
-re adjusted the idle air screw
-checked for air leaks around the air intake system
-checked circuit opening relay

and the most recent changes I've done. I'm going to start testing everything at the ECU and testing the ECU itself.

test 2: Re adjusted valves to .009 exhaust and .007 intake cold as suggested to someone else with a similar problem. Tried old spark plugs, replaced vsv, drained old gas and put in 2 new gallons of 93 octane with small amount of 91% isopropol alcohol. Advanced timing to around *10 degrees. Disconnected TPS.

Results:Was harder to start, could be because of old spark plugs. Switched them back out and was still hard to start but finally got running. Still pops, feels sluggish on acceleration even when not popping. Advancing the timing made the problem worse. Could be that the old gas is still in the lines. No change with the TPS disconnected. Have codes 5,7, and 11, could be the TPS. Tried voltage feedback and was getting 1-.9 on the 200m setting. EGR is still bypassed, but pops cold so unlikely the problem. When cyl 1 is at it's peak the silver dot is at 11:55, confirming the timing chain is on correctly. Unsure if this is related, but my ecu is from a 22R. Valve cover gasket wasn't properly seated

test 2.1: Bled the cold start injector line, had pressure and possibly air in line.

results: Seems to drive better. Popping also seems to get worse as the engine gets warmer. Will try bleeding again.

test 2.2 Bled again, reseated valve cover gasket. Suburban still drives fine on old toyota gas blended with one or two gallons of fresh gas, only noticeable problem is a few sporadic idle drops. Code 11 is TPS open circuit, check resistances of TPS at ECU. Swap out AFM's with tanners, check resistances at ECU. Check ECU.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, great write up, Mitch! I'm really sorry you're still struggling with this thing! DON'T GIVE UP, .... YOU WILL find it(even if someone else helps out/hands on)....

I gotta tell ya......this REALLY sounds like 2 things I dealt with. Yes, I'm gonna bring it up, AGAIN, lol.... TPS. The other was a BAD coolant bubble in the system that made it APPEAR that my TPS or AFM or something like that was going haywire. I would go to take off from a stop, and it would BOG, badly, until around 2800RPM..... then BAT OUT OF HELL! Then 2nd gear, same thing for a shorter duration(up to 2300rpm).... Then, smooth out and get full power and then 3rd was fine. It DID pop a few times, as well(it was backfire, in the AFM area.... Sounded like a potato launcher a couple times).

When I replaced the TPS, I TRIED to set it to specs, 3 times, but I never had noticed the latter info on there at 4crawler.com..... "If you get the first setting right, the rest should be pretty much right on".......... Or was it the "Last"... Pretty sure first, right? lol... I'll look it up again.

Question;

Did you EVER soak that throttle body good with cleaners/solvents, etc., while the TPS was still attached? I'm pretty sure this is what blew out my original TPS. I replaced mine with a dealer/new TPS, and the 'one time' I mentioned, it solved the issue at hand.

Question;

Did you burp her REALLY well? I mean on a REALLY steep hill, or jacked up really well in the front..... squeezing the proper tubes and such?

Question;

When you experience this 'bogging'/'popping'.......... Does it suddenly clear up and run like a raped ape? Mine, as well, idled and rev'd just fine when not under load.

I hope you find it with either of those 2... this type of drama can be REALLY depressing, I KNOW, trust me! hahaha.

However, if you don't, I would definitely try testing at the ECU, etc., etc., as you've mentioned.... MANY issues that people find, ESPECIALLY with bad wiring, etc., wind up being a bad injector wire at the "Y" of one of the pairs, etc., ... and the only way to find em, repair them, is to open the harness, ya know? NOT EVEN saying that's likely the issue, promise, lol... Just throwing out there what's happened to many on here and other sites.

sebastianholmes

maybe your fuel injectors are clogged or something causing it not to get enough fuel when its starts to rev?

cman1

iTrader: (1)

MANY issues that people find, ESPECIALLY with bad wiring, etc., wind up being a bad injector wire at the "Y" of one of the pairs, etc., ... and the only way to find em, repair them, is to open the harness, ya know? NOT EVEN saying that's likely the issue, promise, lol... Just throwing out there what's happened to many on here and other sites.
including me,i agree chef...that would be my next move.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

When my injector stuck shut; It was very clearly running on 3 cylinders at that point. No matter the RPM, etc., it was not giving up the 'GO-GO'! lol. (Could be different with a clogged one.... One that is still allowing some fuel through, just not enough???? Not sure, ... as he said, "Parked, in neutral, it revs up fine"-or something like that, right Mitch? I know 'under load' is a different situation.....Hmmm)

Yep, ... but AFTER verifying everything else. I just feel that it sounds SO MUCH like SO MANY people on here who dealt with CTS and TPS issues. Maybe even a clogged fuel line(which he, I BELIEVE, ruled out, right Mitch?).

Best wishes, Mitch..... don't give up, bud! Knock that gremlin in the mug!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

When my injector stuck shut; It was very clearly running on 3 cylinders at that point. No matter the RPM, etc., it was not giving up the 'GO-GO'! lol.

Yep, ... but AFTER verifying everything else. I just feel that it sounds SO MUCH like SO MANY people on here who dealt with CTS and TPS issues. Maybe even a clogged fuel line(which he, I BELIEVE, ruled out, right Mitch?). sOOOOOOOO, I would just rule out, totally, an ECU/Sensor/Relay issue.

Best wishes, Mitch..... don't give up, bud! Knock that gremlin in the mug!

stickmanmitch

I put in a new TPS this morning and still getting a code 11. Before I installed it I checked the voltages at the ECU and got .02-4.5 testing VTA-E2. My old one installed was at .55- 3.49. At WOT it's supposed to be between 4-5 volts, so I thought maybe that small difference was enough. After spending two hours trying to get that damn bottom screw out, replacing it did nothing. it just makes a different popping sound (more muffled but less random). I adjusted the new one at the ECU (more accurate) the voltage readings are .3-4.3. I didn't have all the screws holding the ECU on in, (none in the firewall) so maybe it wasn't grounded right. I ran out of time to try with it screwed in.

The new one won't let me set the base timing though. I jump the terminals and get no timing or idle change, and max retarding was only getting me to 14*. I tried moving the distributor one tooth but that was clearly not the problem bc it wouldn't start after that. I'm going to take the upper manifold back off later and check all the wiring.

I ruled out bad fuel lines, I replaced the fuel, fuel filter, bled the fuel rail, and added seafoam. And it smells like it's running rich, and VF is telling me it's running rich.

Edit: and I also unscrewed the covers on the ECU. I only did a visual inspection didn't electrically test anything, but there's no visible corrosion or burnt contacts on anything. I'm ruling that out for now.

AND, ironically, the truck I'm borrowing this week to get to school now won't turn over...

kev79350

you check the coil

kev79350

sounds like it might be the fuel opening relay under the dash

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Obviously I commented in red, .... but I would also check the easiest things, like ECU plugs not all the way in, shorts in the wiring from the harness to dizzy/coil-ignitor pack, etc., as well. You pulled the ECU, so I'm sure you checked that as you were in there/reinstalling it.... Just make sure, ya know?

I see the last person mentioned what I think he was meaning as "Circuit Open Relay".... I believe Mitch checked/verified that, already. (??)

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Did you burb the system well? Not sure if you answered me on that one..... ???

stickmanmitch

yup checked the COR.

I adjusted the TPS at the ecu by plugging the multimeter into the IDL and E2 port, so when it's closed there's 0 volts and open battery voltage. I put a .8mm feeler gauge in and moved the TPS until it hit open voltage, and verified taking the feeler back out it went down to 0. I read it on 4crawler. I never thought about taking the throttle body off.

When the wiring harness got hooked back up it was put in the wrong way (you can see in that picture) and there's a pinched bundle. I'm thinking something is shorting out in there. I didn't get a chance to go back out and look at that today though.

Kev I checked the coil, I swapped it out with another coil and distributor and it didn't make any difference.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Cool, thanx for the update, Mitch

I see what you're saying now, lol.(laughing at myself right there<<<< lhahahaha.....) .... Anyway, yes, it's good to test it at the ECU, but the initial testing of the TPS is done without the thing even plugged in, ....so, that's all I was saying, initially.... and yep, I didn't think about removing the throttle body either, lol. My buddy stopped by and said, "Just take it off"... couple years ago. Since then, I have the allen bolts....they make it CAKE!

So, you had/have a kinked section of the harness? that can be really telling, especially if it's at the "Horseshoe"(the section where it bends just like a "U" before it goes up and splits into 'MULTI' and then through the plenum, etc. That, from what I've been told, is where the "Y" connections are for the 'Pairs' of injector wires that split into 2's. HOWEVER, ...... I would think it'd be lean, but what do I know? lol. Usually, that causes you to only run on 2..... That COULD explain some popping, etc., maybee, ....but I would think it would more so 'run like it's running on 2', like having 2 plugs fouled out, ya know? However, 2, lol.... it could be intermittent, so yeah, why not check.

I can't wait for you to figure this out... I HATE it for ya, Mitch, SUX!

Far as the 'black' connector.... Only one I have around there is the AC/VSV and the CSInjector....and the AC/VSV isn't even close to the same kind of connector as the CSI and CSI-Time Switch. Don't think the knock sensor..... Nope, pretty sure that's a yellow connector, might be black, but it's also round with fins.

Did you make sure your IACV has a connector on it in back? (It's not supposed to be black, I believe it's Green... just curious.... It wouldn't cause all this, but it is good to have it 'working' when you get this thing all tucked up )

Sorry, I'm all over the place, hahaha... Just running in and out over the last 1/2 hour, typing when I can.

Best wishes, Mitch!

igotit

i read a good bit of this thread.....reminded me of my old 81 350 elcamino.
blown 3.8....dropped in a fresh overhauled 350 with 400 hp.
my dad done the plug wire install/firing order for me while i was at work,i never checked it.upon start up and for a few mths,id get popping and slow acceleration,poor performance.
ive checked tdc a few times,plugs,carb rebuild....ect.
eventually i checked the firing order 6 mths later.
turned out 5 and 7 wires were swapped,after i ran her for mths like that,i put the firing orde right.
ran better,but still had that pop,sluggish performance.
turned out i stretched the timming chain,which also twisted the cam.
all resulted from 2 cylinders swapped.
i hope thats not your case....your thread reminded me of that.

stickmanmitch

Dang. I hope not too. I'm cutting open the wiring harness tomorrow and re-routing everything correctly. If that doesn't fix it I'm taking it in to someone who hopefully knows more than I do.